Supper at the Shang: Kettle + Spatzle
Returning home after a year away, it was an exhilarating feeling to see the Philippine food scene more vibrant than ever. Even with the influx of several foreign-based brands, it is indeed an encouraging observation that our home-grown food joints are keeping up with them toe-to-toe.
At the center of this food rebirth are so-called lifestyle malls, sections of our well-loved stores devoted to more upscale fashion and food. At the brand spanking new wing of Shangri-La Plaza along EDSA, the gustatory options are limitless.
All dolled up for Christmas.
Making waves in these shiny hallways for over a year already is the locally based restaurant, Kettle. Earning enormous praise from both the ordinary hungry crowd and high-standard foodies, Kettle was perhaps one of the most talked about (and most Instagrammed) food find. We finally had the chance to indulge in their comfort food offerings.
The menu book was rustic, printed on brown paper and devoid of any images. Still, we came here well-informed and ready, with our goal to sample their now legendary Buttermilk Fried Chicken and the Potato Strips.
Now that's what I call Bucket Fries!
The missus was very euphoric in picking the Pork and Potato Strips. When it arrived, I was shocked! I never knew it was this humongous. If there was such a thing as bucket fries (as compared to bucket fried chicken), this was it. An imposing tower of crispy potato strips rested on a bed of crunchy pork belly cubes, the latter resting on, you guessed it, another bed of fries!
Pork and Potato Strips, PHP 339 (+5% service charge)
At first bite, the potato strips reminded me of our favorite snack, Pik-Nik. But this was embellished with a sprinkling of cheese, and a drizzle of truffle oil whose saltiness was the key to this dish. The fries were crisp all the way, there wasn't a single strip that was soggy.
The challenge was how to consume this thing without scattering it all over the table. Remarkably, we were able to reach the bed of pork belly, a fitting reward for our effort. The pork was deep fried to a crisp, reminiscent of chicharon belly commonly seen in some local pansit. The dish would have been a perfect match for beer and chippy conversation. We couldn't finish the entire tower, but surprisingly, a day later, the fries were still as crisp as new. Although a bit pricey for an appetizer, the serving size was good for at least 4 people.
Buttermilk Fried Chicken, PHP 519 (+5% service charge)
I was giddy with anticipation as the Buttermilk Fried Chicken was set on our table. Two huge cuts of chicken deep fried to perfection teased us with their aroma. On the side were three piece of cornbread, and two dips, the usual gravy and uniquely, Cajun honey.
The skin was perfect - crisp and crunchy in all parts. But noticeably, the cajun rub added too much saltiness. Thankfully, the gravy and honey mix doused some of the salinity. The meat within was tender and oozing with juices as I poked through it. But the flavor seemed a bit lacking, as every bite needed a dip on the gravy. Come to think of it, I've had more flavorful Southern-style fried chicken at Popeye's back in SG. Was I missing something here, or did I set my standard too high because of the hype for this dish?
In fact, the saltiness became too overwhelming after successive bites. I couldn't finish even just one piece. (Or maybe I was too full with the Potato Strips.) The cornbread was soft but a tad dry, but a little drizzle of honey made up for it. I still long for the original Corn Muffins from Kenny Roger's back when it first opened. Kettle's version nearly duplicated it but not quite yet. My bubble of eagerness was thus rudely burst by a bit of a disappointment with this dish.
Truffle Gorgonzola, PHP 289 (+5% service charge)
In an interesting twist (pun intended), the pasta dish was the saving grace for the night. As the Truffle Gorgonzola was laid on top of our table, the pungent smell of cheese emanated robustly. It was a clear sign that this was really good cheese.
The spaghetti was cooked impeccably al dente. The truffle cream and parmesan cheese were harmonious together, cloying at our palate with just the right saltiness and zest. My only gripe was they scrimped on the sauce a bit, as it soon dried up easily and nearly coagulated in between the pasta.
Despite that, I thoroughly enjoyed this pasta dish. And that says a lot, since I am not really fond of a lot of noodle dishes.
Peach Iced Tea, Carafe, PHP 149 (+5% service charge)
The carafe of Peach Iced Tea was more than enough to douse the strong flavors of the food. Refreshing, but a little too sweet, the peach flavor was homey and instantly brings thoughts of garden picnics and such.
Our Kettle experience was quite revealing. Their flagship dish failed to impress me, as it isn't something that I'll be coming back and craving for. But, interestingly, the pasta and the potato strips were spot on. Perhaps there is indeed more to Kettle than just the overly-hyped and attention-grabbing buttermilk fried chicken.
After a filling meal, we decided to grab dessert some place else. Walking around the new wing, we spotted an enticing photograph of this cake.
The four layers of heaven.
It was enough to hook us and reel us in. Spatzle Euro Market Cafe served European dishes in a very quirky and rustic atmosphere. I liked the look and feel of their spot more than Kettle's.
The other menu items seemed interesting and worth a return ticket. But for now, the Frozen Brazo de Mercedes was the centerpiece.
Frozen Brazo de Mercedes, PHP 220 (+5% service charge)
A hefty slice of four layers of heaven, this cake was stupendous. I have always liked the usual Brazo, but freezing it and adding a base of Graham did wonders. It was a journey of flavors as you slice into it vertically. The upper-most layer was sweet and toasted, followed by an airy and fluffy texture. The tongue is then spirited away by the soft creamy center, and then boldly brought back down to earth by the firmer lower layer of luscious cream and the nutty crust of Graham.
It was divinity in a cube, magic in four layers. Definitely worth the calories and the price tag. I'm looking forward to trying out their other dishes next time.
Our sojourn at the Shang was a memorable moment. Clearly, one night is not enough to sample all the other establishments along its bright hallways. Main players such as Kettle are certain to draw the crowd because of its mainstream and social media exposure, but lesser known Spatzle is keen to carve a niche of its own.
Jones
Kettle
Shangri-La Plaza Mall
5th Floor, East Wing
Shaw Boulevard, Wack-Wack
Mandaluyong City
Spatzle Euro Market Cafe
Shangri-La Plaza Mall
5th Floor, East Wing
Shaw Boulevard, Wack-Wack
Mandaluyong City
Written by Jones
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