Kenji Tei: Revisited, Redeemed

Some restaurants are just hard to forget, especially when they are close to your heart.  Never mind the change in venue, never mind the escalation of prices, never mind the tweaking of the menu.  When you know the food is still good, it's difficult to resist the temptation to pay them another visit.

Despite my previous rants about Kenji Tei (see here) and its inevitable changes, the mere knowledge at the back of my mind that they still serve one of the best Japanese comfort food is enough to entice me to choose Kenji Tei for a quick lunch at a snap of a finger.  Especially when it's past lunch time and my stomach had been grumbling for more than an hour.  The mere sight of their white and red signage was enough to raise my white flag of surrender.  Images of tempura soon wallow in my mind.

I missed you.

Kenji Tei has found a home on its lofty perch in Greenbelt 5, going toe to toe with the other classy restaurants here.  Easily fully occupied during any lunch or dinner time on any given day, its move to a high-end mall has done it wonders.  With a chic interior, a nice view of the Greenbelt garden below, and hip vibe, Kenji Tei is one of the sought after ramen places in town.  However, I still miss its homey feel that it used to exude back when it was cozily located in BF.

A happier home.

Still wary of the deconstruction of their Gyudon, I chose to avoid ordering it so as not to disappoint my day.  Instead, I wanted to sample my previous favorites which I raved about before, even with the current heftier price tags.  I wanted to see if they maintained the quality and taste of their best-sellers, enough to bring back my happy memories of the better days of Kenji Tei.

Cheese Gyoza, P198 (+10% service charge)

Always a fire starter, the Cheese Gyoza is the best way to jump start your lunch.  Some like their gyoza lightly fried with some parts of the skin soft.  But Kenji Tei does it differently, and has always done so consistently since its BF days.  The gyoza is perfectly deep fried to a crisp, yet retaining its internal softness once you bite into it.  Fully stuffed with pork meat blended with divine cheese, the mixture is magical.  Addictive in every bite, the spicy mayo dip amps up the explosion of taste dancing around on your tongue.  Perfect either as stand alone or a companion to your rice or ramen, the cheese gyoza is a best seller as evidenced by the fact that this was the last order left for that day.  Lucky us!

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki, P228 (+10% service charge)

One of the best things to ever happen to chicken, Kenji Tei delivers a unique twist to an old-time favorite.  With each bite, I distinctly remember my first moment with this inventive creation.  Only one other crispy chicken teriyaki could stand up to Kenji Tei (the Little Rio version).  Each morsel consists of a thin crispy chicken skin enveloping the succulent and tender meat within.  But the fun doesn't end there.  The teriyaki sauce is a merry mix of sweet and salty, necessitating a cup of rice as the perfect partner.  Best consumed immediately, it's comforting to realize that the quality of this dish has been maintained immaculately.

Gohan, P68 (+10% service charge)

Of course, a Japanese meal will never be complete without a serving of tempura.  My fondest memory of Kenji Tei was back then when we were served one of the largest prawn tempura I had ever seen.  My eyes popped out of their sockets.  And so, here I was again waiting anxiously for our order of tempura, hoping it would not disappoint.

Ebi Tempura (5 pcs), P368 (+10% service charge)

At first glance, it was a sight to behold.  Each piece seemed large, but the breading was flowery and could have been an illusion.  The coating was crunchy and adequate, neither too thin nor too thick.  Sadly though, the prawns within were ordinarily sized.  These paled in comparison to those I previously had in other joints, and even during Kenji Tei's better days.  Nevertheless, the prawns were fresh and sweet, juicy and tender with each bite.  The bigger letdown however was the price tag.  I used to enjoy their tempura for just under 300 bucks for the 5 piece set.  Now I still believe it's overpriced at more than 300 pesos for these normal sized prawns.  For the same price tag I could grab a 5 piece set with humongous black tiger prawns at another shop.  Still, Kenji Tei remains commendable for preserving the quality of its tempura despite upping the prices.

My revisit at Kenji Tei was reassuring and redeeming.  Their best sellers retained their charm and addictive taste, keeping hungry diners hooked up for more.  On the other hand, my other personal favorites (gyudon and tempura) have fallen a notch lower, compounded by an increase in prices.  But there's just something about restaurants such as these that keep you coming back.  Maybe it's the magic of first love, or the fondness of my memories.  One thing for sure though, is that whenever I would be in Greenbelt, Kenji Tei should be the easiest choice for my Japanese quick fix.

Jones

Kenji Tei Ramen House

3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5

Legazpi Street, Legazpi Village

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

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Keepin' Up with Mr. Jones

I love old school American diners.  You know, the ones commonly portrayed in movies, like old truck stops out west.  I love gloating over heaping servings of sloppy pancakes, bundles of greasy fries, and charred oily steaks.  It's virtually the American version of our very own turu-turo or carinderia. 

A handful of restaurants here have imbibed that theme, hoping to replicate the charm of the old American diner.  But it's not always about the vibe and the aura.  The food has to be outstanding too.  Being one of the pioneers, Mr. Jones has successfully transcended this theme and transformed its menu into a unique selection.

If my memory serves me right, Mr. Jones was one of the first restaurants to open along the garden side of Greenbelt 5 when it first opened a few years ago.  With its screaming red pastel signages and couches and bright orange lights, it clearly stood out among the dimly lit resto-bars neighboring it.  It seemed that Mr. Jones would not fit in.  Years later, the restaurant expands by acquiring the adjacent area (which used to be a Japanese restaurant) and showed its neighbors that it is there to stay.  With its distinct and wide-ranging menu, a preppy waiting staff, and an overall cheery vibe, Mr. Jones has gained the respect and admiration of foodies and hungry mall-goers.

What better way for Dr. Jones to celebrate the birthday than to enjoy it at his namesakes'?  I gathered the family and my girl for a hearty lunch.  My mom, by the way, shares the same curiosity about American diners.  So Mr. Jones was the definite choice.  

Like a 50s comic strip, the menu book was blooming with colors

We picked a breezy spot al fresco, settling down on those deep red couches in faithful reproduction of those seen in real diners.  Our server then handed us these colorful menu books, alluding to the smashing bygone era of the 50s and 60s.  The restaurant itself was in concert with the pervading theme, replete with mementos of the colorful past: a jukebox, tall silver bar stools, even that football table game watchamacallit.

I could almost see Marty McFly ordering by the counter

My girl and I had been to Mr. Jones when it was barely a year old.  So I had an idea what to pick on the menu.  To my delightful surprise, they had added several more items, a testament to Mr. Jones' innovation and creativity.

Big Smackin' Slow Roasted Southern US Beef Ribs, P620 (+10% service charge)

For a name this long, I expected really huge ribs.  And it did not disappoint.  I'm a sucker for barbecued ribs, and just reading the description on the menu made me drool.  Looking at my plate, I had to scoop up my excess drool!  There were three large slabs of ribs, perfectly glazed and grilled to a charred covering.  I had hoped the spice level was at par with that of Racks', but sadly, it was not so.  I added a dash of Tabasco just to perk it up.  The meat, however, was definitely at par.  Tender and falling off, the beef was succulent and moist, cooked to a medium.  The barbecue glaze was sweet and tangy, and images of Man Vs. Food swept through my mind the instant I took my first bite.  "This is my private moment", as Adam Richman would say.  The fries were pure potatoes, dressed in a thin crunchy breading.  A sliced pickle was added in the mix, but I abhorred pickles so I left it untouched.

Uncle Andy's Cheesesteak, P365 (+10% service charge)

Mr. Jones also serves hefty sandwiches that are a meal in itself.  In a twist of the Philly cheesesteak, Uncle Andy's version consisted of US ribeye meat draped in liberal amounts of Cheese Whiz.  The meat was tender and soft, while the cheese complimented the peppery flavor.  All these were erupting from within a sliced soft smooth bun.  Strips of bell pepper added variegating colors, while the side of coleslaw and those luscious and addicting fries seals the deal.  An easy choice for those raring to cut down on some carbs.

Big Mama's Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf, P450 (+10% service charge)

Mom knows best, so she went for the Big Mama's Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf.  She said she loved meatloafs, so this was an easy choice.  The loaf itself was filled with chorizo, but the meat was a bit tough.  The bacon was crisp but barely wrapped the whole thing.  Served with a fried sunny-side up egg and some baby carrots and string beans, the meal was completed by a potato puree.  The veggies were crisp and fresh, while the potato puree was nothing spectacular.  The tomato gravy had a queer taste and texture, and did nothing to improve the toughness of the meatloaf.  It was a bit of a letdown.

Char-Grilled "Greek Style" Norwegian Salmon Steak, P450 (+10% service charge)

Dad of course went for the fish on the menu.  A large slice of grilled fresh pink salmon garnished with onions and bell peppers, lay on top of a heaping serving of rice pilaf.  There were baby carrots and string beans to complete the cast.  I didn't get to taste this but he finished it off in no time.  So I'm guessing it was that good.

Wicked Truffled Mac n' Cheese, P395 (+10% service charge)

We were craving for Mr. Jones' renowned Mac N' Cheese, and I wanted Mom to try it out.  And it was indeed wicked.  The macaroni was oozing with gooey cheese of supposedly 4 types, but my palate was not sophisticated enough to distinguish each.  Nevertheless, all four masterfully blended into a single satisfying taste, dishing out that homey flavor.  Sprinklings of smoked bacon, portobello mushrooms, and green peas contributed a contrast in texture and flavor, breaking the strong flavor of the cheese.  In my honest and humble opinion, this is the best macaroni and cheese ever.  I mean it.  Posers just put cheese on top of their mac.  Mr. Jones, in stark contrast, seems to have cooked the macaroni IN cheese.  Maybe they should rename it that way.  Or the other way around, like cheese n' macaroni.  Either way, this was absolutely, well, WICKED.

With its new menu, Mr. Jones is poised to dominate the diner theme.  Browsing through its selection, none of it is boring nor repetitive.  In addition, in keeping with the times, Mr. Jones also serves breakfast all day.  I would love to go back and try that out, along with their milkshakes, if I'm no longer cutting back on calories.  Although the prices seem expensive, the serving sizes more than made up for it.  Neither did they scrimp on that cheese.  A few complaints though, with the menu books probably needing a few pictures just to show how which dishes look really good (Although I think they remained true to the diner feel.  No diner would have pictures of their food anyway).  Also, service that day was rather slow, especially with our group seated outside.  (The window panels were so big, yet they couldn't see us waving our hands several times).  Notwithstanding, the overall experience is worthwhile, complete with that 50s diner aura.  Other joints attempting to replicate that diner feel may have fallen short of perhaps the new standard and measure of success, Mr. Jones.

Will the real Mr. Jones please stand up?

Mr. Jones

Greenbelt 5

Legaspi Street, Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/raintreemrjones

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Of Better Days: Kenji Tei Ramen House

A long long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away... There was once a small Japanese noodle house hidden among the countless establishments along Aguirre Avenue in BF Homes.  Quiet and unassuming, it had its loyal followers who almost swore to death in secrecy, never to divulge this wonderful paradise.  Well, for that matter, I had that kind of mentality anyway. And so, these photos of a by-gone era sat on my desktop folder for more than a year.  Until finally the secret was no more, with Kenji Tei moving on to greener pastures and expanding its horizons.

Sadly, some die-hard fans, like me, felt abandoned and betrayed.  You see, there was a time when Kenji Tei was that hole-in-the-wall, budget-friendly, neighborhood Japanese restaurant, an escape from the tasteless commercialism of other joints.  Let me muse about its long gone age of glory.

Back then, Kenji Tei was really cramped: it could only comfortably sit around 15 people. But it was cozy, with tall glass panes and bright lights.  Its facade was tempting and inviting.  Its interior was simple, and the food was the star.  

The menu was simple. Better yet, affordable.

On any usual visit at a Japanese restaurant, I always order my beloved favorite, the sacred dish, the beef Gyudon.  We then ordered a slew of other tasty treats.

Gyudon, (then around P200-225; now P296)

The gyudon was simply one of the best I have ever tasted.  And that says a lot.  The bowl was nearly filled to the brim.  Each slice of beef was tender and succulent, with just the right amount of fat to tease the palate and not hurt your arteries.  The radish and sliced onion did more than garnish, it balanced the sweet, salty taste of the sauce with its touch of spice and zest.  There were a few traces of shitake in the mix, but I would have preferred more.  Glaringly lacking however was the raw egg, but I believe I could have ordered it to be added. But the presentation was absolutely gorgeous that the raw egg couldn't add any more superlatives to this dish.  It was a sight to behold.

Flash forward to a more recent visit at Kenji Tei's newer location in Greenbelt 5.  Amidst the beauty and grandeur of their newer branch, I expected my order of gyudon to deliver.  Not just in the presentation, but of course in the taste.  To my utter disappointment, here is what welcomed me back:

Who put ants on my bowl of rice?

The sacred gyudon: dismantled and dismembered

It doesn't take a food genius to choose which version of the gyudon looked more inviting.  And it's not even my camera.  It was outright sacrilege to dismantle the gyudon this way.  I have never encountered such a travesty!  In my purist opinion, the gyudon is supposed to be eaten all together in one bowl, the sauce draping the wonderful white rice; the beef dripping its flavor onto the wholeness of the dish.  Not in this defiling way.  My sacred gyudon reduced to the level of what appears to be a hot plate.  All this with a hefty price increase, further adding insult to injury.  

Back to the past.  Kenji Tei dished out one of its best-sellers, and still is. The spicy cheese gyoza.  A small package packing a lot of punch.

Cheese Gyoza, (then P100-120, now P198)

Each piece was generously packed with ground pork and lovely cheese.  The spicy mayo dip was the perfect partner to this mouth-watering appetizer.  A meal in itself, I used to see some people ordering just this to-go.  A testament to this fabulous creation.  What was once a steal at just above a hundred bucks, is now overpriced at almost twice that.  I would still order this of course.  That's how good it is.

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki (then around P180-200, now P228)

Another sublime dish, the Crispy Chicken Teriyaki was a sure winner.  The teriyaki sauce embraced each piece of chicken fried to a juicy crisp.  The sauce was perfect, not too sweet, with a hint of salt.  There was once a time when BF Homes was the home of the crispy chicken teriyaki, with Little Rio's own creation ruling the west, and Kenji Tei's masterpiece lording over the east.  But that was a golden age long gone.  I haven't tried out the teriyaki again, but I fervently hope that it would still be its old self: pure bliss.

Ebi Tempura, 5 pcs. (then P220-250, now P368!)

Perhaps, one of the bigger (pun intended) reasons why I chose not to divulge this previous secret was Kenji Tei's stunning serving of the Ebi Tempura.  Each large piece of tiger prawn was lightly but lovingly dressed in the crunchy tempura batter, enticing one to immediately partake of this dish.  And when I say large, I mean REALLY large.  This was one of the biggest servings of tempura I have ever encountered, if not the biggest.  And it's not just the breading.  The shrimp was huge and fresh and succulent.  As I had my first bite, I vowed selfishly never to share this secret.  

But Kenji Tei was destined to leave its comfortable nook for the greener pastures of the Ayala malls, the first in Greenbelt 5 and the other in ATC.  And with its transfer was the inevitable escalation of prices.  (Notice that I quoted the previous prices in range, I could only roughly remember the actual previous ones.  But I'm pretty sure the prices increased by at least P50-P60 per dish).  Of course, its newly baptized followers would never complain about the price increase.  But to those who worshiped Kenji Tei in its infancy, it was sheer betrayal. What used to be an affordable Japanese indulgence was now a proud superstar.  Don't get me wrong, I still love Kenji Tei, despite its violation of my sacred gyudon.  But with its heftier price tags, its disappointing transformation of the gyudon, and now longer queues, I sadly might search for another.  One that will stand for what Kenji Tei used to deliver among the BF homies.

Feel free to chastise me for my bitter critique of Kenji Tei.  But this is the sad truth of establishments going for bigger markets.  I love Kenji Tei, and will forever be loyal to it.  Ramen enthusiasts heap praises on its new branches (I am not a ramen fan), and I believe it should be one of the best ramen houses.  But, I still hope Kenji Tei will not forget its other masterpieces, the gyudon, for one, and the chicken teriyaki, the other.  Here's hoping that someday, prices would be more reasonable (if not back to previous levels), and that Kenji Tei will return to its days of legendary lore.  For those loyal fans.

Kenji Tei Ramen House

Now with two branches:

3rd Level, Greenbelt 5 AND Alabang Town Center (near the cinemas)

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

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In Search of the Perfect Gyudon: Something New

Tucked auspiciously somewhere inside the sparkling new Greenbelt 5 is the home of a unique take on the sacred bowl... John and Yoko Cosmopolitan Japanese Restaurant  is one of the hits of the urban chow crowd, and don't be fooled by its chic interior and fashionistic appeal: its version of the gyudon is simple, yet authentic.

One look at the bowl before you even bite will really strike you: the garnishing are thoughtfully arranged: mushrooms lying side by side, the glistening yolk in the middle surrounded by piping hot beef strips  and showered by green onions... And that's just the visual treat... Indulge yourself  as you take a slow, sumptuous bite, and what stands out is the sweetness of their dish!  It's quite  a refreshing twist to sweeten up the beef bowl, and indeed adds a sort of adventure to someone in search of the perfect gyudon... 

The rice portions are more than enough (for the first time ever, I failed to finish my rice, I don't know if I was quite full already before I ate or the beef strips are really quite heavy), the shitake seems juicier, and the beef was exquisite... The twist on the taste nets this beef bowl a five-star rating, and throw in the fact that its just under P250, add a little cosmopolitan chic feel, and you have one great adventure... Really something bold and new!

Gyudon Beef Bowl

P228 per serving

John and Yoko Cosmopolitan Japanese Restaurant

Greenbelt 5, Makati City

Rating: 5 stars!!!

(originally post on January 18,2009 in http://volvox23.multiply.com/reviews/item/8)

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