Kenji Tei: Revisited, Redeemed

Some restaurants are just hard to forget, especially when they are close to your heart.  Never mind the change in venue, never mind the escalation of prices, never mind the tweaking of the menu.  When you know the food is still good, it's difficult to resist the temptation to pay them another visit.

Despite my previous rants about Kenji Tei (see here) and its inevitable changes, the mere knowledge at the back of my mind that they still serve one of the best Japanese comfort food is enough to entice me to choose Kenji Tei for a quick lunch at a snap of a finger.  Especially when it's past lunch time and my stomach had been grumbling for more than an hour.  The mere sight of their white and red signage was enough to raise my white flag of surrender.  Images of tempura soon wallow in my mind.

I missed you.

Kenji Tei has found a home on its lofty perch in Greenbelt 5, going toe to toe with the other classy restaurants here.  Easily fully occupied during any lunch or dinner time on any given day, its move to a high-end mall has done it wonders.  With a chic interior, a nice view of the Greenbelt garden below, and hip vibe, Kenji Tei is one of the sought after ramen places in town.  However, I still miss its homey feel that it used to exude back when it was cozily located in BF.

A happier home.

Still wary of the deconstruction of their Gyudon, I chose to avoid ordering it so as not to disappoint my day.  Instead, I wanted to sample my previous favorites which I raved about before, even with the current heftier price tags.  I wanted to see if they maintained the quality and taste of their best-sellers, enough to bring back my happy memories of the better days of Kenji Tei.

Cheese Gyoza, P198 (+10% service charge)

Always a fire starter, the Cheese Gyoza is the best way to jump start your lunch.  Some like their gyoza lightly fried with some parts of the skin soft.  But Kenji Tei does it differently, and has always done so consistently since its BF days.  The gyoza is perfectly deep fried to a crisp, yet retaining its internal softness once you bite into it.  Fully stuffed with pork meat blended with divine cheese, the mixture is magical.  Addictive in every bite, the spicy mayo dip amps up the explosion of taste dancing around on your tongue.  Perfect either as stand alone or a companion to your rice or ramen, the cheese gyoza is a best seller as evidenced by the fact that this was the last order left for that day.  Lucky us!

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki, P228 (+10% service charge)

One of the best things to ever happen to chicken, Kenji Tei delivers a unique twist to an old-time favorite.  With each bite, I distinctly remember my first moment with this inventive creation.  Only one other crispy chicken teriyaki could stand up to Kenji Tei (the Little Rio version).  Each morsel consists of a thin crispy chicken skin enveloping the succulent and tender meat within.  But the fun doesn't end there.  The teriyaki sauce is a merry mix of sweet and salty, necessitating a cup of rice as the perfect partner.  Best consumed immediately, it's comforting to realize that the quality of this dish has been maintained immaculately.

Gohan, P68 (+10% service charge)

Of course, a Japanese meal will never be complete without a serving of tempura.  My fondest memory of Kenji Tei was back then when we were served one of the largest prawn tempura I had ever seen.  My eyes popped out of their sockets.  And so, here I was again waiting anxiously for our order of tempura, hoping it would not disappoint.

Ebi Tempura (5 pcs), P368 (+10% service charge)

At first glance, it was a sight to behold.  Each piece seemed large, but the breading was flowery and could have been an illusion.  The coating was crunchy and adequate, neither too thin nor too thick.  Sadly though, the prawns within were ordinarily sized.  These paled in comparison to those I previously had in other joints, and even during Kenji Tei's better days.  Nevertheless, the prawns were fresh and sweet, juicy and tender with each bite.  The bigger letdown however was the price tag.  I used to enjoy their tempura for just under 300 bucks for the 5 piece set.  Now I still believe it's overpriced at more than 300 pesos for these normal sized prawns.  For the same price tag I could grab a 5 piece set with humongous black tiger prawns at another shop.  Still, Kenji Tei remains commendable for preserving the quality of its tempura despite upping the prices.

My revisit at Kenji Tei was reassuring and redeeming.  Their best sellers retained their charm and addictive taste, keeping hungry diners hooked up for more.  On the other hand, my other personal favorites (gyudon and tempura) have fallen a notch lower, compounded by an increase in prices.  But there's just something about restaurants such as these that keep you coming back.  Maybe it's the magic of first love, or the fondness of my memories.  One thing for sure though, is that whenever I would be in Greenbelt, Kenji Tei should be the easiest choice for my Japanese quick fix.

Jones

Kenji Tei Ramen House

3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5

Legazpi Street, Legazpi Village

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

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The Hidden Gem: Yaku

There are a number of reasons why some restaurants remain relatively unknown.  For some, it is by choice, to perpetuate the public's curiosity and add an adventurous charm.  For others, it's just a bad location.  In the case of Yaku, it's a mix of both.

Remaining in the business for ten years now, it is remarkable how Yaku has kept itself under the radar of both foodies and the common hungry diner.  With nary an advertisement to make itself prominent, it still has maintained a loyal following.  Blame it on Feng Shui, some would say, since the first thing you notice as you finally discover where it is on the third floor, is that large silver column obscuring its facade.  It supposedly blocks the good vibes and blessings.  Blame it on the building: nobody goes to Podium to stay there for even an hour.  People just pass through going to Megamall.  At least I do.  Or blame it on the name: one wrong letter on Google Search and you end up browsing a katsu place instead.  A very famous one too.  Heck, even the word "yaku" in the bastardized vernacular means "don't want".  Go figure.

Whether by intent or by accident, Yaku has managed to instill an air of interest, a worthy reputation by word of mouth.  And I finally got to see for myself.

Indeed, Yaku is difficult to spot for those who aren't actually looking for it.  Sandwiched by a Chinese restaurant and a toy store, the tall silver column conceals its entrance.  Only a lonely menu card out front gives any indication that you're at the right place.  Inside though, is a totally different matter.  The place exudes a peaceful vibe, blending  rough stone fixtures and modern lighting into an indoor Zen garden.  In fact, Yaku's spot is envious.  The glass window panels provides ample view of the tall buidlings of Ortigas and the busy streets below, like a swanky hotel fine dine.

Concrete slabs and panels and a few bamboo shoots decorate this indoor Zen garden.

Tradition meets modern with its simple lighting on a bare ceiling background.

For the uninformed, Yaku started out as a dedicated yakitori grilling spot, hence its name.  Through the years though, clamor for a wider Japanese menu led to its expansion.  And the rest is history.  We were not too crazy for yakitori types, but we were here to sample their Japanese offerings overall.  The menu book was tattered and torn, another encouraging sign that this was  a frequented place.  After picking our orders, we could not help but notice their unique call buttons for the wait staff.  An ingenious method, a definite indication of good service.

Press button for tempura.  Now that's a button I'd love.

Straightforward menu, easy to choose, easy to love.

Can I have a cup of rice with this?

It would be a travesty not to sample their grilled specialties.  But we wanted room for a lot more, so we picked just one.  And it was the perfect choice.

Kawa, P69 (+10% service charge)

Three sticks of chicken skin perfectly grilled to a light crisp, the Kawa was sinfully addicting.  Each piece was crunchy like chicharon, yet with a hint of a typical fatty and smokey grilled taste.  A testament how Yaku has perfected its grilling technique and thus made its name as a grilling station.

Aspara Bacon, P109 (+10% service charge)

Another grilled favorite, the Aspara Bacon was a sure-fire hit.  These asparagus stalks were lightly charred and drizzled with a special marinade, wrapped lovingly in strips of heavenly bacon.  There was the familiar smokey taste, even penetrating the usually resistant asparagus.  The bacon was savory and chewy but not tough.  Still, the stalks looked thin and shabby, and I've tried stouter ones in other places.  Nevertheless, the grilled taste is so distinct and prominent that I have to coin the term, "the Yaku taste" in all my blog posts from here on.

Spicy Shake Maki, P145 (+10% service charge)

Yaku also offers a collection of maki and sushi / sashimi, to round up the Japanese menu.  But don't get too excited though.  The Spicy Shake (Salmon) Maki consisted of 6 rolls of fresh pink salmon showered in spices.  The rolls were flavorful and filling, but there was nothing spectacular in both taste and presentation.  A bit ho-hum but still a good choice for those craving for rolls.  I wonder if their other maki selections were as ordinary as this.  

Gyudon, P199 (+10% service charge)

I couldn't pass up on the Gyudon, my ultimate comfort food.  The Yaku version was simple yet savory.  Each slice of beef was tender and juicy, although a bit on the leaner side. I usually preferred slices that had a sliver of fat or tendon.  Curiously, the beef also had a hint of the Yaku grill taste, which was a good perk-up.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, neither too sweet nor salty.  The onion slices offered a contrast in texture and a hint of zest.  Missing in action though were the shitake mushrooms that would have added a bolder quality to the dish.  A serving of fresh egg yolk though made my day, since I missed mixing up the whole concoction into glutinous chunks of meat and rice.  Happily, the serving was just right for a very reasonable price, in fact, one of the most affordable yet better tasting Gyudon in the metro.  

Chicken Teriyaki, P189 (+10% service charge)

A staple of any Japanese meal, the Chicken Teriyaki was sweet and succulent.  Each slice was tender and superbly grilled with hints of charred skin.  Yet again, the Yaku grill taste was bursting forth in each bite.  Although I have tried more adventurous and bold versions of this classic, this version stayed true to its familiar taste.  Nothing really extraordinary but good and filing nonetheless.  And a steal at less than 200 bucks.

Beef Yakiniku, P215 (+10% service charge)

As if we didn't have enough of grilled dishes yet, we still picked yet another one.  The Beef Yakiniku was similarly grilled impeccably, again exuding that now familiar smokey taste.  Each morsel was  tender and easy to chew, although it was not typical of the cubed slices of other yakiniku joints.  The taste was almost similar to my Gyudon, and ordering this might have been redundant.  Still, for meat lovers, the Beef Yakiniku is an easy pick.

Ebi Tempura, P249 (+10% service charge)

Rounding up our Japanese feast of course is the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura.  These amazing prawns were huge and plump, lovingly covered in a thin crispy and crunchy breading.  I love tempura breading that bursts like a flowery and spiky explosion, as it often heralds a delicious secret within.  And that's exactly what it is here at Yaku.  The prawns are big and fat, juicy and sweet, as if oozing with the flavors of the sea.  Four pieces for roughly 250 bucks?  It's definitely a steal, a well-kept secret.  I now have another Ebi Tempura ranked up there with the likes of Jozu-Kin.

Another happy customer.

Yaku has stood the test of time.  It has proven that you don't always need a good location to reap the rewards.  You don't even need to advertise or promote a lot just to attract hungry customers.  All it takes is good food, fresh ingredients, and heartwarming service.  Despite some of their offerings just bordering on average, nonetheless the grilled dishes are critically acclaimed, and the tempura one of the best.  A hidden gem in a posh mall, Yaku seems blithe in its rightful podium among its more well-known competitors, remaining oblivious yet consistent in offering great tasting and affordable Japanese food.

Jones

Yaku Japanese Grill

3rd Level, The Podium

ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center

Mandaluyong City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Yaku-japanese-grill/201990269950862

  

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Cure Your Craving: Kuretake

Japanese food is not difficult to love.  It's simple, neat, and flavorful.  The only problem is, there are a lot of posers around the metro, claiming to serve authentic Japanese yet fails miserably in every aspect.  Such a travesty is not only committed by fast food spots, but even the highly fancied restaurants boasting about fusion and their supposed expert chefs.

So, finding a real gem of a Japanese food joint is quite a challenge.  Sometimes, longevity is one helpful clue that this is the right place.  I am often turned off by fancy shops in classy malls, not just because of the price, but mainly for the value-for-money aspect.  Don't get me wrong, I would be willing to spend and shell out a few more bucks if the food was to-die-for.  But if I was only paying for their name, or their classy spot in the mall, I would regret every centavo.  

I was a bit skeptical about Kuretake, a long-time favorite among the high-end society surrounding Rockwell.  But what helped its reputation was its staying power, keeping its almost secluded spot among the other elegant restaurant selections.  Finding Kuretake is an adventure itself.  From inside the mall, it's easy to miss the dimly lit corridor with an inconspicuous sign pointing to its back entrance.  Yes, the front entrance is actually along the circumferential street along the mall.

The gateway to culinary adventures.

Its front door is large and imposing, like the wooden entrances to a Shaolin monastery.  Inside though, the room is bright and vibrant.  The red walls blend perfectly with the wooden finish.  Their space is adequate, comfortably seating large parties, and even extends outside for those preferring al fresco dining.  Like all true Japanese joints, there are seats along the sushi prep tables for a more in-your-face sushi experience created by their sushi sensei.

The cube area is always a favorite spot.

For a more in-your-face sushi experience.

The menu was simple and straightforward, offering the traditional favorites.  No fancy names, no flowery descriptions.  One must have basic knowledge of Japanese food to figure out the selections.  Or maybe just ask their friendly wait staff.  

These small fry are always a good sign that your'e in the right place.

Of course, we were here to sample the staples and all the familiar fare.  We quickly browsed the menu for the common sounding names and placed our orders.

Tuna, P55 (2 pcs.) and Kani Sushi, P40 (2 pcs.)(+10% service charge)

Kuretake is famous for its sushi and sashimi selection, and by far it is one of the most extensive and creative.  We weren't in the mood for gobbling raw seafood that night, but we managed to order a few, just to try it out.  Thankfully, their menu allowed a la carte choices in pairs, so we wouldn't get full immediately.  The tuna sushi tasted fresh and firm, but was nothing spectacular.  The crabstick (kani) was likewise mundane.  Maybe it just wasn't a sushi night for us.

Aspara Bacon, P220 (+10% service charge)

Bacon wrapped asparagus is an all-time favorite.  These crisp asparagus stalks were grilled just right, with the bacon embracing them having just the right chewy texture.  The grilled taste was not overpowering, but still distinct.  A generous serving of mixed greens made sure this was a healthy choice.  

Tori Teriyaki, P260 (+10% service charge)

In my humble opinion, the chicken teriyaki is always the make-or-break dish.  Cook it right, and your joint is okay.  Tweak the taste a bit and get it perfect, your shop will be famous.  Fail miserably, and I'm heading for the exit.  Fortunately, the Tori Teriyaki was spot-on.  The skin was crisp and sweet, although some portions were overdone and charred too much.  The meat however, remained soft and juicy, with the sweetness of the sauce seeping within.  There was nothing new in taste, and no fancy concoction, yet this was still pleasurable to the palate.

Salmon Teppanyaki, P290 (+10% service charge)

Opting to harvest the bounty of the sea, the Salmon Teppanyaki was an easy pick.  I am always critical of any salmon dish.  There's often a fine line between perfecting it and blundering it.  Kuretake, however, did not disappoint with their version.  The salmon fillet was fresh and flaky, the meat pink and wonderful.  There was a hint of grilled taste blending with the teppanyaki sauce, a sparkling mix of sweet and salty.  In addition, the portion was large enough for two hungry people.  This was one of the best I have ever tried.  A steal at less than 300 bucks too.

Ebi Tempura, P450 (+10% service charge)

Another make-or-break dish, the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura is a mainstay of any trip to a Japanese restaurant.  The prawns were satisfyingly large, but still fell short compared to my ultimate favorite, Jozu-Kin.  However, these were impeccably executed, with the breading crisp and thin.  The prawns themselves were fresh and sweet, the succulence exuding with each bite.  Bonus points were rewarded for the little extras, the deep-fried potatoes and eggplants.  However, the eye-popping price was a bit too extravagant, considering I could get more someplace else for even a lesser price tag.

Gyudon, P420 (+10% service charge)

Paying homage to the main reason why I started food blogging, I succumbed to my craving for the divine dish, the sacred beef bowl, the Gyudon.  Dismissing its exorbitant price, I insisted on sampling the Kuretake version.  For that price tag, fortunately the serving was hefty and filling, complete with a bowl of miso soup and pickles to boot.  The beef strips were light and tender, with just the ample hint of fatty goodness.  I forgot to ask the server if they could withhold the noodles, but it was too late.  Overloading on carbs was not my plan that night, yet the noodles were firm and flavorful.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, not too sweet and not too salty.  There was, however, a queer ingredient in the mix.  I couldn't figure out what those large strips of jelly actually were.  In fact, these added too much bulk that I couldn't finish the whole bowl.  Missing in action also was the raw egg, which gives more energy to this dish.  Nevertheless, the beef bowl was classically done.  Now if there was something they could do about that price.

My idea of a happy meal.

It therefore remains no surprise why Kuretake has kept its prime spot in this upscale neighborhood.  There being only two Japanese restaurants in the immediate vicinity (if I counted right), Kuretake is the obvious better choice.  The ambiance is more hip and vibrant, and the food stays true to the traditional Japanese flavor.  The dishes are freshly prepared and perfectly seasoned, never overpowering and neither overwhelming.  The sushi selection deserves another visit from me, as I gather they come up with a few unique inventions occasionally.  The price tags however, may put off some diners.  For the same amount, you could fetch bigger and better dishes in some other place.  On second thought, people who go to Rockwell probably care less.  After all, it's the experience that still matters.

Jones

Kuretake Japanese Restaurant

Ground Level, Power Plant Mall

Rockwell Drive corner Estrella Street 

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kuretake-Philippines/48296751859

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Lost In Translation: Mr. Kurosawa

Combining two good things should produce one great product, right?  Not entirely true.  I'm always skeptical whenever I try a "fusion" restaurant.  Sometimes, too much creativity ruins the idea.  Other times, the marriage of two different cuisines results in one overpowering the other, such that the great flavor of one dissipates altogether.

But then, the essence of fusion is coming up with an entirely unique menu.  So why Mr. Kurosawa serves a familiarly Japanese line-up is beyond me.  Nevertheless, it leaves that part of their cuisine open to scrutiny.

Culture fusion.

Mr. Kurosawa is the brainchild of the same group who brought Sumo Sam.  The latter is a straightforward Japanese joint, but with a few hints of Westernization.  Nevertheless, its modernist approach has won over a lot of fans.  Mr. Kurosawa seeks to take that a notch higher, with higher-end items and a hodge-podge of fusion inventions.

From its outward appearance, Mr. Kurosawa seems like a modern hip resto-bar.  Dimly-lit interiors, neon signage, and sleek fixtures exude an Euro gastro-pub feel.  In fact, the only traces of Nipponese were the pictures of samurai and kabuki dotting the walls.  It was a special night, so the place was packed.  Luckily we grabbed  a cozy nook by the window panels.

At first glance, the only Western pieces that I noticed were the pizza selections and the burger concoctions, and of course the steaks.  We weren't in the mood for that, so we picked the Japanese menu, expecting a tweak in flavor and a twist in taste.  This was supposed to be fusion anyway.

Bacon Asparagus, P289 (+10% service charge)

A staple in most Japanese joints, we started off with the Bacon Asparagus.  I distinctly remember John and Yoko's version which was perfectly executed.  I was expecting the same talent here.  Although the serving size was larger, the dish failed horribly.  The bacon strips were sad and tired and not grilled enough to give a smokey flavor.  Some of the asparagus tops were too old and tough, I couldn't nibble them at all.  Nevertheless, the sauce was just right with a sweet and tangy flavor.  This could have been better.

Raging Tuna, P299 (+10% service charge)

Craving for a spicy kick, it was a tug-of-war between the Raging Tuna and the Dynamite Roll.  Since we've tried a number of versions of Dynamite Roll in other restaurants (I loved Omakase's version), we picked the novel sounding item instead.  How wrong we were.  The Raging Tuna consisted of raw tuna bits on top of a traditional roll, and then drizzled with a tangy sauce.  The rolls itself were diminutive.  The tuna was fresh but average, while the sauce completely lacked the spice our palates longed for.  We were the only thing raging (in disappointment) after sampling this.  Jozu Kin's Maguro Togarashi was light-years ahead.  Even Sakura's Crunchy Tuna Maki was way better than this fusion version.

Chicken Teriyaki, P268 (+10% service charge)

For the mains, we picked another favorite, the chicken teriyaki.  The skin was grilled to a light crisp with a smokey taste.  Makes me wonder why the Bacon Asparagus wasn't similarly done.  The meat itself was tender and juicy, and the sauce had the right blend of sweet and salty.  This was the only satisfactory item that night, yet the serving size was still a let-down.  For the same price, you could get a heftier serving at other authentic Japanese shop.  In addition, they could have been more liberal with the sauce, as it had a good mix of tastes.  The dish thus comes out dry in the end and lacking a bit of pomp.  Where was the unique fusion here?  Beats me.  Little Rio and Kenji Tei have more ingenious takes on the chicken teriyaki, making it crispy unlike any other.  Now that's inventive.

Ebi Tempura, P368 (+10% service charge)

Hoping to save the night was the Ebi Tempura, another ubiquitous item on any Japanese dinner.  But it fails miserably much the same way.  First off, you don't get a choice to select a 3-piece or 5-piece set.  Strangely, if I recall it right, it came in a 4-piece set.  The prawns were dwarfish and pathetic.  The breading was thin, too thin to get one excited.  I like my tempura bursting with coating yet housing a bigger surprise within.  This one got it all wrong.  Nevertheless, the batter was crisp and the prawn was fresh and juicy.  If not for its puny size, and that exorbitant price tag, this could have been the savior.

Dalandan Shake, P108 (+10% service charge)

Watermelon Shake, P108 (+10% service charge)

Good thing we ordered their fruit shakes, which were comfortingly good and refreshing.  At least our frustrations were washed down.  Maybe Mr. Kurosawa should be better of as a bar.  Or just a steak and burger joint. Or maybe I should just kick myself.

Almost predictably, despite the change of name, their menu was quite similar to their sister shop Sumo Sam, albeit with a heftier price tag and hipper feel.  We didn't try the Western cuisine, which might have been spot-on.  But then again, this was supposed to be Euro-Nippon fusion, and I mistakenly expected a twist in flavor.  Instead, the Japanese comfort food were lost in translation, forgetting the authenticity and missing out altogether.  Compounding its woes were the price tags that could fetch you more in Little Tokyo or some cozy Japanese nook that preserved tradition.

Still, Mr. Kurosawa is a brave attempt in merging two contrasting tastes and cultures.  It appeals more to the innovative and adventurous, much less to the traditionalists and purists.  The Western selections deserve a second look and some of the more unique Japanese rolls may rival that of Omakase's selection and are worth another try.  If I get one more chance.

Jones

Mr. Kurosawa Euro-Japanese

Ground Floor, Eastwood Mall

Libis, Quezon City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mr-Kurosawa-Euro-Japanese/177631448941095

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