Supper at the Shang: Kettle + Spatzle

Returning home after a year away, it was an exhilarating feeling to see the Philippine food scene more vibrant than ever.  Even with the influx of several foreign-based brands, it is indeed an encouraging observation that our home-grown food joints are keeping up with them toe-to-toe. 

At the center of this food rebirth are so-called lifestyle malls, sections of our well-loved stores devoted to more upscale fashion and food.  At the brand spanking new wing of Shangri-La Plaza along EDSA, the gustatory options are limitless.

All dolled up for Christmas.

Making waves in these shiny hallways for over a year already is the locally based restaurant, Kettle.  Earning enormous praise from both the ordinary hungry crowd and high-standard foodies, Kettle was perhaps one of the most talked about (and most Instagrammed) food find.  We finally had the chance to indulge in their comfort food offerings.

The menu book was rustic, printed on brown paper and devoid of any images.  Still, we came here well-informed and ready, with our goal to sample their now legendary Buttermilk Fried Chicken and the Potato Strips.  

Now that's what I call Bucket Fries!

The missus was very euphoric in picking the Pork and Potato Strips.  When it arrived, I was shocked!  I never knew it was this humongous. If there was such a thing as bucket fries (as compared to bucket fried chicken), this was it.  An imposing tower of crispy potato strips rested on a bed of crunchy pork belly cubes, the latter resting on, you guessed it, another bed of fries!

Pork and Potato Strips, PHP 339 (+5% service charge)

At first bite, the potato strips reminded me of our favorite snack, Pik-Nik.  But this was embellished with a sprinkling of cheese, and a drizzle of truffle oil whose saltiness was the key to this dish.  The fries were crisp all the way, there wasn't a single strip that was soggy.  

The challenge was how to consume this thing without scattering it all over the table. Remarkably, we were able to reach the bed of pork belly, a fitting reward for our effort.  The pork was deep fried to a crisp, reminiscent of chicharon belly commonly seen in some local pansit.  The dish would have been a perfect match for beer and chippy conversation.  We couldn't finish the entire tower, but surprisingly, a day later, the fries were still as crisp as new.  Although a bit pricey for an appetizer, the serving size was good for at least 4 people.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken, PHP 519 (+5% service charge)

I was giddy with anticipation as the Buttermilk Fried Chicken was set on our table.  Two huge cuts of chicken deep fried to perfection teased us with their aroma.  On the side were three piece of  cornbread, and two dips, the usual gravy and uniquely, Cajun honey.

The skin was perfect - crisp and crunchy in all parts.  But noticeably, the cajun rub added too much saltiness.  Thankfully, the gravy and honey mix doused some of the salinity. The meat within was tender and oozing with juices as I poked through it.  But the flavor seemed a bit lacking, as every bite needed a dip on the gravy.  Come to think of it, I've had more flavorful Southern-style fried chicken at Popeye's back in SG.  Was I missing something here, or did I set my standard too high because of the hype for this dish?

In fact, the saltiness became too overwhelming after successive bites.  I couldn't finish even just one piece. (Or maybe I was too full with the Potato Strips.)  The cornbread was soft but a tad dry, but a little drizzle of honey made up for it.  I still long for the original Corn Muffins from Kenny Roger's back when it first opened.  Kettle's version nearly duplicated it but not quite yet.  My bubble of eagerness was thus rudely burst by a bit of a disappointment with this dish.

Truffle Gorgonzola, PHP 289 (+5% service charge)

In an interesting twist (pun intended), the pasta dish was the saving grace for the night. As the Truffle Gorgonzola was laid on top of our table, the pungent smell of cheese emanated robustly.  It was a clear sign that this was really good cheese.

The spaghetti was cooked impeccably al dente.  The truffle cream and parmesan cheese were harmonious together, cloying at our palate with just the right saltiness and zest.  My only gripe was they scrimped on the sauce a bit, as it soon dried up easily and nearly coagulated in between the pasta.  

Despite that, I thoroughly enjoyed this pasta dish.  And that says a lot, since I am not really fond of a lot of noodle dishes.

Peach Iced Tea, Carafe, PHP 149 (+5% service charge)

The carafe of Peach Iced Tea was more than enough to douse the strong flavors of the food.  Refreshing, but a little too sweet, the peach flavor was homey and instantly brings thoughts of garden picnics and such.

Our Kettle experience was quite revealing.  Their flagship dish failed to impress me, as it isn't something that I'll be coming back and craving for.  But, interestingly, the pasta and the potato strips were spot on.  Perhaps there is indeed more to Kettle than just the overly-hyped and attention-grabbing buttermilk fried chicken.

After a filling meal, we decided to grab dessert some place else.  Walking around the new wing, we spotted an enticing photograph of this cake.

The four layers of heaven.

It was enough to hook us and reel us in.  Spatzle Euro Market Cafe served European dishes in a very quirky and rustic atmosphere.  I liked the look and feel of their spot more than Kettle's.

The other menu items seemed interesting and worth a return ticket.  But for now, the Frozen Brazo de Mercedes was the centerpiece.

Frozen Brazo de Mercedes, PHP 220 (+5% service charge)

A hefty slice of four layers of heaven, this cake was stupendous.  I have always liked the usual Brazo, but freezing it and adding a base of Graham did wonders.  It was a journey of flavors as you slice into it vertically.  The upper-most layer was sweet and toasted, followed by an airy and fluffy texture.  The tongue is then spirited away by the soft creamy center, and then boldly brought back down to earth by the firmer lower layer of luscious cream and the nutty crust of Graham.

It was divinity in a cube, magic in four layers.  Definitely worth the calories and the price tag.  I'm looking forward to trying out their other dishes next time.

Our sojourn at the Shang was a memorable moment.  Clearly, one night is not enough to sample all the other establishments along its bright hallways. Main players such as Kettle are certain to draw the crowd because of its mainstream and social media exposure, but lesser known Spatzle is keen to carve a niche of its own.

Jones

Kettle

Shangri-La Plaza Mall

5th Floor, East Wing

Shaw Boulevard, Wack-Wack

Mandaluyong City

https://www.facebook.com/kettleph

Spatzle Euro Market Cafe

Shangri-La Plaza Mall

5th Floor, East Wing

Shaw Boulevard, Wack-Wack

Mandaluyong City

http://ifoodsgroup.com/spatzle

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Finding Italian on the Island: Spageddies

Aside from our own local cuisine, a typical Filipino has only a handful of favorites: Chinese, Japanese, American, and yes, Italian.  Strange that the aforementioned are historically our colonizers, except for the latter.  Truth be told, the common pinoy finds comfort over a slice of soggy, reheated Hawaiian flavored pizza, or the "Filipinized" sweetened spaghetti bolognese from our most lovable big red bee.  Not authentically Italian, but still conceptually so.

As if imprinted in my genes, I found myself craving for pizza or pasta in this sunny island-nation.  I wanted a little more than the hawker Western stall cheap imitation, but my finances shied away from hotel-grade Italian restaurants.  Then I stumbled upon Spageddies, marketing itself as "unmistakably" Italian.

Stereotypically Italian?

A casual dining spot that originated from the US, Spageddies appeared authentic, albeit stereotypical.  The choice of red and green motifs decorating the interiors almost painted the Italian national flag.  Were they trying too hard?  Or was this the real thing?

Nevertheless, despite their nearly inconspicuous location in Orchard Central, the restaurant had quite a cozy corner.  Tall glass panels illuminated the interiors with natural light while providing a stunning view of the boulevard below.  A good spot for a late lunch, definitely.

The menu was straightforward.  None of the fancy fusion inventions nor any local adaptations.  Definitely a plus point for a shop striving to be authentic.  All the appetizers looked appealing, so we got the ball rolling by ordering their triple sampler, the Primo Combo.

Primo Combo, SGD 14.50 (approx. PHP 500, +7% GST and 10% service charge)

Composed of a trio of deep fried goodies, the Primo Combo was an ample way to whet the appetite.  The mozzarella sticks were crisp on the outside.  The cheese itself was tad too firm, as I would have preferred it to be gooey and stringy. Still, it tasted real and true, and not your refrigerated ready-to-cook sticks you can easily buy from the local grocer.

The other components were a little hit-and-miss.  The calamari was correctly fried, retaining the sweetness and tenderness of the squid rings.  However, the batter seemed a little salty and over-seasoned.  The soft-shell crab was a welcome member to the trio, but was similarly over-seasoned and a tad too briny.  Still, the tangy tartar sauce and neapolitan dip saved the day, blanching the saltiness in their own distinct flavors.  

Pirate Andy Pasta, SGD 18.90 (approx. PHP 650, +7% GST and 10% service charge)

I was truly hoping the pasta dishes would not disappoint. At first glance, the Pirate Andy Pasta seemed up to the task.  With a catchy name and boasting of the bounty of the sea, this relatively new item on the menu boasted the triple threat of squid, prawns, and clams.

Bountiful harvest of the sea.

Drizzled in the healthy goodness of olive oil, the noodles were perfectly executed, al dente, as they usually quip.  The seafood was in abundance, nearly smothering the noodles itself.  The squid was firm but not chewy, while the shrimps were small yet sweet and juicy.  I had hoped there were more clams, offering a briny taste in contrast to the herbal mix of flavors of the olive oil and cherry tomatoes.  We requested for a more red peppers to spice up the dish, but we still needed to season it with dried chili flakes to take it up another notch.

Like a tenacious buccaneer, the Pirate Andy Pasta captured our hearts and did not disappoint.  I was eagerly anticipating my next pasta dish, the more traditional Lasagna.

Lasagna, SGD 14.50 (approx. PHP 500, +7 GST and 10% service charge)

Draped in messy melted cheese, the lasagna brought memories of childhood when Mom used to bake her own.  I hoped it had the same homey goodness, although the size was far smaller than what mother prepared long time ago.

Nonetheless, this layered pasta dish burst with flavor with each bite.  The lasagna was pregnant with ricotta cheese within, while the meat sauce was cloying with the light zest of fresh tomatoes.  Still, I would have preferred more ground meat inside to add more body and toughness to this dish.  Also, the sauce seemed to run out when I was down to my last few morsels.

Unmistakably good enough.

Despite coming off as stereotypical at first impression, Spageddies does not fail to deliver.  Even if it does not impress in a mind-blowing manner, neither does it disappoint.  For a casual diner, Spageddies manages to step up a notch.  Serving pasta in immaculate white plates, prompt and quick attentive service, all the little things to make their restaurant feel like a fine dining experience.

Prices are also quite reasonable, although the appetizer seemed too few for the price tag.  Overall, Spageddies Italian Kitchen is a reasonable mid-level option for those who don't want to shell out too much for good, true-tasting Italian pasta.  A charming Italian find on the island.

Jones

Spageddies Italian Kitchen

181 Orchard Road

#04-01, Orchard Central

Singapore

https://www.facebook.com/spageddies

www.spageddies.com.sg

 

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The Pride and Joy of the South: Borgo Cafe

The benefits of a regular exercise routine are innumerable.  Not only does it maintain good health, but it also enhances one's self-esteem and confidence.  In my case, whenever I go for a round of jogging along BF's main thoroughfare, I get to check out some of the better places to eat.  Talk about jogging as a double-edged sword.

Meat lovers, rejoice!

During my morning runs, I often passed by this small shop painted in maroon, with a conspicuous sign boasting about some sort of butcher's steak and a steak-all-you-can meat frenzy.  That was enough to spark my curiosity.  Later on, I found out to my surprise, it had already aroused a few foodies in the blog scene.  I had to try it out soon.

Borgo Cafe had apparently been around for over a year now.  But with its location on the less famous side of BF, it probably did not enjoy much exposure and patronage during its first months of existence.  I, for one, had often ignored this quaint shop flanked by more familiar stores, namely Lydia's Lechon and Flaming Wings.  Browsing through food reviews, this place has begun making its name with its signature "butcher's" steak, but I would soon realize there was more to Borgo Cafe than the meaty goodness it offered.,

So off we went on Mom's birthday.  As we stepped onto their entrance, we were greeted by their waitstaff who suddenly told us that normally the cafe was closed during lunchtime on weekdays.  Luckily though, they were open for a private function, so they could accommodate us for that day.  A definite plus in service.  Seemingly small from the outside, the place had in fact, cozy and spacious interiors.

Even on a cloud day, the place was well illuminated by the natural sunlight emanating from its clear glass sliding doors and tall windows.  The tables and seats were mundane and quite out of place, unable to match the brick red columns and wooden panels that decorated the restaurant.  Still, there was a homey vibe and down-to-earth simplicity that would be in consonance with the unpretentious yet delicious meals.

It's Angus Beef. Not Angus.B.

The menu is straightforward, offering a variety of soups, salads, pasta, and sandwiches.  Of course, the meaty steaks take the center stage.  A good point was that all main entrees include a side salad and your choice to go high-carb with rice or fries or mashed potatoes, or go easy on the carbs by picking all greens.  But believe me, with their steak, it is but appropriate to pick rice. Period.

Tomato and Celery Soup, P115 (+5% service charge)

Dad started the ball rolling with his order of soup.  The Tomato and Celery Soup was hearty and filling, with chopped celery swimming within the zesty concoction.  The soup was not too thick, and the smooth goodness of tomato gushes with each sip.  The bacon strip looked appealing but was a sad disappointment.  It was tough and hard in places, as if it was left standing too long in a food warmer.

Chili Chicken Salpicado, P175 (+5% service charge)

First main course to arrive was the Chili Chicken Salpicado.  These chopped cubes of chicken were sauteed in a tomato based sauce and seasoned with paprika, garlic, peppers, and Borgo's own chili oil.  The chicken meat was fresh and flavorful on its own.  Mushrooms and all sorts of bell peppers added volume to the mix, resulting in an array of flavors, playing on sourness and zest.  However, for my taste, the supposed "chili" part was wanting.  Dad even had to drizzle a good amount of hot sauce just to perk up the dish.  The order came with a cup of rice and a generous serving of fresh greens drizzled with sweet-sour vinaigrette and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese.  The salad was perfect.  

Marina Bay, P229 (+5% service charge)

An obvious reference to the famous Marina Bay of Singapore, the pasta dish had no trace of Singaporean flavor whatsoever.  This pasta dish was draped lovingly in marinara sauce and then topped off with the bounty of the sea: shrimps, oysters, scallops, squids - you name it.

To put things in perspective, I'm not too fond of pasta - hell, anything with noodles, for that matter (except of course everyone's childhood favorite Jolly Spaghetti!).  So for me to say that I actually loved the Marina Bay is quite a mouthful (pun intended).  The sauce was mildly tangy and not strong and overpowering like a typical Italian sauce, which is a plus for Filipinos who grew up on the Jolly Spaghetti!  Don't get me wrong, this is not your common birthday pasta taste.  The distinct flavor of tomatoes dominated, admixed with the mild bitter taste of olives.  The freshness of the array of seafood stood out, with the squid rings leaving a good impression on me.  It was tender and succulent, not sinewy or chewy.  The clams and scallops were likewise fresh and briny.  The dish was a heaping bountiful harvest, a generous serving of an explosion of flavors.  

Butcher's Steak, P299 (+5% service charge)

Of course, mine was the best dish of the day, Borgo Cafe's pride and joy.  The Butcher's Steak was probably labeled as such because of its appearance, much like strips of steak trimmed off from the bone.  This is certified Angus beef, so I did expect a lot.  And it did not disappoint.  Each slice was knife-tender and juicy as I greedily hacked away at one piece.

I like mine with a tint of red rawness.

The beef was impeccably grilled to a medium well, with traces of bloody rawness contributing to its soft and tender texture, and the tell-tale crisscross char pattern so enticing.  At first glance, it appeared to be devoid of any marinade.  However, with each successive bite, the peppery flavor exuded slowly onto my palate.  It was a  delicate but tantalizing play of smokey flavor and peppery goodness.  Served with a side of greens, an appropriate amount of buttered rice completes the package.  The whole dish would have been flawless had it not been for the gravy dip, which was a bit watery and lacking in flavor.  I would have preferred a thicker and sweeter concoction (sorry, but pinoys absolutely adore KFC-like gravy and make a soup out of it).  Nevertheless, in my opinion, even without the gravy, the Butcher's Steak would remain great on its own.  Strange that halfway through the meal, it reminded me of my favorite dirt-cheap Snackaroo steak, except for the gravy!

Borgo Cafe was a revealing experience, a wonderful culinary adventure.  A few years ago, there used to be a similar joint right across it, by the name of Tarragon.  Back then, it used to serve BF's best kept secret -  perfectly grilled lamb chops for less than 200 bucks.  Borgo Cafe is fast becoming a legend on its own, with its critically acclaimed specialty, the Butcher Steak.

This little pail serves your change. Or maybe extra gravy.

But there is indeed more to Borgo Cafe than its signature steak, with the Marina Bay blowing the competition out of the water.  I would definitely try out their other pasta dishes next time out.  Or maybe their steak-all-you-can offering too.  A few rants though would be their store hours (weekday lunches are non-existent) and the small fact they don't accept credit cards.  Nevertheless, with an accommodating and cheery waitstaff, quick service yet freshly cooked meals, and very reasonable prices, Borgo Cafe is set to conquer this side of Aguirre Avenue.  So skip the traffic and crazy queues on BF's more famous Aguirre strip, and head on to the other side to enjoy a cozy and comfortable meal.  I know I would.

Jones

Borgo Cafe

312 Aguirre Avenue, BF Homes

Paranaque City

https://www.facebook.com/borgocafe

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Stay Away From the Overrated Worldly Chicken! Meister is Better.

I love food courts.  I grew up spending lunchtimes at this crowded part of the mall, enjoying looking at the brightly lit half-dried, half-warmed, half-exposed smorgasbord of colorful recipes that practically look the same.  The ubiquitous fastfood chain in the center, your friendly carinderia on the corner, and the box-office siomai stall all completing the cast of this wonderful place.  I would definitely trade a run-down overpriced dinner at a fancy restaurant for a comforting value meal amidst the smokey air of the food court.

Still, I gape at the long line of people piling up in front of an overrated food court chain known for its chicken and carbs combo.  I had tried this once before, got utterly disappointed, and vowed never to fall into such a travesty once again.  Compounding my bitterness was the fact that a better, lesser known, choice was just a few paces away.

Inside the Glorietta Food Choices area, towards the end of the hall, there's a humble stall quietly serving some of the best-tasting and healthier combo meals this part of the mall.  Meister, a food court brand of the Almon Marina restaurant, is a known favorite of hungry office people and shoppers alike, who tire of the long lines of cold meal disappointments. Serving value meals worth under P160, you get a hefty serving of your daily RDA of carbs, and a healthier grilled serving of meat, whether it be chicken, pork, or a fat piece of sausage.

This is easily one of my favorite go-to places in the food court (the other being Magic Wok, oh lechon macau I long for thee).  We usually order a rice / pasta and pork combo for me, and a pasta / sausage value meal for the missus. 

 Pork Loin, Rice Pilaf, and Vegetable Sides Combo

P145

I couldn't resist the long slice of pork loin basking in oil, enhanced by the warm light and barbecue fragrance in the air.  Even if I wanted to choose the healthier grilled chicken, I always end up surrendering to this slice of sinful heaven.  That's the good thing about food courts, what you see is what you really get (literally).  The way here in Meister is that you get to choose your poison (meat), your added kick (the sauce for it), the carb filler (rice or pasta), and the guilt-reducer (veggie sides, coleslaw, or another round of carbs - potatoes or macaroni salad).  I got the veggie side to reduce my guilt, then splurged on the rice pilaf.  The pork itself was silky smooth, with just the right amount of fat bordering the soft meat.  Add the spicy barbecue sauce, and you'd think this was Rack's, with a cheaper price tag.  The vegetable siding paired well with my sinfulness, crisp and crunchy pieces of carrots, turnips, and cucumber.  You can't go wrong with the rice pilaf, and this isn't your run-of-the-mill artificially colored excuse for a java rice.  All this will set you back for under 200 bucks.

 Pasta Vongole, Baby Potatoes, and Italian Sausage

P140

A less sinful combination, but equally tasty.  The vongole sauce consists of clams refusing to be opened drenched in white, peppery, creamy sauce.  The fettucine was al dente (which was surprising for a food court), and the sauce was generously draped over.  The baby potatoes does not actually come with any sauce, but, being a frequenter of this place, we got to convince the server to drench ours in the chili and cheese sauce (which was great!).  The Italian sausage was nearly half-a-foot long, packed with a peppery punch, further enhanced by the spicy barbecue sauce again.  You can ask the server to separate the sauces if you don't want to eat with all the sauces mixing up and turning into an undecipherable goo.  All this for a good price of less than 200 bucks.

And people still line up on the other side for a cold, uninterested slice of small chicken and a sad serving of an excuse of a pasta.  And they pay for practically more.  Still, I would rather watch them waste away their time and money, while I sit quietly and enjoy my secret nook in my favorite part of the mall.  The food court.

Jones

Meister

Glorietta 4 Food Court

Makati City

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