Ginza Bairin: The New "Old" Kid On the Block
There are always two sides to the coin: some argue that the arrival of foreign food franchises dampens the enthusiasm of locally established food fare. On the other hand, it cannot be discounted that we could finally sample the taste and experience the higher quality of imported brands. Whatever it is, inside my stomach, it's all the same.
But not all are truly the same. The katsu craze has ravaged the country, with the biggest player cropping up branches like mushrooms. It has even stimulated the birth of smaller shops that offer good katsu, without the insane queues and fully booked nights. And then arrives two heavyweights straight from the land of the rising sun. And the war has just begun.
I'm dreaming...
It did not take long before one of the original creators of the katsu finally came to our shores to stamp its own class. Ginza Bairin has been churning out these delightful chops even before the Japs had ideas of Asian conquest. This time around, its a culinary conquest, a World War III on the katsu battleground.
Still on its soft opening, Ginza Bairin has already made the news among the local food blog scene. It wasn't surprising then that the place was packed even on a rainy Saturday lunch. Located loftily in the swanky new Glorietta 2 wing, its doors resemble an entrance to a temple. I wonder if this is the current architectural trend for restaurants.
Enter the dragon.
The place is quite small for a shop that's expecting a deluge of customers. Nevertheless, the interiors are well-lit and upbeat, with its modern minimalist design and fixtures a pleasing sight to behold.
Disco balls.
The menu book almost seemed like a chic coffee table book, colorful and glossy, with fluent descriptions of what to expect. It was tempting to bring this home altogether.
Class of '27 Photo Album.
Everything looked delectable. But I wanted to compare their katsu with that of the local competitor, so I picked what I had before. She opted again for seafood fare. While waiting for our orders, I noticed the same mortar and pestle set-up for preparing the special dipping sauce. I read somewhere that Ginza Bairin in other countries don't have this set-up, but Filipinos have grown accustomed to it, so they placed it here. Anyway, it's a good past time while waiting for the food.
Step one: wipe your hands with the moist towelette.
Step two: grind the sesame seeds with all your strength. Anger is advised.
Step three: open the pot containing the sauce.
Step four: pour the wonderful sauce.
Finished product. Success!
The dishes here come in sets, complete with unlimited Japanese gohan and shredded cabbage. Hell even the miso soup and sliced pineapples are unlimited. Gluttons rejoice!
Kurobuta Rosu Katsu Set, P595 (+10% service charge)
By now, every one knows that Kurobuta means bad-ass. Bad-ass Berkshire black pig deep-fried to perfection. At first sight, the serving size was a tad smaller than that of Yabu. Indeed, at Yabu you could choose a heavier portion. At Ginza Bairin, you have no choice but to settle for this. But that doesn't mean it's not good.
The goodness within.
The outer shell of panko was perfectly executed: crisp but not painful to the palate. The meat inside was firm and chunky, yet tender enough to easily ruminate on. However, it lacked the succulent juiciness that I had first encountered at Yabu. Moreover, I was left craving for a sliver of fat in each slice, which adds the guilty pleasure I want from a bad-ass pig. Nevertheless, the dish was surprisingly filling, as I was left with two slices by the time I called it quits.
The reason for the quick white flag of surrender? The cabbage. Strangely, these oft ignored side dish at any katsu place took the center stage. The secret was in the sesame sauce inconspicuously sitting beside the katsu sauce pot. There was a uniquely delicious savory taste in this sauce, such that we emptied half a bottle just between the two of us. I have never eaten so much cabbage in one sitting in my entire life, I felt I was a goat. I wanted to bring home the whole bottle to try it out on other dishes. It might even taste great with the katsu!
Prawn Fry Set, P395 (+10% service charge)
These were not your ordinary puny prawns. These were giant black tiger prawns coated with the same breading, and deep fried to a crisp you could eat them shell and all. She figured two pieces were not enough, so an extra piece was called for.
Extra piece of Ebi Katsu, P150
It's gratifying that their menu allows such flexibility. There are also mixed katsu sets, but you could mix and match your own with the a la carte selections. The black tiger prawns were crunchy outside, while the meat was fresh and tender and succulent. I got a kick sucking out the brains on each of the prawn heads. Every nook and cranny was delectable.
Iced Tea, P75 (+10% service charge)
All these delights needed a refreshing douse of cold drink, and the Iced Tea was the perfect companion. Cool and subtly sweet with a hint of fresh tea leaves, you can never go wrong with this.
Another thumbs up approval.
Barely a month old in operation, Ginza Bairin has already gained a loyal crowd of followers and instilled anxiety on its main competitor. There are a few items in their menu that Yabu does not have, and I have read that their Katsudon was other-worldly. Nevertheless, Ginza Bairin lacks a few items too, notably the Soft-Shell Crab that was so utterly good.
The arrival of this new "old" kid on the block heralds an era of an endless katsu war, its main armament of deeply rooted tradition in cooking perfection highlights its advantage. The quality and freshness of its ingredients are unquestionable, the service likewise impeccable. Only the palate can decide who the true champion of katsu will reign victorious. Whoever it may be, the winners will always be us, the hungry diners.
Jones
Ginza Bairin
Glorietta 2 (along Palm Drive)
Makati City
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