Lost In Translation: Mr. Kurosawa
Combining two good things should produce one great product, right? Not entirely true. I'm always skeptical whenever I try a "fusion" restaurant. Sometimes, too much creativity ruins the idea. Other times, the marriage of two different cuisines results in one overpowering the other, such that the great flavor of one dissipates altogether.
But then, the essence of fusion is coming up with an entirely unique menu. So why Mr. Kurosawa serves a familiarly Japanese line-up is beyond me. Nevertheless, it leaves that part of their cuisine open to scrutiny.
Culture fusion.
Mr. Kurosawa is the brainchild of the same group who brought Sumo Sam. The latter is a straightforward Japanese joint, but with a few hints of Westernization. Nevertheless, its modernist approach has won over a lot of fans. Mr. Kurosawa seeks to take that a notch higher, with higher-end items and a hodge-podge of fusion inventions.
From its outward appearance, Mr. Kurosawa seems like a modern hip resto-bar. Dimly-lit interiors, neon signage, and sleek fixtures exude an Euro gastro-pub feel. In fact, the only traces of Nipponese were the pictures of samurai and kabuki dotting the walls. It was a special night, so the place was packed. Luckily we grabbed a cozy nook by the window panels.
At first glance, the only Western pieces that I noticed were the pizza selections and the burger concoctions, and of course the steaks. We weren't in the mood for that, so we picked the Japanese menu, expecting a tweak in flavor and a twist in taste. This was supposed to be fusion anyway.
Bacon Asparagus, P289 (+10% service charge)
A staple in most Japanese joints, we started off with the Bacon Asparagus. I distinctly remember John and Yoko's version which was perfectly executed. I was expecting the same talent here. Although the serving size was larger, the dish failed horribly. The bacon strips were sad and tired and not grilled enough to give a smokey flavor. Some of the asparagus tops were too old and tough, I couldn't nibble them at all. Nevertheless, the sauce was just right with a sweet and tangy flavor. This could have been better.
Raging Tuna, P299 (+10% service charge)
Craving for a spicy kick, it was a tug-of-war between the Raging Tuna and the Dynamite Roll. Since we've tried a number of versions of Dynamite Roll in other restaurants (I loved Omakase's version), we picked the novel sounding item instead. How wrong we were. The Raging Tuna consisted of raw tuna bits on top of a traditional roll, and then drizzled with a tangy sauce. The rolls itself were diminutive. The tuna was fresh but average, while the sauce completely lacked the spice our palates longed for. We were the only thing raging (in disappointment) after sampling this. Jozu Kin's Maguro Togarashi was light-years ahead. Even Sakura's Crunchy Tuna Maki was way better than this fusion version.
Chicken Teriyaki, P268 (+10% service charge)
For the mains, we picked another favorite, the chicken teriyaki. The skin was grilled to a light crisp with a smokey taste. Makes me wonder why the Bacon Asparagus wasn't similarly done. The meat itself was tender and juicy, and the sauce had the right blend of sweet and salty. This was the only satisfactory item that night, yet the serving size was still a let-down. For the same price, you could get a heftier serving at other authentic Japanese shop. In addition, they could have been more liberal with the sauce, as it had a good mix of tastes. The dish thus comes out dry in the end and lacking a bit of pomp. Where was the unique fusion here? Beats me. Little Rio and Kenji Tei have more ingenious takes on the chicken teriyaki, making it crispy unlike any other. Now that's inventive.
Ebi Tempura, P368 (+10% service charge)
Hoping to save the night was the Ebi Tempura, another ubiquitous item on any Japanese dinner. But it fails miserably much the same way. First off, you don't get a choice to select a 3-piece or 5-piece set. Strangely, if I recall it right, it came in a 4-piece set. The prawns were dwarfish and pathetic. The breading was thin, too thin to get one excited. I like my tempura bursting with coating yet housing a bigger surprise within. This one got it all wrong. Nevertheless, the batter was crisp and the prawn was fresh and juicy. If not for its puny size, and that exorbitant price tag, this could have been the savior.
Dalandan Shake, P108 (+10% service charge)
Watermelon Shake, P108 (+10% service charge)
Good thing we ordered their fruit shakes, which were comfortingly good and refreshing. At least our frustrations were washed down. Maybe Mr. Kurosawa should be better of as a bar. Or just a steak and burger joint. Or maybe I should just kick myself.
Almost predictably, despite the change of name, their menu was quite similar to their sister shop Sumo Sam, albeit with a heftier price tag and hipper feel. We didn't try the Western cuisine, which might have been spot-on. But then again, this was supposed to be Euro-Nippon fusion, and I mistakenly expected a twist in flavor. Instead, the Japanese comfort food were lost in translation, forgetting the authenticity and missing out altogether. Compounding its woes were the price tags that could fetch you more in Little Tokyo or some cozy Japanese nook that preserved tradition.
Still, Mr. Kurosawa is a brave attempt in merging two contrasting tastes and cultures. It appeals more to the innovative and adventurous, much less to the traditionalists and purists. The Western selections deserve a second look and some of the more unique Japanese rolls may rival that of Omakase's selection and are worth another try. If I get one more chance.
Jones
Mr. Kurosawa Euro-Japanese
Ground Floor, Eastwood Mall
Libis, Quezon City
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