Kenji Tei: Revisited, Redeemed
Some restaurants are just hard to forget, especially when they are close to your heart. Never mind the change in venue, never mind the escalation of prices, never mind the tweaking of the menu. When you know the food is still good, it's difficult to resist the temptation to pay them another visit.
Despite my previous rants about Kenji Tei (see here) and its inevitable changes, the mere knowledge at the back of my mind that they still serve one of the best Japanese comfort food is enough to entice me to choose Kenji Tei for a quick lunch at a snap of a finger. Especially when it's past lunch time and my stomach had been grumbling for more than an hour. The mere sight of their white and red signage was enough to raise my white flag of surrender. Images of tempura soon wallow in my mind.
I missed you.
Kenji Tei has found a home on its lofty perch in Greenbelt 5, going toe to toe with the other classy restaurants here. Easily fully occupied during any lunch or dinner time on any given day, its move to a high-end mall has done it wonders. With a chic interior, a nice view of the Greenbelt garden below, and hip vibe, Kenji Tei is one of the sought after ramen places in town. However, I still miss its homey feel that it used to exude back when it was cozily located in BF.
A happier home.
Still wary of the deconstruction of their Gyudon, I chose to avoid ordering it so as not to disappoint my day. Instead, I wanted to sample my previous favorites which I raved about before, even with the current heftier price tags. I wanted to see if they maintained the quality and taste of their best-sellers, enough to bring back my happy memories of the better days of Kenji Tei.
Cheese Gyoza, P198 (+10% service charge)
Always a fire starter, the Cheese Gyoza is the best way to jump start your lunch. Some like their gyoza lightly fried with some parts of the skin soft. But Kenji Tei does it differently, and has always done so consistently since its BF days. The gyoza is perfectly deep fried to a crisp, yet retaining its internal softness once you bite into it. Fully stuffed with pork meat blended with divine cheese, the mixture is magical. Addictive in every bite, the spicy mayo dip amps up the explosion of taste dancing around on your tongue. Perfect either as stand alone or a companion to your rice or ramen, the cheese gyoza is a best seller as evidenced by the fact that this was the last order left for that day. Lucky us!
Crispy Chicken Teriyaki, P228 (+10% service charge)
One of the best things to ever happen to chicken, Kenji Tei delivers a unique twist to an old-time favorite. With each bite, I distinctly remember my first moment with this inventive creation. Only one other crispy chicken teriyaki could stand up to Kenji Tei (the Little Rio version). Each morsel consists of a thin crispy chicken skin enveloping the succulent and tender meat within. But the fun doesn't end there. The teriyaki sauce is a merry mix of sweet and salty, necessitating a cup of rice as the perfect partner. Best consumed immediately, it's comforting to realize that the quality of this dish has been maintained immaculately.
Gohan, P68 (+10% service charge)
Of course, a Japanese meal will never be complete without a serving of tempura. My fondest memory of Kenji Tei was back then when we were served one of the largest prawn tempura I had ever seen. My eyes popped out of their sockets. And so, here I was again waiting anxiously for our order of tempura, hoping it would not disappoint.
Ebi Tempura (5 pcs), P368 (+10% service charge)
At first glance, it was a sight to behold. Each piece seemed large, but the breading was flowery and could have been an illusion. The coating was crunchy and adequate, neither too thin nor too thick. Sadly though, the prawns within were ordinarily sized. These paled in comparison to those I previously had in other joints, and even during Kenji Tei's better days. Nevertheless, the prawns were fresh and sweet, juicy and tender with each bite. The bigger letdown however was the price tag. I used to enjoy their tempura for just under 300 bucks for the 5 piece set. Now I still believe it's overpriced at more than 300 pesos for these normal sized prawns. For the same price tag I could grab a 5 piece set with humongous black tiger prawns at another shop. Still, Kenji Tei remains commendable for preserving the quality of its tempura despite upping the prices.
My revisit at Kenji Tei was reassuring and redeeming. Their best sellers retained their charm and addictive taste, keeping hungry diners hooked up for more. On the other hand, my other personal favorites (gyudon and tempura) have fallen a notch lower, compounded by an increase in prices. But there's just something about restaurants such as these that keep you coming back. Maybe it's the magic of first love, or the fondness of my memories. One thing for sure though, is that whenever I would be in Greenbelt, Kenji Tei should be the easiest choice for my Japanese quick fix.
Jones
Kenji Tei Ramen House
3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5
Legazpi Street, Legazpi Village
Makati City
Written by Jones
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