Tales From The Other Side: Rio Japanese and Korean Restaurant

There was a time when the long stretch of Aguirre Avenue was nearly devoid of any food spot.  A decade ago, there were only a handful of notables, including Conti's (the original branch), Hanakazu, and Little Quiapo.  Today, Aguirre is a bustling neighborhood of cafes, bars, and restaurants.  Often neglected and forgotten is the lesser known far end of Aguirre.  Away from the traffic nightmares so common these days, this area houses a treasure trove of good finds.  I aim to start this series of posts as I discover the tales from "the other side".

Much like the more famous restaurants I mentioned above, Rio has been a resident of BF for a long time.  Under its original title "Little Rio", it slowly gained popularity as a homey, quaint Japanese joint.  It served (and still does) a unique, hitherto unconventional twist with its crispy chicken teriyaki.  Of course, since then, many restaurants have followed suit.  Quite so suddenly, it closed down but resurrected just a couple of years ago with a bigger shop.

The charm of its simplicity, combined with the affordable menu, keeps its loyalists returning.  I, for one, swear on the goodness of their chicken teriyaki.  So, on a rainy and lazy Sunday lunch, we trooped to this quieter side of town.  We had the shop to ourselves when we arrived, and we proceeded to order the usual Japanese fare they offered.

Shoyu Ramen, P190 (Regular)

With the cold downpour of rain outside, sis and Mom deemed it fit to enjoy a warm bowl of ramen.  Mom's choice was the regular sized Shoyu.  The regular bowl was sized similar to the higher end ramen restaurants, but at a much lower price tag.  I don't really fancy eating noodles, but Mom professed it was hearty and fulfilling.  Tossed into the mix were ample slices of chasu pork, half an egg, and some bean sprouts.  I took a little sip of the warm broth and the saltiness was not overpowering.  The pork was tender but lacked a bit of seasoning or flavor.  I'm not sure but the egg should have been a bit more runny.  The thin noodles were okay.

Seafood Ramen, P210 (Regular)

On the other hand, the Seafood Ramen was packed with more contents.  Slices of tuna, squid, and shrimps swam deliciously in a clear broth.  Sister claimed the seafood was fresh enough.  I took a sip of the soup and it was saltier than the shoyu.  Perhaps the natural salinity and brine of the seafood contributed to its denser flavor.  

Clearly, I am no ramen connoisseur, but the ladies enjoyed their bowls down to the last slurp.  Happily though, their 2 orders of regular ramen qualified us to avail of a promo for free 8 piece gyoza!

Gyoza, P160 (8 pcs)

It seemed like the steal of the day with the gyoza worth 160 bucks if ordered outside the promo.  Nevertheless, my expectations were not high for this version.  The dumplings were average-sized and appeared plump.  The skin was all right, not too thick.

At first bite however, it was a little deflating.  The filling was too little as evidenced by the space within.  Still, the mix inside was flavorful with the ground pork and chopped veggies.  Luckily we didn't have to pay for this since I would have regretted ordering it.

Ebi Tempura, P160 (3 pcs)

As usual, I ordered shrimp tempura which I intended to eat on my own.  But of course, the ladies grabbed a piece each.  The tempura was light, the batter thin and crisp.  The shrimps were only average-sized yet still fresh and juicy.  Not exactly award-winning, but definitely better than the regular fast-food variety.

I succumbed to my beef bowl cravings and ordered a serving of gyudon, after missing it for so long.  I eagerly waited for my order to arrive.  My heart (and stomach) has a soft spot for beef served in immaculate pristine white bowls.  This was no exception. 

Gyudon, P210

Lost in the messy presentation were thin slices of beef, a few onions, and an entanglement of noodles topped with a fresh golden egg yolk.  I actually forgot to ask the server to remove the noodles, since I was not too fond of having my gyudon in this manner.  It added too much bulk to the dish.  The mirin sauce was a good combination of savory and sweet, although inclining more to a sweeter side.  The beef, I noticed, was fewer in portion compared to a couple of years ago.  Talk about inflation (and deflation of serving sizes!).  Nevertheless, it was tender and not tough, easy on my jaws.  The rice portion was hefty and I dared not to polish it all off.  

Despite the influx of more hip restaurants and more exciting cuisines, Rio has managed to retain its humble charm and "old-world" magic.  It reminds long time residents of BF how our place used to be so quiet and peaceful, with shops such as Rio offering a homey take on old-time Japanese favorites.  Although admittedly, Rio is not as creative and innovative as other hole-in-the-wall joints.  But neither do they intend to do so.  As such, prices are kept at a minimum (even doing away with service charge) but quality is certainly above any regular fast-food joint.  Therefore, don't expect to be blown away.  Rio is a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of the other side, as it rightfully sits on the more serene end of the foodie street.

Jones

Rio Japanese and Korean Restaurant

303 El Grande Avenue, corner Havana Street

BF Homes, Paranaque City

https://www.facebook.com/thelittlerio

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The Hidden Gem: Yaku

There are a number of reasons why some restaurants remain relatively unknown.  For some, it is by choice, to perpetuate the public's curiosity and add an adventurous charm.  For others, it's just a bad location.  In the case of Yaku, it's a mix of both.

Remaining in the business for ten years now, it is remarkable how Yaku has kept itself under the radar of both foodies and the common hungry diner.  With nary an advertisement to make itself prominent, it still has maintained a loyal following.  Blame it on Feng Shui, some would say, since the first thing you notice as you finally discover where it is on the third floor, is that large silver column obscuring its facade.  It supposedly blocks the good vibes and blessings.  Blame it on the building: nobody goes to Podium to stay there for even an hour.  People just pass through going to Megamall.  At least I do.  Or blame it on the name: one wrong letter on Google Search and you end up browsing a katsu place instead.  A very famous one too.  Heck, even the word "yaku" in the bastardized vernacular means "don't want".  Go figure.

Whether by intent or by accident, Yaku has managed to instill an air of interest, a worthy reputation by word of mouth.  And I finally got to see for myself.

Indeed, Yaku is difficult to spot for those who aren't actually looking for it.  Sandwiched by a Chinese restaurant and a toy store, the tall silver column conceals its entrance.  Only a lonely menu card out front gives any indication that you're at the right place.  Inside though, is a totally different matter.  The place exudes a peaceful vibe, blending  rough stone fixtures and modern lighting into an indoor Zen garden.  In fact, Yaku's spot is envious.  The glass window panels provides ample view of the tall buidlings of Ortigas and the busy streets below, like a swanky hotel fine dine.

Concrete slabs and panels and a few bamboo shoots decorate this indoor Zen garden.

Tradition meets modern with its simple lighting on a bare ceiling background.

For the uninformed, Yaku started out as a dedicated yakitori grilling spot, hence its name.  Through the years though, clamor for a wider Japanese menu led to its expansion.  And the rest is history.  We were not too crazy for yakitori types, but we were here to sample their Japanese offerings overall.  The menu book was tattered and torn, another encouraging sign that this was  a frequented place.  After picking our orders, we could not help but notice their unique call buttons for the wait staff.  An ingenious method, a definite indication of good service.

Press button for tempura.  Now that's a button I'd love.

Straightforward menu, easy to choose, easy to love.

Can I have a cup of rice with this?

It would be a travesty not to sample their grilled specialties.  But we wanted room for a lot more, so we picked just one.  And it was the perfect choice.

Kawa, P69 (+10% service charge)

Three sticks of chicken skin perfectly grilled to a light crisp, the Kawa was sinfully addicting.  Each piece was crunchy like chicharon, yet with a hint of a typical fatty and smokey grilled taste.  A testament how Yaku has perfected its grilling technique and thus made its name as a grilling station.

Aspara Bacon, P109 (+10% service charge)

Another grilled favorite, the Aspara Bacon was a sure-fire hit.  These asparagus stalks were lightly charred and drizzled with a special marinade, wrapped lovingly in strips of heavenly bacon.  There was the familiar smokey taste, even penetrating the usually resistant asparagus.  The bacon was savory and chewy but not tough.  Still, the stalks looked thin and shabby, and I've tried stouter ones in other places.  Nevertheless, the grilled taste is so distinct and prominent that I have to coin the term, "the Yaku taste" in all my blog posts from here on.

Spicy Shake Maki, P145 (+10% service charge)

Yaku also offers a collection of maki and sushi / sashimi, to round up the Japanese menu.  But don't get too excited though.  The Spicy Shake (Salmon) Maki consisted of 6 rolls of fresh pink salmon showered in spices.  The rolls were flavorful and filling, but there was nothing spectacular in both taste and presentation.  A bit ho-hum but still a good choice for those craving for rolls.  I wonder if their other maki selections were as ordinary as this.  

Gyudon, P199 (+10% service charge)

I couldn't pass up on the Gyudon, my ultimate comfort food.  The Yaku version was simple yet savory.  Each slice of beef was tender and juicy, although a bit on the leaner side. I usually preferred slices that had a sliver of fat or tendon.  Curiously, the beef also had a hint of the Yaku grill taste, which was a good perk-up.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, neither too sweet nor salty.  The onion slices offered a contrast in texture and a hint of zest.  Missing in action though were the shitake mushrooms that would have added a bolder quality to the dish.  A serving of fresh egg yolk though made my day, since I missed mixing up the whole concoction into glutinous chunks of meat and rice.  Happily, the serving was just right for a very reasonable price, in fact, one of the most affordable yet better tasting Gyudon in the metro.  

Chicken Teriyaki, P189 (+10% service charge)

A staple of any Japanese meal, the Chicken Teriyaki was sweet and succulent.  Each slice was tender and superbly grilled with hints of charred skin.  Yet again, the Yaku grill taste was bursting forth in each bite.  Although I have tried more adventurous and bold versions of this classic, this version stayed true to its familiar taste.  Nothing really extraordinary but good and filing nonetheless.  And a steal at less than 200 bucks.

Beef Yakiniku, P215 (+10% service charge)

As if we didn't have enough of grilled dishes yet, we still picked yet another one.  The Beef Yakiniku was similarly grilled impeccably, again exuding that now familiar smokey taste.  Each morsel was  tender and easy to chew, although it was not typical of the cubed slices of other yakiniku joints.  The taste was almost similar to my Gyudon, and ordering this might have been redundant.  Still, for meat lovers, the Beef Yakiniku is an easy pick.

Ebi Tempura, P249 (+10% service charge)

Rounding up our Japanese feast of course is the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura.  These amazing prawns were huge and plump, lovingly covered in a thin crispy and crunchy breading.  I love tempura breading that bursts like a flowery and spiky explosion, as it often heralds a delicious secret within.  And that's exactly what it is here at Yaku.  The prawns are big and fat, juicy and sweet, as if oozing with the flavors of the sea.  Four pieces for roughly 250 bucks?  It's definitely a steal, a well-kept secret.  I now have another Ebi Tempura ranked up there with the likes of Jozu-Kin.

Another happy customer.

Yaku has stood the test of time.  It has proven that you don't always need a good location to reap the rewards.  You don't even need to advertise or promote a lot just to attract hungry customers.  All it takes is good food, fresh ingredients, and heartwarming service.  Despite some of their offerings just bordering on average, nonetheless the grilled dishes are critically acclaimed, and the tempura one of the best.  A hidden gem in a posh mall, Yaku seems blithe in its rightful podium among its more well-known competitors, remaining oblivious yet consistent in offering great tasting and affordable Japanese food.

Jones

Yaku Japanese Grill

3rd Level, The Podium

ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center

Mandaluyong City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Yaku-japanese-grill/201990269950862

  

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Cure Your Craving: Kuretake

Japanese food is not difficult to love.  It's simple, neat, and flavorful.  The only problem is, there are a lot of posers around the metro, claiming to serve authentic Japanese yet fails miserably in every aspect.  Such a travesty is not only committed by fast food spots, but even the highly fancied restaurants boasting about fusion and their supposed expert chefs.

So, finding a real gem of a Japanese food joint is quite a challenge.  Sometimes, longevity is one helpful clue that this is the right place.  I am often turned off by fancy shops in classy malls, not just because of the price, but mainly for the value-for-money aspect.  Don't get me wrong, I would be willing to spend and shell out a few more bucks if the food was to-die-for.  But if I was only paying for their name, or their classy spot in the mall, I would regret every centavo.  

I was a bit skeptical about Kuretake, a long-time favorite among the high-end society surrounding Rockwell.  But what helped its reputation was its staying power, keeping its almost secluded spot among the other elegant restaurant selections.  Finding Kuretake is an adventure itself.  From inside the mall, it's easy to miss the dimly lit corridor with an inconspicuous sign pointing to its back entrance.  Yes, the front entrance is actually along the circumferential street along the mall.

The gateway to culinary adventures.

Its front door is large and imposing, like the wooden entrances to a Shaolin monastery.  Inside though, the room is bright and vibrant.  The red walls blend perfectly with the wooden finish.  Their space is adequate, comfortably seating large parties, and even extends outside for those preferring al fresco dining.  Like all true Japanese joints, there are seats along the sushi prep tables for a more in-your-face sushi experience created by their sushi sensei.

The cube area is always a favorite spot.

For a more in-your-face sushi experience.

The menu was simple and straightforward, offering the traditional favorites.  No fancy names, no flowery descriptions.  One must have basic knowledge of Japanese food to figure out the selections.  Or maybe just ask their friendly wait staff.  

These small fry are always a good sign that your'e in the right place.

Of course, we were here to sample the staples and all the familiar fare.  We quickly browsed the menu for the common sounding names and placed our orders.

Tuna, P55 (2 pcs.) and Kani Sushi, P40 (2 pcs.)(+10% service charge)

Kuretake is famous for its sushi and sashimi selection, and by far it is one of the most extensive and creative.  We weren't in the mood for gobbling raw seafood that night, but we managed to order a few, just to try it out.  Thankfully, their menu allowed a la carte choices in pairs, so we wouldn't get full immediately.  The tuna sushi tasted fresh and firm, but was nothing spectacular.  The crabstick (kani) was likewise mundane.  Maybe it just wasn't a sushi night for us.

Aspara Bacon, P220 (+10% service charge)

Bacon wrapped asparagus is an all-time favorite.  These crisp asparagus stalks were grilled just right, with the bacon embracing them having just the right chewy texture.  The grilled taste was not overpowering, but still distinct.  A generous serving of mixed greens made sure this was a healthy choice.  

Tori Teriyaki, P260 (+10% service charge)

In my humble opinion, the chicken teriyaki is always the make-or-break dish.  Cook it right, and your joint is okay.  Tweak the taste a bit and get it perfect, your shop will be famous.  Fail miserably, and I'm heading for the exit.  Fortunately, the Tori Teriyaki was spot-on.  The skin was crisp and sweet, although some portions were overdone and charred too much.  The meat however, remained soft and juicy, with the sweetness of the sauce seeping within.  There was nothing new in taste, and no fancy concoction, yet this was still pleasurable to the palate.

Salmon Teppanyaki, P290 (+10% service charge)

Opting to harvest the bounty of the sea, the Salmon Teppanyaki was an easy pick.  I am always critical of any salmon dish.  There's often a fine line between perfecting it and blundering it.  Kuretake, however, did not disappoint with their version.  The salmon fillet was fresh and flaky, the meat pink and wonderful.  There was a hint of grilled taste blending with the teppanyaki sauce, a sparkling mix of sweet and salty.  In addition, the portion was large enough for two hungry people.  This was one of the best I have ever tried.  A steal at less than 300 bucks too.

Ebi Tempura, P450 (+10% service charge)

Another make-or-break dish, the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura is a mainstay of any trip to a Japanese restaurant.  The prawns were satisfyingly large, but still fell short compared to my ultimate favorite, Jozu-Kin.  However, these were impeccably executed, with the breading crisp and thin.  The prawns themselves were fresh and sweet, the succulence exuding with each bite.  Bonus points were rewarded for the little extras, the deep-fried potatoes and eggplants.  However, the eye-popping price was a bit too extravagant, considering I could get more someplace else for even a lesser price tag.

Gyudon, P420 (+10% service charge)

Paying homage to the main reason why I started food blogging, I succumbed to my craving for the divine dish, the sacred beef bowl, the Gyudon.  Dismissing its exorbitant price, I insisted on sampling the Kuretake version.  For that price tag, fortunately the serving was hefty and filling, complete with a bowl of miso soup and pickles to boot.  The beef strips were light and tender, with just the ample hint of fatty goodness.  I forgot to ask the server if they could withhold the noodles, but it was too late.  Overloading on carbs was not my plan that night, yet the noodles were firm and flavorful.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, not too sweet and not too salty.  There was, however, a queer ingredient in the mix.  I couldn't figure out what those large strips of jelly actually were.  In fact, these added too much bulk that I couldn't finish the whole bowl.  Missing in action also was the raw egg, which gives more energy to this dish.  Nevertheless, the beef bowl was classically done.  Now if there was something they could do about that price.

My idea of a happy meal.

It therefore remains no surprise why Kuretake has kept its prime spot in this upscale neighborhood.  There being only two Japanese restaurants in the immediate vicinity (if I counted right), Kuretake is the obvious better choice.  The ambiance is more hip and vibrant, and the food stays true to the traditional Japanese flavor.  The dishes are freshly prepared and perfectly seasoned, never overpowering and neither overwhelming.  The sushi selection deserves another visit from me, as I gather they come up with a few unique inventions occasionally.  The price tags however, may put off some diners.  For the same amount, you could fetch bigger and better dishes in some other place.  On second thought, people who go to Rockwell probably care less.  After all, it's the experience that still matters.

Jones

Kuretake Japanese Restaurant

Ground Level, Power Plant Mall

Rockwell Drive corner Estrella Street 

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kuretake-Philippines/48296751859

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Of Better Days: Kenji Tei Ramen House

A long long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away... There was once a small Japanese noodle house hidden among the countless establishments along Aguirre Avenue in BF Homes.  Quiet and unassuming, it had its loyal followers who almost swore to death in secrecy, never to divulge this wonderful paradise.  Well, for that matter, I had that kind of mentality anyway. And so, these photos of a by-gone era sat on my desktop folder for more than a year.  Until finally the secret was no more, with Kenji Tei moving on to greener pastures and expanding its horizons.

Sadly, some die-hard fans, like me, felt abandoned and betrayed.  You see, there was a time when Kenji Tei was that hole-in-the-wall, budget-friendly, neighborhood Japanese restaurant, an escape from the tasteless commercialism of other joints.  Let me muse about its long gone age of glory.

Back then, Kenji Tei was really cramped: it could only comfortably sit around 15 people. But it was cozy, with tall glass panes and bright lights.  Its facade was tempting and inviting.  Its interior was simple, and the food was the star.  

The menu was simple. Better yet, affordable.

On any usual visit at a Japanese restaurant, I always order my beloved favorite, the sacred dish, the beef Gyudon.  We then ordered a slew of other tasty treats.

Gyudon, (then around P200-225; now P296)

The gyudon was simply one of the best I have ever tasted.  And that says a lot.  The bowl was nearly filled to the brim.  Each slice of beef was tender and succulent, with just the right amount of fat to tease the palate and not hurt your arteries.  The radish and sliced onion did more than garnish, it balanced the sweet, salty taste of the sauce with its touch of spice and zest.  There were a few traces of shitake in the mix, but I would have preferred more.  Glaringly lacking however was the raw egg, but I believe I could have ordered it to be added. But the presentation was absolutely gorgeous that the raw egg couldn't add any more superlatives to this dish.  It was a sight to behold.

Flash forward to a more recent visit at Kenji Tei's newer location in Greenbelt 5.  Amidst the beauty and grandeur of their newer branch, I expected my order of gyudon to deliver.  Not just in the presentation, but of course in the taste.  To my utter disappointment, here is what welcomed me back:

Who put ants on my bowl of rice?

The sacred gyudon: dismantled and dismembered

It doesn't take a food genius to choose which version of the gyudon looked more inviting.  And it's not even my camera.  It was outright sacrilege to dismantle the gyudon this way.  I have never encountered such a travesty!  In my purist opinion, the gyudon is supposed to be eaten all together in one bowl, the sauce draping the wonderful white rice; the beef dripping its flavor onto the wholeness of the dish.  Not in this defiling way.  My sacred gyudon reduced to the level of what appears to be a hot plate.  All this with a hefty price increase, further adding insult to injury.  

Back to the past.  Kenji Tei dished out one of its best-sellers, and still is. The spicy cheese gyoza.  A small package packing a lot of punch.

Cheese Gyoza, (then P100-120, now P198)

Each piece was generously packed with ground pork and lovely cheese.  The spicy mayo dip was the perfect partner to this mouth-watering appetizer.  A meal in itself, I used to see some people ordering just this to-go.  A testament to this fabulous creation.  What was once a steal at just above a hundred bucks, is now overpriced at almost twice that.  I would still order this of course.  That's how good it is.

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki (then around P180-200, now P228)

Another sublime dish, the Crispy Chicken Teriyaki was a sure winner.  The teriyaki sauce embraced each piece of chicken fried to a juicy crisp.  The sauce was perfect, not too sweet, with a hint of salt.  There was once a time when BF Homes was the home of the crispy chicken teriyaki, with Little Rio's own creation ruling the west, and Kenji Tei's masterpiece lording over the east.  But that was a golden age long gone.  I haven't tried out the teriyaki again, but I fervently hope that it would still be its old self: pure bliss.

Ebi Tempura, 5 pcs. (then P220-250, now P368!)

Perhaps, one of the bigger (pun intended) reasons why I chose not to divulge this previous secret was Kenji Tei's stunning serving of the Ebi Tempura.  Each large piece of tiger prawn was lightly but lovingly dressed in the crunchy tempura batter, enticing one to immediately partake of this dish.  And when I say large, I mean REALLY large.  This was one of the biggest servings of tempura I have ever encountered, if not the biggest.  And it's not just the breading.  The shrimp was huge and fresh and succulent.  As I had my first bite, I vowed selfishly never to share this secret.  

But Kenji Tei was destined to leave its comfortable nook for the greener pastures of the Ayala malls, the first in Greenbelt 5 and the other in ATC.  And with its transfer was the inevitable escalation of prices.  (Notice that I quoted the previous prices in range, I could only roughly remember the actual previous ones.  But I'm pretty sure the prices increased by at least P50-P60 per dish).  Of course, its newly baptized followers would never complain about the price increase.  But to those who worshiped Kenji Tei in its infancy, it was sheer betrayal. What used to be an affordable Japanese indulgence was now a proud superstar.  Don't get me wrong, I still love Kenji Tei, despite its violation of my sacred gyudon.  But with its heftier price tags, its disappointing transformation of the gyudon, and now longer queues, I sadly might search for another.  One that will stand for what Kenji Tei used to deliver among the BF homies.

Feel free to chastise me for my bitter critique of Kenji Tei.  But this is the sad truth of establishments going for bigger markets.  I love Kenji Tei, and will forever be loyal to it.  Ramen enthusiasts heap praises on its new branches (I am not a ramen fan), and I believe it should be one of the best ramen houses.  But, I still hope Kenji Tei will not forget its other masterpieces, the gyudon, for one, and the chicken teriyaki, the other.  Here's hoping that someday, prices would be more reasonable (if not back to previous levels), and that Kenji Tei will return to its days of legendary lore.  For those loyal fans.

Kenji Tei Ramen House

Now with two branches:

3rd Level, Greenbelt 5 AND Alabang Town Center (near the cinemas)

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

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