Lose Your Mind at Crazy Katsu!

A couple of years ago, katsu was the "in" thing.  People would endure long queues just to be able to gobble up their favorite crunchy fillets.  Katsu places now are dime a dozen, from the perennial favorite Yabu, to the higher end Saboten, and everything in between.  The market is flooded by katsu restaurants, even fastfood joints are modifying their menu to include them.  But, unlike the ramen craze, the clamor for katsu has mellowed down.

Keeping itself under the radar, Crazy Katsu has stealthily occupied a comfortable niche in the low to mid-level market for katsu.  From its humble origins in the bustling food mecca in Maginhawa street, Crazy Katsu managed to expand its reach as far as the southern foodie haven in BF.  Just a few meters behind my home, I had been eyeing this place every time I went for an afternoon jog.

This particular branch is quite diminutive but cozy, tucked away in a small corner beside a sari-sari store and a burger bar.  Inside, around 30-40 people can comfortably seat on wooden chairs.  Despite this, it didn't feel like a cheap katsu place.  On a lazy Sunday lunchtime, the place was rather empty.  The family quickly ordered as we were all famished.

The menu was a one-pager.  Clearly, all they offered was katsu and a few other Japanese dishes.  No sushi or sashimi here, for those needing their raw fix.  But it was all good for me, as I was here to sample their best-selling katsu.  Service was understandably fast since there were only two other diners inside.

Tonkatsu, P150

I am not a big fan of chicken katsu, so I instantly selected Tonkatsu from the menu.  I kept my expectations reasonable, knowing that this is a budget joint.  It was a pleasant surprise, therefore, when my order arrived.  The size was bigger than I expected, larger than an average man's palm.

Remarkably, the fillet was also a centimeter thick.  The exterior was stunning, deep-fried to a perfect golden-brown.  At first bite, there was very little trace of oil, a welcome finding.  The coating was consistently crunchy in all parts.  The panko crumbs are light and gentle to the palate.  I always disdain katsu that have crumbs that pierce my mouth.  

The meat was flavorful but tough in some parts.  There were hints of luscious fat, but it left me wanting.  Clearly, it lacked the marbling so evident in higher-end katsu.  No ceremonious grinding of sesame seeds here, as the sauce is provided on the side.  It was a combination of sour-sweet flavor, a good accompaniment to the tonkatsu.  The shredded cabbage was generic and wasn't saved by the usual mayonnaise dressing.  Nevertheless, this was a good bargain.  Well done!

Chicken Katsu, P155

Mom picked their renowned best-seller, the Chicken Katsu variant.  Chopped cubes of chicken deep fried to a crisp came served on a bed of shredded cabbage.  Again, the serving size was a delightful surprise, seemingly more than the price tag.

The outer breading was light and crunchy, with very little panko.  Yet, it was highly addicting!  The chicken meat was tender and juicy.  Some cubes had the skin-on, retaining a cloying fatty flavor.  Still, the secret, apparently, was the soy-vinegar sauce on the side.  Spiked with red chilies, it raised the heat level a notch and added a zesty dimension.  One can request this potion drenching the chicken, but I prefer that the meat retain its crunchy texture.  Although I wasn't a big fan of ANY chicken katsu, I really enjoyed this dish.  It defended its moniker as the best-seller, indeed.

Fish and Vegetable Tempura, P150 

A non-meat eater, Dad was thankful that they had the Fish and Vegetable Tempura on the menu.  Although I was wary that they would not deliver well on this, the order looked tempting when it arrived.  Three thin fillets were lightly battered and fried to a perfect crisp.

Veggies thrown into the mix included slices of eggplants, sweet potatoes, and string beans. I didn't get to taste all but I assume it was okay, as my dad consumed them in a jiffy.

Gyoza, P130

We had a side order of gyoza, just so I could sample them.  I was missing Kenji Tei's spicy cheese gyoza, so I craved for this.  However, this was just the regular variety.

The dumplings were slightly burnt on the underside - a good sign for gyoza.  This surface was crisp, while the opposite side was smooth and soft.  The filling was warm as I had my first bite.  However, it was a tad too bitter and wanting with pork meat.  I preferred a more savory taste, and there was nothing that the soy dip could do.

Bargain bounty!

With nothing over 200 bucks, Crazy Katsu is a steal.  For that price tag, the food quality is above par, especially both chicken and pork katsu variants.  No wonder it still is a hit among students.  The other dishes though are a bit off, but these guys certainly know what they are doing with their katsu.  With the departure of Tonkatsuya in BF, Crazy Katsu should dominate the scene.  Ditch your plans for a quick katsu fix in fast-food posers.  It's better to lose your self here.  In my opinion, the best budget katsu in the country.

Jones

Crazy Katsu

231 Aguirre Street

BF Homes, Paranaque City

https://www.facebook.com/crazykatsu

   

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Ginza Bairin: The New "Old" Kid On the Block

There are always two sides to the coin: some argue that the arrival of foreign food franchises dampens the enthusiasm of locally established food fare.  On the other hand, it cannot be discounted that we could finally sample the taste and experience the higher quality of imported brands.  Whatever it is, inside my stomach, it's all the same.

But not all are truly the same.  The katsu craze has ravaged the country, with the biggest player cropping up branches like mushrooms.  It has even stimulated the birth of smaller shops that offer good katsu, without the insane queues and fully booked nights.  And then arrives two heavyweights straight from the land of the rising sun.  And the war has just begun.

I'm dreaming...

It did not take long before one of the original creators of the katsu finally came to our shores to stamp its own class.  Ginza Bairin has been churning out these delightful chops even before the Japs had ideas of Asian conquest.  This time around, its a culinary conquest, a World War III on the katsu battleground.

Still on its soft opening, Ginza Bairin has already made the news among the local food blog scene.  It wasn't surprising then that the place was packed even on a rainy Saturday lunch.  Located loftily in the swanky new Glorietta 2 wing, its doors resemble an entrance to a temple.  I wonder if this is the current architectural trend for restaurants.

Enter the dragon.

The place is quite small for a shop that's expecting a deluge of customers.  Nevertheless, the interiors are well-lit and upbeat, with its modern minimalist design and fixtures a pleasing sight to behold.

Disco balls.

The menu book almost seemed like a chic coffee table book, colorful and glossy, with fluent descriptions of what to expect.  It was tempting to bring this home altogether.

Class of '27 Photo Album.

Everything looked delectable.  But I wanted to compare their katsu with that of the local competitor, so I picked what I had before.  She opted again for seafood fare.  While waiting for our orders, I noticed the same mortar and pestle set-up for preparing the special dipping sauce.  I read somewhere that Ginza Bairin in other countries don't have this set-up, but Filipinos have grown accustomed to it, so they placed it here.  Anyway, it's a good past time while waiting for the food.

Step one: wipe your hands with the moist towelette.

Step two: grind the sesame seeds with all your strength.  Anger is advised.

Step three: open the pot containing the sauce.

Step four: pour the wonderful sauce.

Finished product. Success!

The dishes here come in sets, complete with unlimited Japanese gohan and shredded cabbage.  Hell even the miso soup and sliced pineapples are unlimited.  Gluttons rejoice!

Kurobuta Rosu Katsu Set, P595 (+10% service charge)

By now, every one knows that Kurobuta means bad-ass.  Bad-ass Berkshire black pig deep-fried to perfection.  At first sight, the serving size was a tad smaller than that of Yabu.  Indeed, at Yabu you could choose a heavier portion.  At Ginza Bairin, you have no choice but to settle for this.  But that doesn't mean it's not good.

The goodness within.

The outer shell of panko was perfectly executed: crisp but not painful to the palate.  The meat inside was firm and chunky, yet tender enough to easily ruminate on.  However, it lacked the succulent juiciness that I had first encountered at Yabu.  Moreover, I was left craving for a sliver of fat in each slice, which adds the guilty pleasure I want from a bad-ass pig.  Nevertheless, the dish was surprisingly filling, as I was left with two slices by the time I called it quits.  

The reason for the quick white flag of surrender?  The cabbage.  Strangely, these oft ignored side dish at any katsu place took the center stage.  The secret was in the sesame sauce inconspicuously sitting beside the katsu sauce pot.  There was a uniquely delicious savory taste in this sauce, such that we emptied half a bottle just between the two of us.  I have never eaten so much cabbage in one sitting in my entire life, I felt I was a goat.  I wanted to bring home the whole bottle to try it out on other dishes.  It might even taste great with the katsu!

Prawn Fry Set, P395 (+10% service charge)

These were not your ordinary puny prawns.  These were giant black tiger prawns coated with the same breading, and deep fried to a crisp you could eat them shell and all.  She figured two pieces were not enough, so an extra piece was called for.

Extra piece of Ebi Katsu, P150

It's gratifying that their menu allows such flexibility.  There are also mixed katsu sets, but you could mix and match your own with the a la carte selections.  The black tiger prawns were crunchy outside, while the meat was fresh and tender and succulent.  I got a kick sucking out the brains on each of the prawn heads.  Every nook and cranny was delectable. 

Iced Tea, P75 (+10% service charge)

All these delights needed a refreshing douse of cold drink, and the Iced Tea was the perfect companion.  Cool and subtly sweet with a hint of fresh tea leaves, you can never go wrong with this.

Another thumbs up approval.

Barely a month old in operation, Ginza Bairin has already gained a loyal crowd of followers and instilled anxiety on its main competitor.  There are a few items in their menu that Yabu does not have, and I have read that their Katsudon was other-worldly.  Nevertheless, Ginza Bairin lacks a few items too, notably the Soft-Shell Crab that was so utterly good.  

The arrival of this new "old" kid on the block heralds an era of an endless katsu war, its main armament of deeply rooted tradition in cooking perfection highlights its advantage.  The quality and freshness of its ingredients are unquestionable, the service likewise impeccable.  Only the palate can decide who the true champion of katsu will reign victorious.  Whoever it may be, the winners will always be us, the hungry diners.

Jones

Ginza Bairin

Glorietta 2 (along Palm Drive)

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/GinzaBairin.PH

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More Than Just Katsu

With katsu places sprouting up left and right all across the metro nowadays, one can not help but wonder what differs one from the other, or which resto has the upper hand.  For one, those that dedicate themselves to just the katsu dishes are almost certain to deliver fabulous and intricate creations (read: Yabu).  On the other hand, these dedicated shops may become too monotonous and could put off some people who desire more than just katsu.

So, it does pay to have a restaurant that serves great-tasting katsu dishes and, at the same time, churns out equally respectful Japanese entrees.  Diversity is the daughter of invention, if I may say so myself.  And on a special date night like this, diversity triumphed over specialty.  

Off to the Fort Strip we went, to a place known not only for katsu dishes, but also for its yakitori offerings.  Located amidst high-end resto-bars and gastro-pubs, the facade of Katsu poses an almost intimidating sight.  Dimly-lit interiors, wooden panels, and darkly-hued signages impose a gritty feel.  But, beneath all these is a cheery and accommodating staff, and a simple and quaint vibe within.  None of the loud blaring music of adjacent pubs here.  It's the perfect romantic date night place.

Dark and imposing, yet vibrant within

Both of us were not hardcore fans of yakitori (especially on a hungry night like this), so we opted to try out Katsu's other offerings.  And their menu did not disappoint.  It was straightforward Japanese cuisine, sans the flowery words and grandiose descriptions.  The menu simply told us what we wanted.  And we wanted a lot.

Dynamite Roll, P245 (+service charge)

To get the fire started, we ordered the spicy Dynamite Roll.  True to its name, the Dynamite Roll detonates with a fiery kick and a playful texture.  The salmon skin and meat was tender, and the cream cheese did not overpower the merry mix of flavors.  A sure fire way to start the night.

Hire Katsu, P275 (+service charge)

Famed for its katsu dishes, we were much obliged to order the Hire (pork tenderloin) Katsu.  Crispy on the outside, yet the meat was tender and flavorful on the inside.  However, it pales much in comparison to the specialized version of Yabu.  But, as I mentioned above, Yabu clearly and solely specializes on katsu dishes, and you should expect it to be the best.  Katsu, on the other hand, still does not disappoint with its own version, while offering many more options on their menu.  Served with a generous siding of cabbage and cucumber, the dish was cleverly arranged and the size commensurate with the price.  I still enjoyed this dish but I couldn't finish it all up, so I brought the rest home.  It tasted great even the following day.

Tori No Teriyaki, P255 (+service charge)

Just to get a slight hint of how their grilled (yakitori) dishes taste like, we opted for the chicken teriyaki.  And this ranks high up there on my all-time best chicken teriyaki dish (number one of course, is still the Little Rio version).  Perfectly grilled with the crisp, smokey skin, with the meat underneath tender and juicy.  The sweet-salty teriyaki sauce amps up the flavor, with liberal amounts draping the lovely chicken pieces.  Served with sidings of grilled carrots, asparagus tops, and small potatoes, this alone is testament to what I was telling you about.  There was more to Katsu than just its namesake.

Ebi Tempura, P395 (+service charge)

Of course, the ubiquitous shrimp tempura was not absent that night.  I don't recall if this was available as a 3-piece set, but the 5-piece set was adequately sized.  There was nothing fancy with the tempura though.  The breading was light yet crunchy, and the shrimp was tender and fresh.  My only reservation was that the size of the shrimp itself seemed incongruous to the price.  At more than 400 bucks (with service charge), I knew I could find bigger tempura at other joints, for a lesser price.  Still, the ambiance of Katsu quelled my reservations, as I still thoroughly enjoyed the tempura.

Katsu deserves praise for not sticking to just a single specialty.  In spite of its misleading name, its menu offers a mix of flavors, while getting it right on their katsu dishes, of course.  Despite its darker exteriors, the staff was amiable.  They even offered to store the cake we brought, and were sensitive enough to dim the lights when we lit the candles.  Needless to say, the staff took our pictures without apprehension.  For such commendable service and an even more congenial ambiance, the prices are definitely acceptable and reasonable.  Not to mention, the food was delectable and cleverly crafted.  Notwithstanding its location among the bars and pubs (I believe its upper deck is also a bar), Katsu is a shining gem.  An unmistakable choice for any special night.

Estrel's Caramel Cake (not included in the menu, of course)

Katsu Japanese Grill

Unit E Fort Entertainment Complex

5th Avenue, BGC, Taguig City

https://www.facebook.com/KatsuJapaneseGrill

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Tonkatsuya: The Way of The Katsu Warrior

Many foodies would agree, myself included, that the Philippine food scene is in a state of massive upheaval.  Take the example of the Japanese restaurant in the metro: gone are the days of dark nooks tucked ostensibly in the shady streets of Manila, replete with barely visible windows and ominous red lanterns looming intimidatingly outside, as if gangs of Yakuza were holding clandestine meetings within.  Nowadays, Japanese joints are brightly lit, hip and urban, inviting massive throngs of hungry people and catering to particular dishes: be it yakiniku, ramen, or the popular katsu.

I once remembered that I didn't fancy katsu dishes not so long ago.  I was more fond of the heavenly gyudon, often paired with a serving of crisp tempura.  To me, katsu dishes were painful - literally.  Those bread crumbs smothering the meat were often too spiky and would leave my palate a harsh reminder.  But then again, it is the prevailing craze nowadays, so I tried to ride on the bandwagon.

Tonkatsuya was pretty famous, some say notorious, even before I found out about it through food blogs.  Makati people new about this shangri-la and often would swear it in secrecy.  Its notoriety was born out of the difficulty in looking for it, hence, a true shangri-la.  Compounding that was the equally scary stories of parking woes.  However, the clamor for another branch soon led to its  birth down south, just a stone's throw away from my home.  I didn't pass up the chance to try its much talked-about specialties. 

This branch in BF Homes was in stark contrast to its mother branch (which I have never visited, but only read about it in blogs).  It was a converted house, with the front yard providing ample parking space.  A big store sign was right out front, as if screaming to people to try this out.  And so, I hoped these were the only differences, and the taste should be pretty much similar to its original branch.

I was with my family, so each of us ordered a set meal, which actually makes up most of their menu.  Mind you, there are no sushi / sashimi dishes offered here, as they exclusively specialize in their beloved katsu. 

Thus said, I proceeded to order - a tempura set! Much as I wanted to try out the herikatsu set, I figured mom and dad would order it, so I beat them to the punch.  Anyway, I could always grab a piece of theirs.  As my order arrived, I almost instantly regretted my choice. 

Ebi Tempura Set, P340

At first glance, each piece of shrimp seemed bloated with too much batter.  Although five shrimps was a good number, I feared the batter concealed baby shrimps inside.  Thankfully, as I took my first bite, these were regular-sized shrimps.  However, the batter was really too thick it felt like eating a waffle-dog.  Adding insult to injury, the tempura sauce was too diluted and practically lacked flavor. I thought to myself, why did I even order a tempura dish in a katsu place??

But redemption beckoned.  Good thing I sampled the other dishes which saved my impression for this restaurant.  The Mixed Fry set consisted of 3 medium-sized slabs of herikatsu pork and a regular-sized ebi fry.  And my, it was a great combination, akin to a Japanese surf n' turf.

 Mixed Fry Set, P290

Each herikatsu piece was crisp and plump, yet tender on the inside.  However, it still paled in comparison to the other katsu (enter: Yabu), as it lacked the distinct juicy aspect of the latter.  The katsu sauce was quite good, but without the intricacy of Yabu.  A generous siding of cabbage with Japanese mayo complimented this hearty dish.  The prawn was regular-sized, fresh and succulent.  Drown these morsels with sips of your miso soup, and you're all set. For people who want to try out both pork and seafood at the same time (and eat with selfish picky buddies), this is an easy choice.

Mom was always fond of katsu, but this time she opted for the Chicken Katsu set.  I got to try out a few pieces, and the meat was a tad dry.  The crisp covering and the overflowing katsu sauce made up for it, but I expected more oomph from this dish.  

Chicken Katsu Set, P210

Overall, the katsu experience was quite fulfilling, save for the slight tempura disappointment.  (I should have known better).  And browsing through the menu, each item was reasonably priced for a specialty restaurant.  Comparisons with Yabu abound, with Yabu winning in virtually all aspects.  There are no ceremonious grinding of sesame here, no pageantry in presentation, and no pomp in flavor.  Tonkatsuya, however, may just be the next-best-thing.  The service is prompt, the dishes warm and well-cooked, the flavor satisfactory.  No fuss, no frills, just delivering what you expect for your money.  And for those simple reasons, I would definitely come back and try out their other katsu dishes (no more messing with tempura this time).  Not surprisingly, Tonkatsuya has its loyal disciples, both north and south of the border.  It owes its reputation to its strict, almost bushido-like code of cooking: it does its duty and delivers.

Tonkatsu-ya Restaurant

252 Aguirre Avenue

BF Homes Paranaque City

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