Quick Thai Escape: Thai Express
Singapore is truly a mish-mash of various cultures and cuisines. Unlike Filipino cuisine which has seamlessly merged the different flavors of our colonizers, each race here has managed to retain its distinct taste. Nevertheless, one unifying tie that binds the dominant cultures in Singapore is their common love for anything spicy. As such, it is relatively easy to find a good Thai food outlet whether it be a humble hawker stall or a sprawling five star restaurant.
Nearly ubiquitous around the maze of malls in Singapore is a Thai food spot that catches ones' attention with its large bright red signage promising to deliver a quick good meal. Often full during dinner time, the snaking queue kindled our longing for that Thai flavor and our curiosity pushed us to try it out.
On the inside, the restaurant seemed unpretentious. Although a few decorations seemed trying hard to add an authentic Thai vibe, the look and feel remained as if this was a quick-serve, almost fast food type of joint. Nevertheless, we let their food speak for itself. The menu book was large and colorful, adeptly highlighting their best-sellers and cautiously warning which dishes had a hotness alert. Of course, the latter caught our eye!
With two small chili icons next to its listing on the menu, I bravely picked the Khao Neua Phat Krapow. A name that long should pack a punch, I hope.
Khao Neua Phat Krapow (Rice with Stir-Fried Spicy Minced Beef with Thai Basil, SGD 12.60, +7% GST and 10% service charge)
The dish looked messy and sloppy, almost failing in presentation. Still, the tell-tale signs of chopped red and green chilies was an exciting omen. I took my first bite and felt nothing. However, with each successive portion, I noticed the heat building up. They hit the right level of spiciness spot-on.
Red alert: red chilies!
But the dish was not just all about spice. Swimming in a tangy, slightly sweet sauce, the flavor penetrated each strip of beef, combining an other-worldly mix of tastes. The meat itself was generously portioned, not the paper-thin strips you often encounter in fast-food beef bowls. A cup of white jasmine rice was the perfect companion for each spicy bite. Another cup would definitely not hurt.
Wanting to go seafood for the next dishes, we picked a peculiar, almost out-of-place item on the list. Having tried a number of Thai restaurants back home, it was queer to find such a dish on their menu. But apparently it was quite popular, so we gave it a go.
Poo Phat Pong Kari (Rice with Soft Shell Crab, Egg, and Onion Curry, SGD 12.90, +7% GST and 10% service charge)
The soft shell crab was a sight to behold. Nestled on a bed of fresh green lettuce, the crab sat proudly like a king. Adorning its crown was the aromatic yellow-brown curry sauce and a sprinkling of chopped onions. A royal dish fit for a king.
But one must see beyond its appearance. At first bite, the exterior was soft but retained its crunchy texture, proof that much attention was given to the frying process. The crab meat was briny and fresh, the juices dripping with each bite. The curry sauce was difficult to comprehend, yet wonderfully cloying. It was a mix of saltiness from the scrambled egg, and the piquant taste of the secret spices of the curry. It meshed well with the crab's own saline taste. No wonder they often run out of this popular item.
No trip to a Thai restaurant would be complete without sampling their version of the famous, often over-interpreted Tom Yum soup. An all-time favorite and easy pick, we chose the all-seafood version for this trip.
Tom Yum Talay (Tom Yum Seafood Soup, SGD 9.50, +7% GST and 10% service charge)
I wasn't having high expectations for this version, with its tamer appearance at first glance. The serving size was barely enough for two persons, and it seemed they scrimped on the contents. I could make out a few pieces of shrimps and some morsels of squid; other than that, it was all liquid the rest of the way.
Hooray I found one!
Despite its puny size, the shrimp was juicy, firm, and fresh. The chopped pieces of squid was sweet and not chewy. Still, the broth was quite subdued and mellow. The sourness was just right, but the spicy level was almost childish. And this was even when we requested for it to be on the hotter side. Nevertheless, their version did not fail but did not impress too much either. I've had more unforgettable experiences with that Thai hawker stall in Maxwell.
On another visit to Thai Express (Kaffir and Lyme, a variant joint by the same group), another dish caught my fancy. This time, I was craving for beef curry and sought to try out the Massaman Beef Curry.
Massaman Beef Curry, SGD 14.90 (+7% GST and +10% service charge)
Upon first glance, one would be misled to think this is just your ordinary Indian curry. Apparently, Massaman style curry indeed had both Malay and Indian influences, and then subsequently adapted as the Thai's own. Looking beyond the debate regarding its origins, the dish easily became one of my most-loved.
Three meaty mounds of beef were nearly submerged the fragrant brownish-orange curry sauce. The sauce had a nutty, slightly sweet taste, and a consistency with just the right thickness. The spice level was executed well, not overpowering, yet not too tame either. But the beef took center stage. The meat was fork-tender and flavorful on its own, with the flavors of the curry sauce penetrating every sinew. The serving size was big enough such that I had to take home the rest. And it even tasted better the next day after i reheated it. Served with Thai-style pancakes, I opted for a bowl of rice and never regretted it.
Thai Express, supposedly, is a locally crafted brand. But it has managed to capture the unique Thai taste and lent its own Singaporean twist to each dish. Not expecting too much from a casual sit-down restaurant, service was quite okay and prompt. Still, it was annoying that they charge you for asking for house water, considering most of the dishes are spicy and you will inevitably need to douse the flames.
Nevertheless, the prices are quite commensurate with the size of the portions. Their best-sellers hit all the right notes and proved their popularity. Although there may be some inconsistencies among branches. In the end, Thai Express is more than just a quick fix: it's a quick escape to authenticity in the culinary melting pot of Singapore.
Jones
Thai Express
VivoCity
1 HarbourFront Walk
#B2-30
Singapore
Kaffir & Lime (by Thai Express)
Paragon
290 Orchard Road
#B1-45/45, The Paragon
Singapore
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