Time Has Come: Tim Ho Wan
Dim sum shops are dime a dozen in any place with Chinese heritage, be it Binondo in the Philippines or Little China here in Singapore. No dumpling has ever been bastardized as the lowly siomai or shew mai, whatever it's called in wherever part of the world. From the dirty stainless steel steaming racks of cart vendors back home, to the sweltering stalls of hawkers here, the formula remains similar and simple. Dim sum is a quick way to get your fill of hearty, homey good food.
Despite its ubiquitous nature, it is always a refreshing news to learn about dim sum joints that seek to up the ante, aiming to re-establish the dim sum on its lofty status. I'm not talking about the run-of-the-mill Chinese restaurants back home. (Don't get me wrong, I love getting my quick chicken feet and pork spare ribs fix at Luk Yuen or Mongkok Dimsum). I'm harping about the famous dim sum dedicated restaurant soon to hit our beloved Philippine shores. It's one Chinese invasion that we would rather have.
Coming soon: An invasion of bite-sized proportions.
Even if this is a long overdue blog post, I knew it was timely to talk about it, a mere days before it formally launches. I was fortunate enough to sample it here in Singapore, and here's hoping that the taste remains consistent once it opens in our own country. Waiting outside among the queue seats, poring over the accolades was intimidating yet reassuring at the same time. Tim Ho Wan was like the reigning MVP of dim sum. But was it all hype? Was it just the nonsensical whims of some socialite critic?
The trophy cabinet.
The place was quite neat and simple. No scary dragon fixtures, no burnt incense smell, no enchanting aura. The place was all about the dim sum, as I spied them humbly housed among the wooden circular racks. Even less dissuading was their straightforward menu, flashed basically on a paper that doubles as your place mat. A bit disconcerting, yes, perhaps giving it a fast-food feel. But wait until you sample their offerings, all for a reasonable price.
No, you can't put your dim sum on the paper. Those aren't fries.
Our gracious host that day knew exactly what to order first. After all, it's the first impression that lasts. But, browsing through their paper menu, it seemed that the choices were limited, compared to our familiar restaurants back home. Was it quality over quantity?
The three little pigs. Or kings. Whatever.
These three unassuming buns were the first to arrive. They looked so mundane, so unappealing. They reminded me of those sweet buns I used to eat from Julie's bakeshop.
Baked Bun with BBQ Pork, SGD 4.50 (approx. PHP 160)
Everyone was famished at this time, so I also quickly grabbed a piece and bit into it. Time stopped. Emotions rushed as the flavors gushed forth. The bun itself was warm and soft, yet maintaining a slight crusty texture, the top and bottom baked perfectly. There was a hint of sweetness in the bread, an inviting clue to what lies inside.
Heaven in a bun.
Inside was a wonderful mix of minced pork cooked tenderly and bursting with a tantalizing mix of savory and sweet flavors. Munching through each bun was an adventure of textures, one goes from crisp, to soft, to melt-in-your-mouth soft as you reach the pork simmered lovingly in their secret barbecue sauce. Needless to say, I had three pieces on my own and would have had more, if I didn't order any rice. Clearly, this truly was the dish that made their name.
Chicken, Sausage, and Mushroom Rice, SGD 6.00 (approx. PHP 200)
It seems irrational to order rice at a dim sum joint, but don't we Filipinos love to pair siomai with rice? Still, it soon became a stupid decision, if only that the rice stuffed me too much, too soon, with all the dim sum dishes that were soon to arrive. However, the Chicken, Sausage, and Mushroom Rice (a name so long, I wish they'd come up with a shorter one) did not disappoint.
A heavy serving.
Filled to the brim with chunks of smooth and tender chicken, with pieces of Chinese sausage (chorizo to us), and large portions of mushroom - the dish was epic. Drizzled with sweet tangy sauce, there was a play of both taste and texture. The salty and gritty chorizo, the smooth and sweet chicken, and the gutty and herbal taste of mushrooms all synced in harmony. If there were no other dim sum dishes, this dish was already the meal itself.
Beancurd Skin Roll with Shrimp, SGD 5.50 (approx. PHP 200)
Every Pinoy loves lumpia or spring roll, whether it be the veggie version (toge or beansprouts) or shanghai style (ground pork). But what about this, a seafood version stuffed generously with plump shrimps? The deep fried wrap was perfectly executed, and inside was a warm serving of shrimp and carrots, among other stuff. Dip it into the chili, and your day is made.
Steamed Beancurd Skin Roll with Pork and Shrimp, SGD 4.00 (approx. PHP 145)
Curiously, they also serve a steamed version, with pork included. Obviously, this caters to those who love to have it messy and dripping in their face. Green jokes aside, this dish was equally enticing and filling, as the scent and the flavor of the sweet and tangy sauce circulated within the wooden dim sum containers. (What do they call those anyway?)
Prawn Dumpling, SGD 5.50 (approx. PHP 200)
A common sight in most Chinese restaurants, the prawn dumpling of Tim Ho Wan stood out simply because it was all prawn. No fillers here, it's just prawn draped so lightly by the thin wrapper. Fresh and plump prawns oozing with succulence. A dip in the chili or soy sauce is the perfect complement.
Pork Dumpling with Shrimp, SGD 5.00 (approx. PHP 180)
What's a dim sum trip without pork siomai? These dumplings were leveled up as they were stuffed with small shrimps. Once again, Tim Ho Wan doesn't scrimp on ingredients. The dumplings were fat with pork and shrimp filling, it was like biting on a meatball. With wrapper. The juices dripped with each bite, the texture firm and inviting. The highest evolution a siomai could ever be.
Steamed Spinach Dumpling with Shrimp, SGD 3.80 (approx. PHP 138)
Don't we just love shrimp? But this time, we had it embraced with some spinach for a good healthy measure. These steamed dumplings were at par in taste, but it still was not too popular, maybe just because of the spinach. Nevertheless, a good choice for those watching their cholesterol levels.
My personal favorite in dim sum shops, the pork spare ribs were so tempting as it swam in its savory oily goodness. The mere sight of the chopped chili on top kept my heart racing, as I grabbed my first bite.
Pork Rib with Black Bean Sauce, SGD 4.20 (approx. PHP 150)
The flavor was locked in as it steamed in its own juices. The meat was tender and melting, even the bones and cartilaginous parts were subdued. Immersed in black bean sauce and chili oil, Tim Ho Wan's version was a cut above the rest. It would have been perfect sitting atop a mound of white rice.
It was now clear why Tim Ho Wan deserves heaping praises and even longer queues. The humble dim sum was elevated to star status. Never has a lowly bun been worshiped like a golden idol. I figured I could finish 10 pork buns in one sitting. Despite its intimidating accolades, prices are surprisingly reasonable.
Soon enough, more Filipinos will be mesmerized with these adorable dim sum offerings, as Tim Ho Wan is set to open on May 20th at the SM Mega Fashion Hall. So let my blog whet your appetite and wet your imagination for the meantime. Still, I hope prices in the Philippine stores would be competitive and the food quality consistent. Let me know soon once you guys have tried it out.
Jones
Tim Ho Wan Restaurant
68 Orchard Road, #01-29A
Plaza Singapura
Singapore
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