Yabu: The Lord of Katsu
So goes the saying, if you can't beat them, join them. Not so long ago, I spotted this new Japanese restaurant within the deep bowels of SM Megamall. It was fresh, seemed upbeat, and truly Japanese with its minimalist interiors. There were a few diners inside, while there was no line out front. One of the receptionists was eagerly chirping about their menu to some curious passers-by and hungry onlookers. I shrugged off my encounter that day. Barely a few weeks later, I glimpsed upon the same shop, and lo and behold, there was a long queue outside. This went on for the next few days I managed to drop by Megamall, and I soon looked at the long lines disdainfully, thinking, "I would never stupidly fall in line for that darn restaurant". Just because it was a restaurant that SOLELY served katsu dishes. I figured this shop won't last, because it was too specialized.
I don't hate katsu, but I'm rather not fond of it. Those breadcrumbs frequently were too spiky and sharp that eating them was more often than not, a painful experience. Compounding my general dislike of katsu was that it was sadly degraded and demoted by fast food joints, such that the dish had lost its sanctity. Of course, I was madly in love with the beef Gyudon, and I would rather have a tempura than a porcupine katsu. But those long lines soon fueled my curiosity, leading me to investigate on-line. Needless to say, those food blogs glorified this restaurant exclusively devoted to katsu alone. I finally surrendered to temptation and joined the bandwagon.
If there was a kami (god) of katsu, this was it.
But those terribly long queues were consistently discouraging, until Yabu, the House of Katsu, finally opened another branch in the brand spanking new Robinson's Magnolia. It didn't suffer the long lines (yet), so on an appropriate night, I picked this spot. It carried over the same basic theme of their flagship store: wooden finishings and tables, bright lights, and large panels with black-and-white manga cartoons. Yet soon I would learn that all the pomp and pageantry were in their delectable meals.
Tales of Yabu
A tall order.
The menu book was large and clumsy, likely to enhance the description of their dishes. But it was commendably presented, with large colorful pictures and flowery tales of each item. I had browsed some blogs long before, so I knew what to order. It had to be the best of the best, just to see if Yabu was worth the hype.
As we waited for our orders, I began preparing their signature dipping sauce. A testament to Yabu's dedication to detail, each mortar seemed made of a wooden branch, while the grinder was grooved to facilitate the disintegration of the sesame seeds. There was a ceramic pot filled with their secret sauce. Just fixing up this sole condiment was akin to the tea ceremony, intricate and refined.
Prepping the sauce. Not with lemonade or tea, of course.
In eager anticipation, my excitement was building up as I ground the seeds and poured the sauce. When our orders arrived, I almost humbly bowed in adoration. Both were masterpieces.
Kurobuta Pork Set (90g), P515 (+10% service charge)
The Kurobuta, or the Black Berkshire pig, is hailed as the piggiest of all pigs. Why? Well it's all in the meat. This rosu cut was shaved off the bad-ass of all pigs, consisted of nearly an inch thick of succulent meat, and deep-fried to a perfection. Perfection because the breading did not graze my palate. It was crisp, yet thin enough just to teasingly hide the goodness inside. The meat was plump, with a cloying layer of luscious fat. With each bite, the juice dripped slowly from each piece. The katsu sauce uplifted the flavor even more. Each set was served with an unlimited amount of cabbage and rice, a piping hot bowl of miso soup, and a few slices of fresh fruits to seal the deal. All these were arranged in precise order, with a neat-looking grill to allow the excess oil to drip slowly away. I ordered the 90 gram option, yet it was more than enough to satisfy my cravings. Those with bigger appetites can select the heftier 120 gram for just an additional 60 bucks. Now I know why people line up for this.
Soft Shell Crab Set, P480 (+10% service charge)
Everything here in Yabu is practically coated with panko (Japanese breadcrumbs). A relatively new addition to their wide-ranging menu was the soft-shell crab. These delectable crabs had recently shed their old shells, so that their new shells were softer and easier to digest. Too bad for them, very fortunate for us. These babies were fresh and oozing with juices, as if they had just imbibed all the bounty of the sea. The breading was crunchy, with the meat falling apart with each bite. You could practically consume everything, shell and all. Nothing wasted. Maybe just you, after consuming these heavy meals. The set comes with the generic cabbage and rice, the perfect partner for such a pleasant experience.
Right from the start, Yabu is not simply a restaurant. It is an experience. A dive into another world were katsu is king. In here, you don't just bite and swallow in fifteen minutes. You don't just eat, you internalize. Heck, with those price tags, you're entitled to slowly ruminate for more than hour. Still, the cost is worth it, simply because there is no other joint that serves this dish with such grandeur. The only gripe I could think of was the size of the crab, which I hoped would be larger for that price tag.
Nevertheless, Yabu has set the standard, and a pretty high one at that. With the stiff competition soon invading our shores (Saboten, here I come!), Yabu remains atop its lofty pedestal because it has pioneered the katsu craze here. With branches spreading all around our islands, nothing appears to end the dominance of the Lord of all Katsu.
Yabu: The House of Katsu
Ground Floor, Robinson's Magnolia
Aurora Boulevard corner Dona M. Hemady Avenue
Valencia, Quezon City
http://www.yabu.ph
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