Meaty Monstrosity: El Chupacabra

Legend tells of a mythical, mysterious creature that feasts on the blood of livestock, terrorizing the Latin American countryside.  This hideous beast is often described as a bear-sized monster studded with spiny outgrowths - almost an other-worldly being.

It is curious how this brainchild of the proprietors of Mexicali is aptly named.  The only creatures feasting here are the hungry miscreants of Makati night-life, eagerly stuffing themselves silly either before or after a night of partying.  Yet the name is catchy, mysterious even.  Finding it is an adventure itself - tucked away in the bowels of Poblacion.

El Chupacabra has built its legend on the strength of the social network, powered by Instagram and Zomato and whatever food-sharing app.  The place is not too shabby, neither is it intimidating.  It consists of a modified flat, with tables set al fresco albeit in a haphazard way - much like a fly-by-night carinderia.  Yes, complete with the obligatory roadside barbecue grill where the good stuff goes on.  The lighting inside is sinister red, illuminating the crowds consisting of a mix of locals and boisterous Japanese ex-pats.

A hot, humid hell house it is - a perfect setting for sampling even hotter Mexican fare.  We settled for two kinds of quesadillas, but I proceeded to be more adventurous with an order of their signature wings from Hades.

Gringas, Carne Asada, P195 (+10% service charge)

The quesadilla collection, coined as Gringas, is a myriad of selections that should cater to everyone- from all-meat to pure veggies.  The Carne Asada consists of thin slices of steak eneveloped by glorious melted cheese.  The flour wraps are light and toasted perfectly, as evidenced by blackish-brown stains.  The steak meat is bliss - soft and tender, oozing with its natural juices.  Such a pity that the strips are too few in between - but still enough to tickle one's fancy.  The cheese is gooey, sticky, yet not overpowering.  The dips are almost unnecessary, but the chimichurri blends well with the wraps.  Truly a bargain for the meat-lovers.

Gringas, Cheese, Garlic and Onion, P125 (+10% service charge)

I picked a non-meat version of the Gringas, but nonetheless lip-smacking good.  Four thin quesadilla filled with gooey cheese arrived with an unmistakable aroma.  The wraps were seared and toasted well on the exterior.

Though the wraps could use more fillings, the zest added by the garlic and onion was a welcome change in flavor.  Again, the green chimichurri dip works best with this dish.

Lord of the Wings, P250 (+10% service charge)

The main reason why I opted for a non-meat wrap - the Lord of the Wings.  The name was catchy and interesting, especially for a night when I was craving for fried chicken wings.  Their version of the classic buffalo wings was a sight to behold - the sauce was generously and lovingly draping every part of the wings.

I was hyped up for the wings - but the first bite was a bit of deflating.  The wings had arrived cold!  I wasn't sure if it was due to the sauce that they probably stored in a cooler.  Or my plate might have gone cold as it was the last item to arrive.  Nevertheless, the meat inside was juicy and flavorful.  The skin was inconsistent though - crisp in some parts, questionable in others.  However, prepare your taste buds for some torment.  The sauce is fiery - straight from Hades.  The first stain on your lips is deceptively mild, but as you bite through one piece, all hell breaks loose.  Sour and zesty, their homemade sauce is consistently and painfully hot, yet enjoyable.  Dip it in the accompanying blue cheese dip to tame the flavors a bit.  

I managed to finish off the dish, with a little help from my friends.  It was highly addicting and should be popular for spicy sadists.  The size of each wing joint was average, smaller than dedicated wing restaurants like Wingman and the like.  Still, at 250 bucks, it's a good bar chow to share or naughty dish to order if you feel like having it all for yourself.

It seems strange that despite the longevity of Mexicali in the local Mexican food scene, it is their side show El Chupacabra that has exploded in popularity.  Perhaps the adventure of finding this humble street side nook is part of the charm it exudes.  Perhaps tales of dirt cheap burritos and tacos and honest-to-goodness Pinoy-style barbecue (yes, it is also a best seller) piques the interest of foodies.  Or perhaps the folk lore of hungry chupacabras devouring flavorful meat lures the hunters themselves.  Try the spicy goat burrito next time and truly one will transform into a real goat-sucker, El Chupacabra.

Jones

 El Chupacabra

5782 Felipe corner Polaris Street

Bel-Air, Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/Elchupacabraph

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Going Mad at Mad Marks!

Most people have their own set of comfort food.  It's that kind of food that instantly transports one home at a single bite, or sends rushes of endorphins and feel-good hormones at the mere sight of it.  Or that type of food that brings back memories, complete with a soundtrack playing in the background.

For me, my default choices are usually Japanese fare and American diner food.  So, it was just a matter of time, ever since I came back home, before I succumbed to my cravings.

I had been eyeing Mad Mark's ever since they opened in Kapitolyo just a couple of years back.  But I didn't get a chance to visit their flagship store then.  It was a welcome sight that I saw their signage radiating brightly from the windows of Glorietta 5 in Makati.  Images of greasy American food zipped across my mind.

Their branch in Makati was small but apparently larger than their original store. It was a weekday dinner and the place was packed, cramped, and noisy.  The smokey aroma from the kitchen was obvious once you stepped inside - a gripe for some people.  The menu was straightforward and familiar, a mix of Tex-Mex American food with a little twist.

Churrasco, P245 (+10% service charge)

The missus picked something light for dinner, the Churrasco, a soft shell-taco type of meal.  Two medium-sized wraps burst open with a colorful array of fillings.  The garnishing of green bell peppers, red onions, and caramelized onions made for an interesting zesty taste.  The wrap itself was soft enough and not tough to chew.

Something that we thought was light on the stomach was actually not.  The Churrasco was pregnant with meat and, lo and behold, rice!  The cheese was also distinct, and blended well with the overall theme.  The meat was USDA beef, and indeed it tasted high grade.  Tender and flavorful, I almost regretted not ordering the actual steak!

Surprise, surprise!  We weren't able to finish both wraps and had to bring home the rest.  Amazingly, the Churrasco tasted good the following day, even after reheating.

I went on to surrender to my whims - baby back ribs, of course!  Attractively priced at under 300 bucks, I had doubts about the quality of their ribs.

Johnnie Double Black Ribs, Half Slab, P245 (+10% service charge)

The half slab serving initially looked too small for me, but again, surprisingly, it got me filled up easily.  The ribs were generously glazed with their signature barbecue sauce, with just the right sweetness and tangy flavor.  The meat was fork tender, with a notable smokey flavor.  It was good and did not taste cheap.  But, it was not as superb as the more dominant restaurants serving ribs.

Interestingly, I adored the sides of corn and carrots and smashed potatoes it came with.  Not exactly a fan of potatoes (except french fries), I was pleasantly impressed by the salty mix of mashed potatoes and creamy gravy.  It was highly addicting, perhaps explaining why I became so full so quickly.  The corn also deserved praise, with its buttery delight and a secret powder (probably dry spice rub) sprinkled on it that made the difference.

Ragin' Cajun Wings, P150 (+10% service charge)

We were actually craving for buffalo wings that night before I spotted Mad Mark's, so I thought it was comforting to see this on the menu.  It looked and sounded nice, promising a sweet and spicy experience.  Sadly though, on my first bite, it was a salty and bitter bad memory.

The wings were overcooked and burnt!  Tell-tale signs of blackened outer coating left me gasping in exasperation.  The cajun sauce was a tad too sour and lacked the level of hotness I wanted.  It could not compensate for the bitter taste of burnt breading.  The exterior was crisp and the chicken meat was fine, but lacked flavor.  The chopped onion leeks did nothing to help save the dish.  It was almost painful to finish a paltry two pieces of wings.  When I pointed out this sacrilege to their waitstaff, their only excuse was that this kind of stuff really happens.  Really? How come I have never encountered burnt wings in my entire life in places like Buffalo's, Flaming Wings, Wingman, hell, even the budget B. Wings?  It was an utter disappointment.

Nevertheless, it might have been a case of right restaurant, wrong order.  Although, the Churrasco was a revelation and a hint that I should have ordered their best-selling steaks.  The ribs were fine and I would go back for it if I was craving for a quick escape for a budget homey meal of my favorite baby back ribs.  But, on a hungrier (and wealthier) night, I would return and sample their steaks.  The wings though, are an entirely different story.  Forgettable and regrettable, one would be better off skedaddling to the nearby Buffalo's Wings N' Things.  For a few bucks more, you'd get correctly and honestly done buffalo wings.  But perhaps for everything else (especially steak and ice cream), Mad Mark's should be able to deliver on their premise of honest good food.

Jones

Mad Mark's Creamery and Good Eats

2/F, Glorietta 5, Office Drive

Ayala Center, Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/MadMark.Creamery.and.Good.Eats

  

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Kenji Tei: Revisited, Redeemed

Some restaurants are just hard to forget, especially when they are close to your heart.  Never mind the change in venue, never mind the escalation of prices, never mind the tweaking of the menu.  When you know the food is still good, it's difficult to resist the temptation to pay them another visit.

Despite my previous rants about Kenji Tei (see here) and its inevitable changes, the mere knowledge at the back of my mind that they still serve one of the best Japanese comfort food is enough to entice me to choose Kenji Tei for a quick lunch at a snap of a finger.  Especially when it's past lunch time and my stomach had been grumbling for more than an hour.  The mere sight of their white and red signage was enough to raise my white flag of surrender.  Images of tempura soon wallow in my mind.

I missed you.

Kenji Tei has found a home on its lofty perch in Greenbelt 5, going toe to toe with the other classy restaurants here.  Easily fully occupied during any lunch or dinner time on any given day, its move to a high-end mall has done it wonders.  With a chic interior, a nice view of the Greenbelt garden below, and hip vibe, Kenji Tei is one of the sought after ramen places in town.  However, I still miss its homey feel that it used to exude back when it was cozily located in BF.

A happier home.

Still wary of the deconstruction of their Gyudon, I chose to avoid ordering it so as not to disappoint my day.  Instead, I wanted to sample my previous favorites which I raved about before, even with the current heftier price tags.  I wanted to see if they maintained the quality and taste of their best-sellers, enough to bring back my happy memories of the better days of Kenji Tei.

Cheese Gyoza, P198 (+10% service charge)

Always a fire starter, the Cheese Gyoza is the best way to jump start your lunch.  Some like their gyoza lightly fried with some parts of the skin soft.  But Kenji Tei does it differently, and has always done so consistently since its BF days.  The gyoza is perfectly deep fried to a crisp, yet retaining its internal softness once you bite into it.  Fully stuffed with pork meat blended with divine cheese, the mixture is magical.  Addictive in every bite, the spicy mayo dip amps up the explosion of taste dancing around on your tongue.  Perfect either as stand alone or a companion to your rice or ramen, the cheese gyoza is a best seller as evidenced by the fact that this was the last order left for that day.  Lucky us!

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki, P228 (+10% service charge)

One of the best things to ever happen to chicken, Kenji Tei delivers a unique twist to an old-time favorite.  With each bite, I distinctly remember my first moment with this inventive creation.  Only one other crispy chicken teriyaki could stand up to Kenji Tei (the Little Rio version).  Each morsel consists of a thin crispy chicken skin enveloping the succulent and tender meat within.  But the fun doesn't end there.  The teriyaki sauce is a merry mix of sweet and salty, necessitating a cup of rice as the perfect partner.  Best consumed immediately, it's comforting to realize that the quality of this dish has been maintained immaculately.

Gohan, P68 (+10% service charge)

Of course, a Japanese meal will never be complete without a serving of tempura.  My fondest memory of Kenji Tei was back then when we were served one of the largest prawn tempura I had ever seen.  My eyes popped out of their sockets.  And so, here I was again waiting anxiously for our order of tempura, hoping it would not disappoint.

Ebi Tempura (5 pcs), P368 (+10% service charge)

At first glance, it was a sight to behold.  Each piece seemed large, but the breading was flowery and could have been an illusion.  The coating was crunchy and adequate, neither too thin nor too thick.  Sadly though, the prawns within were ordinarily sized.  These paled in comparison to those I previously had in other joints, and even during Kenji Tei's better days.  Nevertheless, the prawns were fresh and sweet, juicy and tender with each bite.  The bigger letdown however was the price tag.  I used to enjoy their tempura for just under 300 bucks for the 5 piece set.  Now I still believe it's overpriced at more than 300 pesos for these normal sized prawns.  For the same price tag I could grab a 5 piece set with humongous black tiger prawns at another shop.  Still, Kenji Tei remains commendable for preserving the quality of its tempura despite upping the prices.

My revisit at Kenji Tei was reassuring and redeeming.  Their best sellers retained their charm and addictive taste, keeping hungry diners hooked up for more.  On the other hand, my other personal favorites (gyudon and tempura) have fallen a notch lower, compounded by an increase in prices.  But there's just something about restaurants such as these that keep you coming back.  Maybe it's the magic of first love, or the fondness of my memories.  One thing for sure though, is that whenever I would be in Greenbelt, Kenji Tei should be the easiest choice for my Japanese quick fix.

Jones

Kenji Tei Ramen House

3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5

Legazpi Street, Legazpi Village

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

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Ginza Bairin: The New "Old" Kid On the Block

There are always two sides to the coin: some argue that the arrival of foreign food franchises dampens the enthusiasm of locally established food fare.  On the other hand, it cannot be discounted that we could finally sample the taste and experience the higher quality of imported brands.  Whatever it is, inside my stomach, it's all the same.

But not all are truly the same.  The katsu craze has ravaged the country, with the biggest player cropping up branches like mushrooms.  It has even stimulated the birth of smaller shops that offer good katsu, without the insane queues and fully booked nights.  And then arrives two heavyweights straight from the land of the rising sun.  And the war has just begun.

I'm dreaming...

It did not take long before one of the original creators of the katsu finally came to our shores to stamp its own class.  Ginza Bairin has been churning out these delightful chops even before the Japs had ideas of Asian conquest.  This time around, its a culinary conquest, a World War III on the katsu battleground.

Still on its soft opening, Ginza Bairin has already made the news among the local food blog scene.  It wasn't surprising then that the place was packed even on a rainy Saturday lunch.  Located loftily in the swanky new Glorietta 2 wing, its doors resemble an entrance to a temple.  I wonder if this is the current architectural trend for restaurants.

Enter the dragon.

The place is quite small for a shop that's expecting a deluge of customers.  Nevertheless, the interiors are well-lit and upbeat, with its modern minimalist design and fixtures a pleasing sight to behold.

Disco balls.

The menu book almost seemed like a chic coffee table book, colorful and glossy, with fluent descriptions of what to expect.  It was tempting to bring this home altogether.

Class of '27 Photo Album.

Everything looked delectable.  But I wanted to compare their katsu with that of the local competitor, so I picked what I had before.  She opted again for seafood fare.  While waiting for our orders, I noticed the same mortar and pestle set-up for preparing the special dipping sauce.  I read somewhere that Ginza Bairin in other countries don't have this set-up, but Filipinos have grown accustomed to it, so they placed it here.  Anyway, it's a good past time while waiting for the food.

Step one: wipe your hands with the moist towelette.

Step two: grind the sesame seeds with all your strength.  Anger is advised.

Step three: open the pot containing the sauce.

Step four: pour the wonderful sauce.

Finished product. Success!

The dishes here come in sets, complete with unlimited Japanese gohan and shredded cabbage.  Hell even the miso soup and sliced pineapples are unlimited.  Gluttons rejoice!

Kurobuta Rosu Katsu Set, P595 (+10% service charge)

By now, every one knows that Kurobuta means bad-ass.  Bad-ass Berkshire black pig deep-fried to perfection.  At first sight, the serving size was a tad smaller than that of Yabu.  Indeed, at Yabu you could choose a heavier portion.  At Ginza Bairin, you have no choice but to settle for this.  But that doesn't mean it's not good.

The goodness within.

The outer shell of panko was perfectly executed: crisp but not painful to the palate.  The meat inside was firm and chunky, yet tender enough to easily ruminate on.  However, it lacked the succulent juiciness that I had first encountered at Yabu.  Moreover, I was left craving for a sliver of fat in each slice, which adds the guilty pleasure I want from a bad-ass pig.  Nevertheless, the dish was surprisingly filling, as I was left with two slices by the time I called it quits.  

The reason for the quick white flag of surrender?  The cabbage.  Strangely, these oft ignored side dish at any katsu place took the center stage.  The secret was in the sesame sauce inconspicuously sitting beside the katsu sauce pot.  There was a uniquely delicious savory taste in this sauce, such that we emptied half a bottle just between the two of us.  I have never eaten so much cabbage in one sitting in my entire life, I felt I was a goat.  I wanted to bring home the whole bottle to try it out on other dishes.  It might even taste great with the katsu!

Prawn Fry Set, P395 (+10% service charge)

These were not your ordinary puny prawns.  These were giant black tiger prawns coated with the same breading, and deep fried to a crisp you could eat them shell and all.  She figured two pieces were not enough, so an extra piece was called for.

Extra piece of Ebi Katsu, P150

It's gratifying that their menu allows such flexibility.  There are also mixed katsu sets, but you could mix and match your own with the a la carte selections.  The black tiger prawns were crunchy outside, while the meat was fresh and tender and succulent.  I got a kick sucking out the brains on each of the prawn heads.  Every nook and cranny was delectable. 

Iced Tea, P75 (+10% service charge)

All these delights needed a refreshing douse of cold drink, and the Iced Tea was the perfect companion.  Cool and subtly sweet with a hint of fresh tea leaves, you can never go wrong with this.

Another thumbs up approval.

Barely a month old in operation, Ginza Bairin has already gained a loyal crowd of followers and instilled anxiety on its main competitor.  There are a few items in their menu that Yabu does not have, and I have read that their Katsudon was other-worldly.  Nevertheless, Ginza Bairin lacks a few items too, notably the Soft-Shell Crab that was so utterly good.  

The arrival of this new "old" kid on the block heralds an era of an endless katsu war, its main armament of deeply rooted tradition in cooking perfection highlights its advantage.  The quality and freshness of its ingredients are unquestionable, the service likewise impeccable.  Only the palate can decide who the true champion of katsu will reign victorious.  Whoever it may be, the winners will always be us, the hungry diners.

Jones

Ginza Bairin

Glorietta 2 (along Palm Drive)

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/GinzaBairin.PH

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Cure Your Craving: Kuretake

Japanese food is not difficult to love.  It's simple, neat, and flavorful.  The only problem is, there are a lot of posers around the metro, claiming to serve authentic Japanese yet fails miserably in every aspect.  Such a travesty is not only committed by fast food spots, but even the highly fancied restaurants boasting about fusion and their supposed expert chefs.

So, finding a real gem of a Japanese food joint is quite a challenge.  Sometimes, longevity is one helpful clue that this is the right place.  I am often turned off by fancy shops in classy malls, not just because of the price, but mainly for the value-for-money aspect.  Don't get me wrong, I would be willing to spend and shell out a few more bucks if the food was to-die-for.  But if I was only paying for their name, or their classy spot in the mall, I would regret every centavo.  

I was a bit skeptical about Kuretake, a long-time favorite among the high-end society surrounding Rockwell.  But what helped its reputation was its staying power, keeping its almost secluded spot among the other elegant restaurant selections.  Finding Kuretake is an adventure itself.  From inside the mall, it's easy to miss the dimly lit corridor with an inconspicuous sign pointing to its back entrance.  Yes, the front entrance is actually along the circumferential street along the mall.

The gateway to culinary adventures.

Its front door is large and imposing, like the wooden entrances to a Shaolin monastery.  Inside though, the room is bright and vibrant.  The red walls blend perfectly with the wooden finish.  Their space is adequate, comfortably seating large parties, and even extends outside for those preferring al fresco dining.  Like all true Japanese joints, there are seats along the sushi prep tables for a more in-your-face sushi experience created by their sushi sensei.

The cube area is always a favorite spot.

For a more in-your-face sushi experience.

The menu was simple and straightforward, offering the traditional favorites.  No fancy names, no flowery descriptions.  One must have basic knowledge of Japanese food to figure out the selections.  Or maybe just ask their friendly wait staff.  

These small fry are always a good sign that your'e in the right place.

Of course, we were here to sample the staples and all the familiar fare.  We quickly browsed the menu for the common sounding names and placed our orders.

Tuna, P55 (2 pcs.) and Kani Sushi, P40 (2 pcs.)(+10% service charge)

Kuretake is famous for its sushi and sashimi selection, and by far it is one of the most extensive and creative.  We weren't in the mood for gobbling raw seafood that night, but we managed to order a few, just to try it out.  Thankfully, their menu allowed a la carte choices in pairs, so we wouldn't get full immediately.  The tuna sushi tasted fresh and firm, but was nothing spectacular.  The crabstick (kani) was likewise mundane.  Maybe it just wasn't a sushi night for us.

Aspara Bacon, P220 (+10% service charge)

Bacon wrapped asparagus is an all-time favorite.  These crisp asparagus stalks were grilled just right, with the bacon embracing them having just the right chewy texture.  The grilled taste was not overpowering, but still distinct.  A generous serving of mixed greens made sure this was a healthy choice.  

Tori Teriyaki, P260 (+10% service charge)

In my humble opinion, the chicken teriyaki is always the make-or-break dish.  Cook it right, and your joint is okay.  Tweak the taste a bit and get it perfect, your shop will be famous.  Fail miserably, and I'm heading for the exit.  Fortunately, the Tori Teriyaki was spot-on.  The skin was crisp and sweet, although some portions were overdone and charred too much.  The meat however, remained soft and juicy, with the sweetness of the sauce seeping within.  There was nothing new in taste, and no fancy concoction, yet this was still pleasurable to the palate.

Salmon Teppanyaki, P290 (+10% service charge)

Opting to harvest the bounty of the sea, the Salmon Teppanyaki was an easy pick.  I am always critical of any salmon dish.  There's often a fine line between perfecting it and blundering it.  Kuretake, however, did not disappoint with their version.  The salmon fillet was fresh and flaky, the meat pink and wonderful.  There was a hint of grilled taste blending with the teppanyaki sauce, a sparkling mix of sweet and salty.  In addition, the portion was large enough for two hungry people.  This was one of the best I have ever tried.  A steal at less than 300 bucks too.

Ebi Tempura, P450 (+10% service charge)

Another make-or-break dish, the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura is a mainstay of any trip to a Japanese restaurant.  The prawns were satisfyingly large, but still fell short compared to my ultimate favorite, Jozu-Kin.  However, these were impeccably executed, with the breading crisp and thin.  The prawns themselves were fresh and sweet, the succulence exuding with each bite.  Bonus points were rewarded for the little extras, the deep-fried potatoes and eggplants.  However, the eye-popping price was a bit too extravagant, considering I could get more someplace else for even a lesser price tag.

Gyudon, P420 (+10% service charge)

Paying homage to the main reason why I started food blogging, I succumbed to my craving for the divine dish, the sacred beef bowl, the Gyudon.  Dismissing its exorbitant price, I insisted on sampling the Kuretake version.  For that price tag, fortunately the serving was hefty and filling, complete with a bowl of miso soup and pickles to boot.  The beef strips were light and tender, with just the ample hint of fatty goodness.  I forgot to ask the server if they could withhold the noodles, but it was too late.  Overloading on carbs was not my plan that night, yet the noodles were firm and flavorful.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, not too sweet and not too salty.  There was, however, a queer ingredient in the mix.  I couldn't figure out what those large strips of jelly actually were.  In fact, these added too much bulk that I couldn't finish the whole bowl.  Missing in action also was the raw egg, which gives more energy to this dish.  Nevertheless, the beef bowl was classically done.  Now if there was something they could do about that price.

My idea of a happy meal.

It therefore remains no surprise why Kuretake has kept its prime spot in this upscale neighborhood.  There being only two Japanese restaurants in the immediate vicinity (if I counted right), Kuretake is the obvious better choice.  The ambiance is more hip and vibrant, and the food stays true to the traditional Japanese flavor.  The dishes are freshly prepared and perfectly seasoned, never overpowering and neither overwhelming.  The sushi selection deserves another visit from me, as I gather they come up with a few unique inventions occasionally.  The price tags however, may put off some diners.  For the same amount, you could fetch bigger and better dishes in some other place.  On second thought, people who go to Rockwell probably care less.  After all, it's the experience that still matters.

Jones

Kuretake Japanese Restaurant

Ground Level, Power Plant Mall

Rockwell Drive corner Estrella Street 

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kuretake-Philippines/48296751859

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