Murray's New Orleans Bourbon Street Ribs, Steaks, and Oysters: Seriously, It's That Long!

There is one cuisine, among others, that never quite picked up and jumped off with the foodie crowd.  Despite the rousing kick-start by joints like Gumbo, the clamor for cajun cooking fizzled out in the past few years.  Overshadowed by the revenge of the ramen and the rise of the gastropubs, cajun themed restaurants are barely carving out a piece of the market.  Nevertheless, loyalists, like myself, still hunt for that distinct Southern' taste.

Having dined in Gumbo in Mall of Asia countless times even before my blogger days, I was looking for another ideal spot for dinner with some friends.  This restaurant caught my eye as I was browsing through the web, not only because of its really lengthy name, but I was also craving for cajun food.

Murray's New Orleans Bourbon Street Ribs, Steaks, and Oysters (yes, it's that long!) is a sister restaurant of the more famous Clawdaddy, explaining their usual 1-2 punch location.  On a regular Monday night, the place was quiet and seemed lifeless.  Inside, the dim atmosphere reminded one of old speakeasy bars.  I could almost hear soft jazz music and whispers in the dark.  The place really felt lonely, but seemed ideal for good long conversations.

Our group sat comfortably on the typical circular couches and ordered swiftly, our stomachs grumbling with hunger.  It was then that our experience seemed to turn for the worse.  It took a really long time for our orders to arrive.  Luckily, there was the obligate complimentary loaf bread to quell our rebellion.  Still, it wasn't enough to tone down our hunger pangs.

Salpicao, P375 (+8% service charge)

Strangely, the Salpicao was the first to arrive.  Served on a small hot plate, the garlic aroma was undeniable.  We almost regretted not ordering rice to go with it.

But, since it was the first dish to arrive, we were inclined to pick away at the delicious morsels already.  The meat was tender and flavorful on its own, with the garlic taste seeping into each sinew.  It was a bit oily but it's all good.  A dash of green chilies added a little zest, but the Salpicao was all about the garlic goodness.  Thankfully, our long wait was rewarded.

Fried Chicken Salad, P285 (+8% service charge)

To counter the greasy mess we just ordered, the Fried Chicken Salad came to the rescue.  Fresh lettuce, big onions, and corn kernels composed the healthy mix.  Tossed in Caesar's dressing, the garden greens were topped with fried chicken and garlic croutons.

The croutons had a peculiar taste, like that of biscocho - sweeter than salty.  The fried chicken was crunchy and quite okay - nothing spectacular.  The greens were crisp and fresh, with the dressing kept light to just add a hint of flavor.

Baby Back Ribs, Half Slab, P499 (+8% service charge)

Of course, no cajun cookin' would be complete without my personal favorite Baby Back Ribs.  A half rack of grilled pork ribs lay gloriously on a stark white contrasting plate.

And so, we meet again.

The ribs were glorious indeed - glistening with their signature hickory barbecue sauce.  The flavor was spot-on, smokey and charred in just the right places.  But, there seemed to be more bone than meat, although the flesh was fork tender.  Maybe Porky was on a diet.

I would have appreciated a little more generosity on the hickory sauce, since after a while, the meat tasted dry.  Nevertheless, it had all the comforting flavor I wanted.  I chose some mustard greens for my sides, and it was quite enjoyable - the bitter taste contrasting with the sweet savory barbecue.  A queer side, however, was the two biscuits it came with.  It was plain and doughy, totally lacking flavor.  It reminded me of puto seko, and I would rather preferred a honey glazed biscuit a la Texas Chicken or Popeyes'.

Pete's Buffalo Wings, P349 (+8% service charge)

Oh, and did I forget to mention we did order STARTERS?  For an appetizer, the Buffalo Wings came dead last.  Hooray for service.  Still, there's nothing that fried chicken wings can't do.

Despite their diminutive size, the wings had a crispy exterior - perfectly deep fried.  The sauce was typical buffalo-style, but more towards the sour end rather than sweet.  It was addicting, pity that it came last.  Still, it was nothing spectacular and you could get better tasting and bigger sized wings at your dedicated wing spots, for an even cheaper price.

Murray's suffers from the predicament of its really long name.  A name too long people find it hard to remember.  And the slowness of service seemed to fit the lengthy billing.  Was it because they shared a single kitchen with the more populated Clawdaddy?  We didn't mind the long wait too much because we found ourselves in good conversation.  But starving people would run amok with this kind of pace.  Being a fan of cajun cuisine, I hope Murray's would have a second coming of sorts and breathe new life into their sleepy saloon.  Their dishes are okay, with the Salpicao and ribs batting above average.  I might come back though, if I see a happier mood in the near future.

Jones

Murray's New Orleans Bourbon Street Ribs, Steaks, and Oysters

2/F SM Mall of Asia, Entertainment Mall

South Wing, Seaside Boulevard

Pasay City

https://www.facebook.com/neworleansph

  

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Going Mad at Mad Marks!

Most people have their own set of comfort food.  It's that kind of food that instantly transports one home at a single bite, or sends rushes of endorphins and feel-good hormones at the mere sight of it.  Or that type of food that brings back memories, complete with a soundtrack playing in the background.

For me, my default choices are usually Japanese fare and American diner food.  So, it was just a matter of time, ever since I came back home, before I succumbed to my cravings.

I had been eyeing Mad Mark's ever since they opened in Kapitolyo just a couple of years back.  But I didn't get a chance to visit their flagship store then.  It was a welcome sight that I saw their signage radiating brightly from the windows of Glorietta 5 in Makati.  Images of greasy American food zipped across my mind.

Their branch in Makati was small but apparently larger than their original store. It was a weekday dinner and the place was packed, cramped, and noisy.  The smokey aroma from the kitchen was obvious once you stepped inside - a gripe for some people.  The menu was straightforward and familiar, a mix of Tex-Mex American food with a little twist.

Churrasco, P245 (+10% service charge)

The missus picked something light for dinner, the Churrasco, a soft shell-taco type of meal.  Two medium-sized wraps burst open with a colorful array of fillings.  The garnishing of green bell peppers, red onions, and caramelized onions made for an interesting zesty taste.  The wrap itself was soft enough and not tough to chew.

Something that we thought was light on the stomach was actually not.  The Churrasco was pregnant with meat and, lo and behold, rice!  The cheese was also distinct, and blended well with the overall theme.  The meat was USDA beef, and indeed it tasted high grade.  Tender and flavorful, I almost regretted not ordering the actual steak!

Surprise, surprise!  We weren't able to finish both wraps and had to bring home the rest.  Amazingly, the Churrasco tasted good the following day, even after reheating.

I went on to surrender to my whims - baby back ribs, of course!  Attractively priced at under 300 bucks, I had doubts about the quality of their ribs.

Johnnie Double Black Ribs, Half Slab, P245 (+10% service charge)

The half slab serving initially looked too small for me, but again, surprisingly, it got me filled up easily.  The ribs were generously glazed with their signature barbecue sauce, with just the right sweetness and tangy flavor.  The meat was fork tender, with a notable smokey flavor.  It was good and did not taste cheap.  But, it was not as superb as the more dominant restaurants serving ribs.

Interestingly, I adored the sides of corn and carrots and smashed potatoes it came with.  Not exactly a fan of potatoes (except french fries), I was pleasantly impressed by the salty mix of mashed potatoes and creamy gravy.  It was highly addicting, perhaps explaining why I became so full so quickly.  The corn also deserved praise, with its buttery delight and a secret powder (probably dry spice rub) sprinkled on it that made the difference.

Ragin' Cajun Wings, P150 (+10% service charge)

We were actually craving for buffalo wings that night before I spotted Mad Mark's, so I thought it was comforting to see this on the menu.  It looked and sounded nice, promising a sweet and spicy experience.  Sadly though, on my first bite, it was a salty and bitter bad memory.

The wings were overcooked and burnt!  Tell-tale signs of blackened outer coating left me gasping in exasperation.  The cajun sauce was a tad too sour and lacked the level of hotness I wanted.  It could not compensate for the bitter taste of burnt breading.  The exterior was crisp and the chicken meat was fine, but lacked flavor.  The chopped onion leeks did nothing to help save the dish.  It was almost painful to finish a paltry two pieces of wings.  When I pointed out this sacrilege to their waitstaff, their only excuse was that this kind of stuff really happens.  Really? How come I have never encountered burnt wings in my entire life in places like Buffalo's, Flaming Wings, Wingman, hell, even the budget B. Wings?  It was an utter disappointment.

Nevertheless, it might have been a case of right restaurant, wrong order.  Although, the Churrasco was a revelation and a hint that I should have ordered their best-selling steaks.  The ribs were fine and I would go back for it if I was craving for a quick escape for a budget homey meal of my favorite baby back ribs.  But, on a hungrier (and wealthier) night, I would return and sample their steaks.  The wings though, are an entirely different story.  Forgettable and regrettable, one would be better off skedaddling to the nearby Buffalo's Wings N' Things.  For a few bucks more, you'd get correctly and honestly done buffalo wings.  But perhaps for everything else (especially steak and ice cream), Mad Mark's should be able to deliver on their premise of honest good food.

Jones

Mad Mark's Creamery and Good Eats

2/F, Glorietta 5, Office Drive

Ayala Center, Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/MadMark.Creamery.and.Good.Eats

  

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I Heard It From the Olive Vine

There seems to be a paradox of Western cuisine here in Singapore.  To definitely indulge in the finer tasting Western dishes, one should settle himself in a reputable hotel around Orchard or wander in the alleys of Club Street or Clarke Quay.  This, for sure, will burst your pocket.  Nevertheless, in almost every hawker or food centre, a conspicuous Western food stall is an easy find.  But, almost every time, the hungry expat will find it a cheap and disappointing imitation, an unworthy quick fix.

It was such a happy incident, therefore, that we managed to stumble upon a gem of a find that is Olive Vine.  Hidden in the subterranean walkway connecting Suntec City to Marina Square, the hurrying commuter will often neglect this quaint nook.  In fact, what caught our attention was the opposite stall in front of it, as our palates were craving for that good old Western flavor already, months after being saturated by chicken rice and chili. 

Sleek black and red linings create an aura of style.

Almost shamefully, I admit at first that what hooked us to Olive Vine was that "no service charge" boldly printed out front.  With prices of sit-down mid-range restaurants here exponentially higher than their equivalents back home in our 7,107 islands, that golden phrase was enough to turn our eyes to their colorful menu.  Still, having tried a few Western food stalls in hawkers, we remained a bit skeptical.  Nonetheless, our grumbling stomachs and craving palates gave in.

The cheerful Filipina waitstaff was an added perk - in typical Filipino hospitality, she searched for a cozy spot for us to sit in.  The restaurant, of course, is self-service - you pick your orders from a laminated cardboard menu and queue up to the cashier.  Not a very enticing experience, at first glance, yet the food here is the star anyway.

On our first trip (yes, read on and see why we came back for more!), Olive Vine offered promotional set meals.  That gleaming rack of ribs was enough to get me hooked, as I struggled to keep my baby back ribs withdrawal symptoms at bay.  But, ribs aside, the menu was filled with all sorts of Western favorites - from sandwiches to pasta, from steaks and chops to the ubiquitous french fried potatoes.

Cheesy Fries, SGD 5.90 (approx. PHP 200)

There was nothing a big bowl of crispy fries couldn't do to spark us up that night.  Oozing with gooey cheese and a drizzle of mayonnaise, the fries remained amazingly crisp and crunchy. A highly addicting treat and a sure way to kick start your palate.  The serving size seemed commensurate with the price tag.  And these were real potato fries, for that matter.

Can't get enough.

On our first visit, she picked a chicken + pasta set, a safe choice for our initial try.  We requested for an added spicy kick for the chicken chop, to which the staff obliged willingly.

Crispy Chicken Arrabiata, SGD 10.90 (approx. PHP 380)

Not surprisingly, this was one of their best sellers.  Heck, even in hawkers the chicken chop plus pasta combo are sure hits.  There must be an unfailing love between noodles and Singaporeans here.  I confess I'm not a pasta lover, but with my first bite, the flavor of the tomato based sauce was full and true - there were tell-tale bits of real tomatoes mixed within.  This was no cheap hawker imitation, this was restaurant-grade Italian cooking.

Chicken + Pasta = love

Not one to disappoint, the chicken chop was huge!  Larger than my palm, it was perfectly deep-fried to a golden brown.  Although a tad oily, the crunchy breading was a welcome change in texture.  The meat itself was juicy, and the added spicy level we requested for was prominent.  The big portion was so large we couldn't finish it and had to pack it for home.

Soup of the Day: Cream of Mushroom

My highly anticipated baby back rib set came with the whole shebang: the soup of the day, your choice of drink, a tiny slice of cake, and the main.  The soup was hearty and warm, but not extraordinary.

Pork Ribs Set, SGD 18.90 (approx. PHP 660)

The big plate was half occupied by the rack of pork ribs glistening with the red barbecue sauce.  A generous serving of the same flavorful fries and a side of coleslaw completed the ensemble.

Hello there, I missed you.

As I eagerly sliced through the ribs, my tongue anticipated a unique flavor.  Largely because of my heightened expectations, my first bite was a little disappointing.  The zesty barbecue flavor was there, but it was not full and barely penetrated the meat.  Still, the meat was tender and gave in easily to light pressure from my knife.  The natural juices of the meat were locked in, but my palate was still searching for that real grilled taste - that distinct aroma of charring, that blackened exterior, that smokey flavor.  All three were never fully achieved.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed munching away at every rib - I finished the rack.  This was infinitesimally better than any cheap hawker stall, but still light-years behind Rack's.  But in this island-nation, this perhaps is one of the better and more affordable baby back ribs.

Fruit Punch

Our first experience in Olive Vine was generally a fulfilling one.  The taste seemed authentic Western, with prices reasonable for the serving sizes.  It was therefore not surprising to find ourselves choosing to dine here again for a quick New Year's Eve dinner.

Caesar Salad, SGD 8.90 (approx PHP 310)

In an attempt for a healthier alternative, we swapped the fries for salad this time.  The Caesar's salad was a huge portion, with generous slices of tender white chicken meat and fresh greens.  Curiously, those aren't croutons.  It tasted more like our local biscocho.  A miss for this dish actually.  Nevertheless, the salad was filling and was a meal in itself.

Biscocho salad, anyone?

She still picked pasta this time out, while I chose to go pork all the way.  The Shrimp Algio Olio was a good choice, and again we spiked it with extra chili flakes.

Shrimp Aglio Olio, SGD 10.90 (approx. PHP 380)

There was a reasonable amount of shrimp concealed among the flat tangle of noodles, five plump pieces to be exact.  The noodles glistened in the invigorating olive oil.  The taste was herbal and fresh, the shrimps succulent and tender.  Another perfectly executed pasta dish, similar to the Arrabiata.

Shrimps hiding underneath this tangled mess.

I picked another pork dish, my taste buds craving for that fatty taste.  Can't get enough of that cholesterol!

Pork Steak with Rice, SGD 10.90 (approx. PHP 380)

Two large slices of lean pork steak came served with a hefty portion of rice and a side of coleslaw, all lathered in mushroom gravy.  The gravy was a comforting feeling.  Gravy sauces in hawkers are eerily different, reeking of black pepper flavor, bordering on chicken rice sauce flavor.  That simply didn't go well with grilled dishes.  Ah, but the gravy here in Olive Vine tasted honest-to-goodness mushroom gravy.  

But then, the flowery praises seem to end there.  For some reason, the grilled dishes consistently fall short.  Although the meat was tender, it was bland without the gravy.  That smokey grilled taste was glaringly lacking, the charred appearance notably absent.  A victim of too quick cooking, perhaps?  Still, the gravy was the savior, embracing the otherwise mundane pork meat in its loving flavor.

Blueberry Cheescake, SGD 4.90 (approx. PHP 170)

There was ample room for dessert this time, and the Blueberry Cheesecake was the easy choice, having been deprived of cheesecake for months.  A small slice seemed pricey, especially if pitted against those from Conti's or even Bag of Beans back home.  However, this minute slice was up to par.  The cream cheese stuffing was cloying and soft, almost like ice cream consistency.  It was not overly sweet, and the cheesy flavor mildly subdued.  The blueberries tasted authentic and fruity.  Our only complaint was the slice was rather thin!  It was a sweet end for our carbo loading.

Despite obvious misses in its grilled cuisine, Olive Vine manages to churn out restaurant-quality dishes at pocket-friendly prices.  The pasta dishes are mostly well executed, but they definitely need to improve on their grilling methods.  Still, a testament for their good taste is the long queues and cramped tables during peak dining hours.  So, if you don't mind lining up (both for seating and for ordering), bumping elbows with the tables next to you, but still getting an authentic Western experience, hear it from the Olive Vine.  First hand.

Jones

Olive Vine

Marina Square

#B1-17 Marina Link

Singapore

https://www.facebook.com/olivevine

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Food Is A Love Potion: Gayuma Ni Maria

Maginhawa Street is a treasure trove of food finds.  Going along that stretch of road is like embarking on a culinary adventure of epic proportions.  Name it, the street has it: burgers, Japanese food, all-day breakfast, Tex-Mex, and the list goes on.  If one begins the adventure at the intersection with Anonas Street, there is one peculiar restaurant that is often overlooked solely because of its unassuming facade and the bundle of trees obscuring it.

Its dimly lit, faintly neon signage would however attract any passer-by with its eye-catching name, and then subsequently mistake it for an adults-only store.  But that is the concept and the aura that Gayuma Ni Maria intends to reflect.  Yes, this is actually a full-board restaurant dishing out a unique and cleverly crafted menu.

The interiors look a bit shabby, like any grandmother's old house.  The pastel colored wallpapers attempt their best to uplift the dim lights and the faded curtains.  The whole place feels like a gypsy shop, minus the crystal ball and manghuhula. (I found out they actually have an in-house tarot card reader.  That explains the strange theme.)  However, the table settings appeal to any couple on a date, complete with a flower centerpiece and floral table tops, setting the mood for a bizarre romantic night.

Guaranteed to crack a smile.  And a giggle or two.

The menu book was a simple laminated paper, but what's written is an imaginative play on words guaranteed to make even the most stoic laugh and the most purist giggle naughtily.  With items named like "Lumpiang Excited", "Rock Me Baby", "Size Doesn't Matter" and my hands-down favorite "Fishy Poque Poque", I'm pretty sure you'll find something you like, whether to order or just to laugh at.  But these monikers actually describe the dish quite accurately, and adds to the charm of Gayuma Ni Maria.  After a bit of teasing and giggling, we tried out a few of their mains.

Lumpiang Barako, P125

To fire up the night, we started off with these dynamite sticks aptly named Lumpiang Barako.  These sticks were filled with gooey cheese and green chilis wrapped in a lumpia skin and then deep fried.  There were some parts that were not crispy and unevenly fried, which was a bit of a letdown.  Also, there was an apparent lack of kicks, although both of us were used to spicy food anyway.  I was expecting quite a firestarter but this one failed to live up to its name.  Even the sissy could consume this thing.

Mi Amore, P215

She ordered a pasta dish that caught her fancy.  The Mi Amore was supposed to be an Italian spaghetti but it had clear overtones of Pinoy-style infused in it.  The sauce was mildly sweet typical of our local variants, except that there were no hotdogs to be seen.  The noodles were al dente and well executed.  The order came with two piece of buttered garlic bread, which were rather forgetful.  They were tough and chewy and a tad overdone.

Rock Me Baby!, P265

For my manly order, I selected one of my favorite cuts of meat.  The Rock Me Baby! was served with two large cuts of hickory barbecued pork ribs, with a side of corn kernels and your choice of mashed potato or rice.  Naturally, I went for the rice pairing.  The marinade was too sweet for my liking, almost tasting like pancake syrup.  There was a glaring lack of zest and spicy smokey feel, which was a bit distressing.  The meat though was soft and fork-tender, with the taste seeping well into its inner sinews.  I would have loved this dish if it imbibed a more grilled and smokey taste, the way a man wants it (pardon the pun, the theme is quite infectious).  But the sweet hints were too sissy.  Also, I would have preferred a more generous serving for that price tag, although the cuts that were served were plump and juicy.

Gayuma Ni Maria will not fail to surprise any curious foodie.  Despite its Filipino tag, the restaurant offers a wide array of choices and whole line-up of cakes and desserts (which we should have tried!).  Its peculiar and inventive theme and vibe and its fancifully branded dishes are enough to spark a dinner conversation and unending laughter.  The dishes themselves however, fail in certain striking aspects, owing probably to cooking technique and attention to detail.

But, just because of its eccentricity, I would go back on the right occasion, perhaps just to tease friends or have a good cozy dinner.  I sure hope they would improve on their servings and tweak the taste on some of the dishes.  For its charm alone, Gayuma Ni Maria should deserve a second look, and perhaps its potion might get one hooked.

Jones

Gayuma Ni Maria

123 V. Luna Extension (near Maginhawa Street)

Sikatuna Village, Quezon City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gayuma-Ni-Maria/148108488537188

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