Tales From The Other Side (Part 2): Mensakaba Geishu
In the first part of this series, I spoke of the tales from beyond, the other side of the long stretch of Aguirre Avenue. This lesser known section is a haven of multinational cuisines: Japanese, Korean, Italian, Spanish, and even Swiss and Greek. Tucked away from the chaos and traffic of the more famous end, the far side of Aguirre flourishes silently on its own.
Already legendary simply by word-of-mouth, this small ramen nook is unassuming and nearly oblivious. The brainchild of a husband and wife team, Mensakaba Geishu, just by its sheer tiny size, reminds one of cozy street-side ramen stalls in Japan. Or that corner stall from the movie The Ramen Girl. Devoid of any Japanese themed decorations, the only things that exude Nippon in this shop are the food and its chef-owner.
With only a short counter table and a few stools, the place inevitably gets packed by the hungry lunchtime crowd. We arrived just a half-hour before they closed their lunch service, so the place was nearly empty already. The menu is limited, even down to just 4 basic ramen variants and a few rice bowl choices. The off-the-grill snack sticks are also quite limited. And there is no sushi nor sashimi. Nevertheless, food is guaranteed fresh and cooked to order, as one can waft the tantalizing scent emanating from the traditional Japanese grill and a big cauldron of broth.
Torikawa (Chicken Skin), P35 per stick
Not being a fan of ramen, I proceeded to order from the grilled items. I particularly enjoy watching Tori-Q's automated grill machines back when I was in Singapore, and I was missing that distinct yakitori taste. I picked two sticks of Chicken Skin, and I was amused by their small dainty aluminum grill. It took quite some time for this order to arrive, because it was as fresh as it could be.
The scent of the Torikawa was cloying. There were some parts that were not charred to my liking, but the smokey flavor was definitely present. The skin was crisp on the charred areas, fatty and greasy in some. The sauce complemented the skin well, with its saltiness and a hint of sweetness. For some, this would pair well with a bowl of hot white rice. I know I would have done the same.
Shoyu Ramen, P250
Being nearly ignorant of ramen choices, we asked the chef's wife which one was their best-seller. The Tantanmen apparently sold like pancakes, but this was obviously too spicy for my mom. Instead, we ordered the mellow Shoyu Ramen. This huge bowl arrived piping hot and fresh off the cauldron.
Generous slices of chashu were tossed into the mix of clear broth and noodles. The noodles were firm and perfectly cooked. The broth was heart-warming, with a tame salty taste. The pork belly was glorious, with just the right amount of fat marbling. The sliced egg, I presume, was supposed to be more runny though. Despite a less colorful appearance, this bowl of ramen was filling for both the heart and stomach.
Miso Ramen, P250
Just to be a little different, my dad ordered the Miso Ramen. Served much the same way in a huge bowl, it looked dirtier than the other ramen. The black stains were actually garlic oil, adding a distinct dimension of flavor.
Thick and generous cuts of pork belly were also a part of this mix, as with the sliced eggs. There were a few chopped cabbage and carrots and a handful of bean sprouts added to give the soup some body. The garlicky taste was unmistakable, but the broth was still light and tangy.
I did the unthinkable by ordering a non-ramen dish in this ramen place. Still, it was surprising that this rice bowl was also an apparent best-seller. Or perhaps, for lack of a wide array of choices, this must be the default. Nevertheless, it was worth a try. What with those thick cuts of pork belly.
Chashu-Don, P150
Like most dishes here, the rice bowl was huge! Six ample cuts of thick pork belly rested peacefully on top of a heaping serving of white rice. Sprinkled with chopped Japanese seaweed and green onion leeks, the bowl was then smothered in the same sweet yakitori sauce.
The pork belly was roasted to perfection, retaining its smoothness and tenderness while adding a little crunch to the edges. The meat to fat ratio is amazing and cloying to the tongue. The sauced adds some spunk, but the dish might be good either way. The chashu-don deserves to be the best-seller, and not just because it's one of only two rice dishes. That pork belly is indeed heaven, whether swimming in ramen broth or lying gloriously on top of steamed rice.
The secret is out, the legend is true. Where else can you enjoy authentic ramen without even breaking the 300 peso mark? Where else can you greedily gobble thick slices of chashu for less than 200 bucks? By keeping its menu limited, Mensakaba Geishu managed to perfect its craft and concentrate on the authenticity in the details.
Service is impeccable, in-your-face, and personal. It feels much like your friendly neighborhood stall - or even eating at the comforts of your own home. My only reservations are these two: the menu might be too limited for some, especially those craving for other Japanese staples like sushi, tempura, and teriyaki. And secondly, I hope they don't grow too famous too fast, following the way of Kenji Tei. Keep it simple and stay on the other side.
Jones
Mensakaba Geishu
Southland Apartelle, Aguirre Avenue
BF Homes, Paranaque City
Good afternoon, Jonah!
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