Jones' Gastronomy: More Than Just Katsu

With katsu places sprouting up left and right all across the metro nowadays, one can not help but wonder what differs one from the other, or which resto has the upper hand. For one, those that dedicate themselves to just the katsu dishes are almost certain to deliver fabulous and intricate creations (read: Yabu). On the other hand, these dedicated shops may become too monotonous and could put off some people who desire more than just katsu.

So, it does pay to have a restaurant that serves great-tasting katsu dishes and, at the same time, churns out equally respectful Japanese entrees. Diversity is the daughter of invention, if I may say so myself. And on a special date night like this, diversity triumphed over specialty.

Off to the Fort Strip we went, to a place known not only for katsu dishes, but also for its yakitori offerings. Located amidst high-end resto-bars and gastro-pubs, the facade of Katsu poses an almost intimidating sight. Dimly-lit interiors, wooden panels, and darkly-hued signages impose a gritty feel. But, beneath all these is a cheery and accommodating staff, and a simple and quaint vibe within. None of the loud blaring music of adjacent pubs here. It's the perfect romantic date night place.

Dark and imposing, yet vibrant within

Both of us were not hardcore fans of yakitori (especially on a hungry night like this), so we opted to try out Katsu's other offerings. And their menu did not disappoint. It was straightforward Japanese cuisine, sans the flowery words and grandiose descriptions. The menu simply told us what we wanted. And we wanted a lot.

Dynamite Roll, P245 (+service charge)

To get the fire started, we ordered the spicy Dynamite Roll. True to its name, the Dynamite Roll detonates with a fiery kick and a playful texture. The salmon skin and meat was tender, and the cream cheese did not overpower the merry mix of flavors. A sure fire way to start the night.

Hire Katsu, P275 (+service charge)

Famed for its katsu dishes, we were much obliged to order the Hire (pork tenderloin) Katsu. Crispy on the outside, yet the meat was tender and flavorful on the inside. However, it pales much in comparison to the specialized version of Yabu. But, as I mentioned above, Yabu clearly and solely specializes on katsu dishes, and you should expect it to be the best. Katsu, on the other hand, still does not disappoint with its own version, while offering many more options on their menu. Served with a generous siding of cabbage and cucumber, the dish was cleverly arranged and the size commensurate with the price. I still enjoyed this dish but I couldn't finish it all up, so I brought the rest home. It tasted great even the following day.

Tori No Teriyaki, P255 (+service charge)

Just to get a slight hint of how their grilled (yakitori) dishes taste like, we opted for the chicken teriyaki. And this ranks high up there on my all-time best chicken teriyaki dish (number one of course, is still the Little Rio version). Perfectly grilled with the crisp, smokey skin, with the meat underneath tender and juicy. The sweet-salty teriyaki sauce amps up the flavor, with liberal amounts draping the lovely chicken pieces. Served with sidings of grilled carrots, asparagus tops, and small potatoes, this alone is testament to what I was telling you about. There was more to Katsu than just its namesake.

Ebi Tempura, P395 (+service charge)

Of course, the ubiquitous shrimp tempura was not absent that night. I don't recall if this was available as a 3-piece set, but the 5-piece set was adequately sized. There was nothing fancy with the tempura though. The breading was light yet crunchy, and the shrimp was tender and fresh. My only reservation was that the size of the shrimp itself seemed incongruous to the price. At more than 400 bucks (with service charge), I knew I could find bigger tempura at other joints, for a lesser price. Still, the ambiance of Katsu quelled my reservations, as I still thoroughly enjoyed the tempura.

Katsu deserves praise for not sticking to just a single specialty. In spite of its misleading name, its menu offers a mix of flavors, while getting it right on their katsu dishes, of course. Despite its darker exteriors, the staff was amiable. They even offered to store the cake we brought, and were sensitive enough to dim the lights when we lit the candles. Needless to say, the staff took our pictures without apprehension. For such commendable service and an even more congenial ambiance, the prices are definitely acceptable and reasonable. Not to mention, the food was delectable and cleverly crafted. Notwithstanding its location among the bars and pubs (I believe its upper deck is also a bar), Katsu is a shining gem. An unmistakable choice for any special night.