Kenji Tei: Revisited, Redeemed

Some restaurants are just hard to forget, especially when they are close to your heart.  Never mind the change in venue, never mind the escalation of prices, never mind the tweaking of the menu.  When you know the food is still good, it's difficult to resist the temptation to pay them another visit.

Despite my previous rants about Kenji Tei (see here) and its inevitable changes, the mere knowledge at the back of my mind that they still serve one of the best Japanese comfort food is enough to entice me to choose Kenji Tei for a quick lunch at a snap of a finger.  Especially when it's past lunch time and my stomach had been grumbling for more than an hour.  The mere sight of their white and red signage was enough to raise my white flag of surrender.  Images of tempura soon wallow in my mind.

I missed you.

Kenji Tei has found a home on its lofty perch in Greenbelt 5, going toe to toe with the other classy restaurants here.  Easily fully occupied during any lunch or dinner time on any given day, its move to a high-end mall has done it wonders.  With a chic interior, a nice view of the Greenbelt garden below, and hip vibe, Kenji Tei is one of the sought after ramen places in town.  However, I still miss its homey feel that it used to exude back when it was cozily located in BF.

A happier home.

Still wary of the deconstruction of their Gyudon, I chose to avoid ordering it so as not to disappoint my day.  Instead, I wanted to sample my previous favorites which I raved about before, even with the current heftier price tags.  I wanted to see if they maintained the quality and taste of their best-sellers, enough to bring back my happy memories of the better days of Kenji Tei.

Cheese Gyoza, P198 (+10% service charge)

Always a fire starter, the Cheese Gyoza is the best way to jump start your lunch.  Some like their gyoza lightly fried with some parts of the skin soft.  But Kenji Tei does it differently, and has always done so consistently since its BF days.  The gyoza is perfectly deep fried to a crisp, yet retaining its internal softness once you bite into it.  Fully stuffed with pork meat blended with divine cheese, the mixture is magical.  Addictive in every bite, the spicy mayo dip amps up the explosion of taste dancing around on your tongue.  Perfect either as stand alone or a companion to your rice or ramen, the cheese gyoza is a best seller as evidenced by the fact that this was the last order left for that day.  Lucky us!

Crispy Chicken Teriyaki, P228 (+10% service charge)

One of the best things to ever happen to chicken, Kenji Tei delivers a unique twist to an old-time favorite.  With each bite, I distinctly remember my first moment with this inventive creation.  Only one other crispy chicken teriyaki could stand up to Kenji Tei (the Little Rio version).  Each morsel consists of a thin crispy chicken skin enveloping the succulent and tender meat within.  But the fun doesn't end there.  The teriyaki sauce is a merry mix of sweet and salty, necessitating a cup of rice as the perfect partner.  Best consumed immediately, it's comforting to realize that the quality of this dish has been maintained immaculately.

Gohan, P68 (+10% service charge)

Of course, a Japanese meal will never be complete without a serving of tempura.  My fondest memory of Kenji Tei was back then when we were served one of the largest prawn tempura I had ever seen.  My eyes popped out of their sockets.  And so, here I was again waiting anxiously for our order of tempura, hoping it would not disappoint.

Ebi Tempura (5 pcs), P368 (+10% service charge)

At first glance, it was a sight to behold.  Each piece seemed large, but the breading was flowery and could have been an illusion.  The coating was crunchy and adequate, neither too thin nor too thick.  Sadly though, the prawns within were ordinarily sized.  These paled in comparison to those I previously had in other joints, and even during Kenji Tei's better days.  Nevertheless, the prawns were fresh and sweet, juicy and tender with each bite.  The bigger letdown however was the price tag.  I used to enjoy their tempura for just under 300 bucks for the 5 piece set.  Now I still believe it's overpriced at more than 300 pesos for these normal sized prawns.  For the same price tag I could grab a 5 piece set with humongous black tiger prawns at another shop.  Still, Kenji Tei remains commendable for preserving the quality of its tempura despite upping the prices.

My revisit at Kenji Tei was reassuring and redeeming.  Their best sellers retained their charm and addictive taste, keeping hungry diners hooked up for more.  On the other hand, my other personal favorites (gyudon and tempura) have fallen a notch lower, compounded by an increase in prices.  But there's just something about restaurants such as these that keep you coming back.  Maybe it's the magic of first love, or the fondness of my memories.  One thing for sure though, is that whenever I would be in Greenbelt, Kenji Tei should be the easiest choice for my Japanese quick fix.

Jones

Kenji Tei Ramen House

3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5

Legazpi Street, Legazpi Village

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/kenjitei

The Hidden Gem: Yaku

There are a number of reasons why some restaurants remain relatively unknown.  For some, it is by choice, to perpetuate the public's curiosity and add an adventurous charm.  For others, it's just a bad location.  In the case of Yaku, it's a mix of both.

Remaining in the business for ten years now, it is remarkable how Yaku has kept itself under the radar of both foodies and the common hungry diner.  With nary an advertisement to make itself prominent, it still has maintained a loyal following.  Blame it on Feng Shui, some would say, since the first thing you notice as you finally discover where it is on the third floor, is that large silver column obscuring its facade.  It supposedly blocks the good vibes and blessings.  Blame it on the building: nobody goes to Podium to stay there for even an hour.  People just pass through going to Megamall.  At least I do.  Or blame it on the name: one wrong letter on Google Search and you end up browsing a katsu place instead.  A very famous one too.  Heck, even the word "yaku" in the bastardized vernacular means "don't want".  Go figure.

Whether by intent or by accident, Yaku has managed to instill an air of interest, a worthy reputation by word of mouth.  And I finally got to see for myself.

Indeed, Yaku is difficult to spot for those who aren't actually looking for it.  Sandwiched by a Chinese restaurant and a toy store, the tall silver column conceals its entrance.  Only a lonely menu card out front gives any indication that you're at the right place.  Inside though, is a totally different matter.  The place exudes a peaceful vibe, blending  rough stone fixtures and modern lighting into an indoor Zen garden.  In fact, Yaku's spot is envious.  The glass window panels provides ample view of the tall buidlings of Ortigas and the busy streets below, like a swanky hotel fine dine.

Concrete slabs and panels and a few bamboo shoots decorate this indoor Zen garden.

Tradition meets modern with its simple lighting on a bare ceiling background.

For the uninformed, Yaku started out as a dedicated yakitori grilling spot, hence its name.  Through the years though, clamor for a wider Japanese menu led to its expansion.  And the rest is history.  We were not too crazy for yakitori types, but we were here to sample their Japanese offerings overall.  The menu book was tattered and torn, another encouraging sign that this was  a frequented place.  After picking our orders, we could not help but notice their unique call buttons for the wait staff.  An ingenious method, a definite indication of good service.

Press button for tempura.  Now that's a button I'd love.

Straightforward menu, easy to choose, easy to love.

Can I have a cup of rice with this?

It would be a travesty not to sample their grilled specialties.  But we wanted room for a lot more, so we picked just one.  And it was the perfect choice.

Kawa, P69 (+10% service charge)

Three sticks of chicken skin perfectly grilled to a light crisp, the Kawa was sinfully addicting.  Each piece was crunchy like chicharon, yet with a hint of a typical fatty and smokey grilled taste.  A testament how Yaku has perfected its grilling technique and thus made its name as a grilling station.

Aspara Bacon, P109 (+10% service charge)

Another grilled favorite, the Aspara Bacon was a sure-fire hit.  These asparagus stalks were lightly charred and drizzled with a special marinade, wrapped lovingly in strips of heavenly bacon.  There was the familiar smokey taste, even penetrating the usually resistant asparagus.  The bacon was savory and chewy but not tough.  Still, the stalks looked thin and shabby, and I've tried stouter ones in other places.  Nevertheless, the grilled taste is so distinct and prominent that I have to coin the term, "the Yaku taste" in all my blog posts from here on.

Spicy Shake Maki, P145 (+10% service charge)

Yaku also offers a collection of maki and sushi / sashimi, to round up the Japanese menu.  But don't get too excited though.  The Spicy Shake (Salmon) Maki consisted of 6 rolls of fresh pink salmon showered in spices.  The rolls were flavorful and filling, but there was nothing spectacular in both taste and presentation.  A bit ho-hum but still a good choice for those craving for rolls.  I wonder if their other maki selections were as ordinary as this.  

Gyudon, P199 (+10% service charge)

I couldn't pass up on the Gyudon, my ultimate comfort food.  The Yaku version was simple yet savory.  Each slice of beef was tender and juicy, although a bit on the leaner side. I usually preferred slices that had a sliver of fat or tendon.  Curiously, the beef also had a hint of the Yaku grill taste, which was a good perk-up.  The mirin sauce hit all the right notes, neither too sweet nor salty.  The onion slices offered a contrast in texture and a hint of zest.  Missing in action though were the shitake mushrooms that would have added a bolder quality to the dish.  A serving of fresh egg yolk though made my day, since I missed mixing up the whole concoction into glutinous chunks of meat and rice.  Happily, the serving was just right for a very reasonable price, in fact, one of the most affordable yet better tasting Gyudon in the metro.  

Chicken Teriyaki, P189 (+10% service charge)

A staple of any Japanese meal, the Chicken Teriyaki was sweet and succulent.  Each slice was tender and superbly grilled with hints of charred skin.  Yet again, the Yaku grill taste was bursting forth in each bite.  Although I have tried more adventurous and bold versions of this classic, this version stayed true to its familiar taste.  Nothing really extraordinary but good and filing nonetheless.  And a steal at less than 200 bucks.

Beef Yakiniku, P215 (+10% service charge)

As if we didn't have enough of grilled dishes yet, we still picked yet another one.  The Beef Yakiniku was similarly grilled impeccably, again exuding that now familiar smokey taste.  Each morsel was  tender and easy to chew, although it was not typical of the cubed slices of other yakiniku joints.  The taste was almost similar to my Gyudon, and ordering this might have been redundant.  Still, for meat lovers, the Beef Yakiniku is an easy pick.

Ebi Tempura, P249 (+10% service charge)

Rounding up our Japanese feast of course is the ubiquitous Ebi Tempura.  These amazing prawns were huge and plump, lovingly covered in a thin crispy and crunchy breading.  I love tempura breading that bursts like a flowery and spiky explosion, as it often heralds a delicious secret within.  And that's exactly what it is here at Yaku.  The prawns are big and fat, juicy and sweet, as if oozing with the flavors of the sea.  Four pieces for roughly 250 bucks?  It's definitely a steal, a well-kept secret.  I now have another Ebi Tempura ranked up there with the likes of Jozu-Kin.

Another happy customer.

Yaku has stood the test of time.  It has proven that you don't always need a good location to reap the rewards.  You don't even need to advertise or promote a lot just to attract hungry customers.  All it takes is good food, fresh ingredients, and heartwarming service.  Despite some of their offerings just bordering on average, nonetheless the grilled dishes are critically acclaimed, and the tempura one of the best.  A hidden gem in a posh mall, Yaku seems blithe in its rightful podium among its more well-known competitors, remaining oblivious yet consistent in offering great tasting and affordable Japanese food.

Jones

Yaku Japanese Grill

3rd Level, The Podium

ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center

Mandaluyong City

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Yaku-japanese-grill/201990269950862

  

Ginza Bairin: The New "Old" Kid On the Block

There are always two sides to the coin: some argue that the arrival of foreign food franchises dampens the enthusiasm of locally established food fare.  On the other hand, it cannot be discounted that we could finally sample the taste and experience the higher quality of imported brands.  Whatever it is, inside my stomach, it's all the same.

But not all are truly the same.  The katsu craze has ravaged the country, with the biggest player cropping up branches like mushrooms.  It has even stimulated the birth of smaller shops that offer good katsu, without the insane queues and fully booked nights.  And then arrives two heavyweights straight from the land of the rising sun.  And the war has just begun.

I'm dreaming...

It did not take long before one of the original creators of the katsu finally came to our shores to stamp its own class.  Ginza Bairin has been churning out these delightful chops even before the Japs had ideas of Asian conquest.  This time around, its a culinary conquest, a World War III on the katsu battleground.

Still on its soft opening, Ginza Bairin has already made the news among the local food blog scene.  It wasn't surprising then that the place was packed even on a rainy Saturday lunch.  Located loftily in the swanky new Glorietta 2 wing, its doors resemble an entrance to a temple.  I wonder if this is the current architectural trend for restaurants.

Enter the dragon.

The place is quite small for a shop that's expecting a deluge of customers.  Nevertheless, the interiors are well-lit and upbeat, with its modern minimalist design and fixtures a pleasing sight to behold.

Disco balls.

The menu book almost seemed like a chic coffee table book, colorful and glossy, with fluent descriptions of what to expect.  It was tempting to bring this home altogether.

Class of '27 Photo Album.

Everything looked delectable.  But I wanted to compare their katsu with that of the local competitor, so I picked what I had before.  She opted again for seafood fare.  While waiting for our orders, I noticed the same mortar and pestle set-up for preparing the special dipping sauce.  I read somewhere that Ginza Bairin in other countries don't have this set-up, but Filipinos have grown accustomed to it, so they placed it here.  Anyway, it's a good past time while waiting for the food.

Step one: wipe your hands with the moist towelette.

Step two: grind the sesame seeds with all your strength.  Anger is advised.

Step three: open the pot containing the sauce.

Step four: pour the wonderful sauce.

Finished product. Success!

The dishes here come in sets, complete with unlimited Japanese gohan and shredded cabbage.  Hell even the miso soup and sliced pineapples are unlimited.  Gluttons rejoice!

Kurobuta Rosu Katsu Set, P595 (+10% service charge)

By now, every one knows that Kurobuta means bad-ass.  Bad-ass Berkshire black pig deep-fried to perfection.  At first sight, the serving size was a tad smaller than that of Yabu.  Indeed, at Yabu you could choose a heavier portion.  At Ginza Bairin, you have no choice but to settle for this.  But that doesn't mean it's not good.

The goodness within.

The outer shell of panko was perfectly executed: crisp but not painful to the palate.  The meat inside was firm and chunky, yet tender enough to easily ruminate on.  However, it lacked the succulent juiciness that I had first encountered at Yabu.  Moreover, I was left craving for a sliver of fat in each slice, which adds the guilty pleasure I want from a bad-ass pig.  Nevertheless, the dish was surprisingly filling, as I was left with two slices by the time I called it quits.  

The reason for the quick white flag of surrender?  The cabbage.  Strangely, these oft ignored side dish at any katsu place took the center stage.  The secret was in the sesame sauce inconspicuously sitting beside the katsu sauce pot.  There was a uniquely delicious savory taste in this sauce, such that we emptied half a bottle just between the two of us.  I have never eaten so much cabbage in one sitting in my entire life, I felt I was a goat.  I wanted to bring home the whole bottle to try it out on other dishes.  It might even taste great with the katsu!

Prawn Fry Set, P395 (+10% service charge)

These were not your ordinary puny prawns.  These were giant black tiger prawns coated with the same breading, and deep fried to a crisp you could eat them shell and all.  She figured two pieces were not enough, so an extra piece was called for.

Extra piece of Ebi Katsu, P150

It's gratifying that their menu allows such flexibility.  There are also mixed katsu sets, but you could mix and match your own with the a la carte selections.  The black tiger prawns were crunchy outside, while the meat was fresh and tender and succulent.  I got a kick sucking out the brains on each of the prawn heads.  Every nook and cranny was delectable. 

Iced Tea, P75 (+10% service charge)

All these delights needed a refreshing douse of cold drink, and the Iced Tea was the perfect companion.  Cool and subtly sweet with a hint of fresh tea leaves, you can never go wrong with this.

Another thumbs up approval.

Barely a month old in operation, Ginza Bairin has already gained a loyal crowd of followers and instilled anxiety on its main competitor.  There are a few items in their menu that Yabu does not have, and I have read that their Katsudon was other-worldly.  Nevertheless, Ginza Bairin lacks a few items too, notably the Soft-Shell Crab that was so utterly good.  

The arrival of this new "old" kid on the block heralds an era of an endless katsu war, its main armament of deeply rooted tradition in cooking perfection highlights its advantage.  The quality and freshness of its ingredients are unquestionable, the service likewise impeccable.  Only the palate can decide who the true champion of katsu will reign victorious.  Whoever it may be, the winners will always be us, the hungry diners.

Jones

Ginza Bairin

Glorietta 2 (along Palm Drive)

Makati City

https://www.facebook.com/GinzaBairin.PH