Yen Yen: From Hole-in-the-Wall to Casual Street Food
There is almost a dirty connotation with the term "street food". The mere mention of the two words conjures images of a wooden street cart being pushed around by a sweaty and grimy street vendor, complete with tall glass bottles with murky sauces, a sloppy stainless steel wok and recycled barbecue sticks. Clearly not for the faint of heart (or stomach).
But I adore street food, in the purest sense of the word. I remember my college days along the hidden back streets of the DLSU Manila campus, behind the Gokongwei Building, there was a popular push cart vendor who sells anything from the ordinary fish balls to a complete pork chop rice meal. Curiously, his loyal followers were a diverse mix: from conyo Lasallistas to geeky computer majors, to the average college student scraping the bottom of his allowance. I loved the pork chops there - it had a homey and greasy taste, just like how anybody's Mom used to cook.
This is street food. I kid you not.
Apparently, street food can be transferred out of the streets and into an actual restaurant setting. This has long been championed by Yen-Yen, a quaint nook that dishes out delicious Taiwanese street food fare. Its original branch was a virtual hole-in-the-wall: occupying an area barely the size of a regular classroom, and beside a messy and dirty auto repair shop. The only clue that what's inside was edible was the yellow signage that often misleads customers: "Taiwanese street food". I'm pretty sure quite a few would have imagined exotic fare like scorpions or sea horses and other stuff only consumed by the bizarre, say perhaps Andrew Zimmern.
But that did not deter me to try out their original branch. I have not regretted it since, and it was my little San Juan secret, a place I frequented whenever I wanted a quick and delectable meal. The menu was unique, the taste unfamiliar yet sumptuous, and the prices were (pardon the pun) dirt-cheap. Yen-Yen has since moved on to a brighter place, a larger area, and a more inviting vibe. A minor tweaking of the menu, a little modern decors here and there, and Yen-Yen is back in business.
The new menu is bright and colorful, with new exotic additions.
In our numerous visits in both their old and new branches, there were practically only 2 items that we regularly ordered. Blame us for the lack of adventure, yet these two items were off-the-charts delicious. Nevertheless, Yen-Yen is a full-board restaurant, complete with noodles, dimsum, and main courses, each with its own unique and exotic twist. It's just that we always preferred to order the dish that we came to know Yen-Yen for: the Taiwanese chops!
Pork Chop Rice, P170
Unlike any other pork chop, the Taiwanese version is relatively flatter and crunchier. I'm inclined to believe that the meat is pounded into a thinner cut, and then coated with a crunchy breading. The end-result is a tantalizing texture of soft, juicy meat within and a crispy outer skin. Nearly devoid of any fat trimming, it is indeed a healthier version of the cardiac pork chop common in our households and a sexier model of the Japanese katsu. The breading itself is spiked with secret spices, rendering a zesty appeal to an otherwise ordinary chop. The blend of favors doesn't end there, with a peculiar side dip that flirts between a tomato ketchup and sambal sauce. It's that dip that I'm most baffled - it has a tangy taste yet at the same time exudes a sweet-spicy feel. Whatever it is, it is the perfect complement to the pork chop. Available in a budget meal or a la carte, no visit to Yen-Yen will be justified without sampling their famous chops.
Chicken Chop Rice, P185
Long before milk tea shops had the bright idea of serving chicken chops, Yen Yen was already pioneering the trend. These chicken fillets were similarly prepared, flattened and then coated with that spicy and crisp breading. The Chicken Chops were perfectly deep fried, with the meat within fresh and juicy. Again, its that queer red sauce that amps up the flavor. If only I could grab a jar of that, it will make the world a better place. Budget meals come served with a hefty portion of rice and generous mixed chopped veggies, a certainly filling treat all for less than 200 bucks.
Spicy Wonton, P88
Among the myriad of dimsum treats Yen-Yen has to offer, it's the spicy wonton that always wins out for us. Served drenched in a bowl of chili chiu chow oil, these dimsum wraps are a meal in itself. Six plump pieces filled with ground meat and kuchay, and then drowned in a spicy oil. There's absolutely no way that we pass up on this on every visit. In fact, we even ordered a modified version, having the dumplings deep fried instead of steamed, and then drenching them in the same oil. Talk about flexibility.
Definitely, there are no tell-tale signs of street food aura within the new Yen-Yen branch. Yet Yen-Yen assures us that what they serve here is actually being served in the streets of Taiwan, even using the same cooking gear and methods to preserve authenticity. The taste speaks the truth, clearly divergent from the all too common MSG-infused Chinese restaurant fare. If Taiwanese street food was this good, I wonder how the actual restaurant food tastes like.
Yen-Yen has seamlessly bridged the gap between mainstream cooking and street food. With its new branch now more lively and earning a reputation among foodies and San Juan residents, it appears that the next step is expansion. I hope though they keep the prices reasonable (prices had increased when they made the big move to the newer location). Yen-Yen has successfully transformed hole-in-the-wall street food to a more casual experience.
Jones
Yen-Yen Taiwan Street Food
198 Wilson Street, corner P. Guevarra Street
San Juan City
Written by Jones
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