A Finer Take on Filipino Food: Pino Resto Bar


Foodies will agree that Filipino food is enjoying a renaissance of sorts.  All across the metro, restaurants with the tagline "modern Filipino cuisine" or "Filipino with a twist" allure diners with their interesting menu, promising a unique experience and an unforgettable taste.  But all these now seem redundant.  Restaurants simply twist the classic Pinoy recipes: deep fry the dinuguan, drench the lechon in sinigang soup, contort the poor hapless tilapia; and then you have your own perverted Filipino menu.

Nowadays, I prefer to patronize those joints that belong to the originators, those that lit the fire and started it all.  Because these put a premium on taste and satisfaction, and not just mesmerize would-be diners with catchy names and alluring versions of our Filipino food staples.  Pino Resto Bar is one such place.  Hidden away from the bustling jungle of the metro, long before it broke into mainstream, Pino was a by-word among the food bloggers.  Legend has it that there was a joint that served the blood-pumping bagnet in a very peculiar way.  Whatever it was, the mere mention of bagnet already caught my ears.  And off we went in search of this secret place.

And when we got there, there was nothing clandestine about Pino.  Parking was full and cars stretched all along Malingap Street.  Its ominous dark signage lured customers in, with its sister shop Pipino with its green signage almost screaming to us to avoid the cholesterol and go green instead.  But I was here to splurge on fats.  And I fell into temptation.

As I browsed through the menu, I pretended that I didn't have anything in mind already.  But everything on the set looked appetizing.  Notice how simple the descriptions were: crispy tenderloin tapsilog, wasabi onion rings, nilasing na adobong kambing, etc.  No overzealous jargon here.  Just plain good Pinoy food in a different way.

And so of course, I got the Kare-kareng Bagnet.  She was not too keen with kare-kare, so she ordered the bagoong version instead (as if to complement my order).  We agreed to get an appetizer just to nullify some of the fats we were about to ingest.


Crispy Calamares, P175 (+service charge)

Nothing beats the good old squid rings for a rousing start to a dinner. Crunchy and deep fried perfectly, the squid itself remains soft and tender.  The aoili dip only adds much to the equation.  A definite crowd-pleaser.  But, I could eat this all by myself.

Kare-kareng Bagnet, P255 (single serve; +service charge)

I couldn't wait to see the star of the show.  I could hardly resist digging in immediately while I took quick photos of the Kare-kareng Bagnet.  Three generous thick slabs of Bagnet, double-fried to crispy perfection, lying peacefully on top of thick kare-kare peanut sauce.  A few leaves of veggies to douse your guilt, and a proportioned cup of bagoong rice to seal the deal.  The perfect love team for your heart.  There was no question about the crunch of this bagnet, and the peanut sauce was your good old homey kare-kare.  The dish that launched a thousand ships.  And the fats that sank all the others.

Bagnet Binagoongan, P245 (+service charge)

As if to catapult our cholesterol levels, the Bagnet Binagoongan equaled, if not surpassed, the aforementioned Kare-Kare.  Deftly chopped crunchy piece of bagnet atop a bed of sweet-spicy shrimp paste, paired with white rice.  Another deadly 1-2 punch.  Just like its closely related relative, the Binagoongan did not disappoint with each crispy bite.  Perhaps my only complaint was that I would have preferred a true binagoongan style of cooking: the pork meat simmered in spicy shrimp paste (and not just bagoong from the bottle, I suspect).  Still, the dish delivered with a simple yet other-worldly taste.

Pino Flavored Beer (Strawberry), P95 (right) and Orange Juice

In an attempt to dilute some of the fats, I sampled the strawberry flavored beer.  It was quite a hit for me, as the bitter natural taste of beer was nearly neutralized by the sweet sour strawberry flavor.  

There simply is no question about the incredible creativity of the people behind Pino.  Perusing through the menu, nothing else seemed redundant.  In fact, soon after Pino was making waves, a lot of other shops attempted to imitate Pino's own unique style.  However, Pino stands out because their versions actually taste great and not just look great on the menu and pictures.  Prices are easy on the pocket and worth the breath-taking experience.  Pino was once hard to find, nestled along a residential street, but it has broken mainstream lately with its new branch at Jupiter Street.  Those who prefer a more quiet aura should visit their main branch in QC.  I would definitely go back and try the other stuff on their menu.  On second thought, the bagnet beckons again.


Pino Resto Bar
39 Malingap Street. Teachers Village
Quezon City




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Of Better Days: Kenji Tei Ramen House


A long long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away... There was once a small Japanese noodle house hidden among the countless establishments along Aguirre Avenue in BF Homes.  Quiet and unassuming, it had its loyal followers who almost swore to death in secrecy, never to divulge this wonderful paradise.  Well, for that matter, I had that kind of mentality anyway. And so, these photos of a by-gone era sat on my desktop folder for more than a year.  Until finally the secret was no more, with Kenji Tei moving on to greener pastures and expanding its horizons.

Sadly, some die-hard fans, like me, felt abandoned and betrayed.  You see, there was a time when Kenji Tei was that hole-in-the-wall, budget-friendly, neighborhood Japanese restaurant, an escape from the tasteless commercialism of other joints.  Let me muse about its long gone age of glory.

Back then, Kenji Tei was really cramped: it could only comfortably sit around 15 people. But it was cozy, with tall glass panes and bright lights.  Its facade was tempting and inviting.  Its interior was simple, and the food was the star.  

The menu was simple. Better yet, affordable.

On any usual visit at a Japanese restaurant, I always order my beloved favorite, the sacred dish, the beef Gyudon.  We then ordered a slew of other tasty treats.




Gyudon, (then around P200-225; now P296)

The gyudon was simply one of the best I have ever tasted.  And that says a lot.  The bowl was nearly filled to the brim.  Each slice of beef was tender and succulent, with just the right amount of fat to tease the palate and not hurt your arteries.  The radish and sliced onion did more than garnish, it balanced the sweet, salty taste of the sauce with its touch of spice and zest.  There were a few traces of shitake in the mix, but I would have preferred more.  Glaringly lacking however was the raw egg, but I believe I could have ordered it to be added. But the presentation was absolutely gorgeous that the raw egg couldn't add any more superlatives to this dish.  It was a sight to behold.

Flash forward to a more recent visit at Kenji Tei's newer location in Greenbelt 5.  Amidst the beauty and grandeur of their newer branch, I expected my order of gyudon to deliver.  Not just in the presentation, but of course in the taste.  To my utter disappointment, here is what welcomed me back:

Who put ants on my bowl of rice?

The sacred gyudon: dismantled and dismembered

It doesn't take a food genius to choose which version of the gyudon looked more inviting.  And it's not even my camera.  It was outright sacrilege to dismantle the gyudon this way.  I have never encountered such a travesty!  In my purist opinion, the gyudon is supposed to be eaten all together in one bowl, the sauce draping the wonderful white rice; the beef dripping its flavor onto the wholeness of the dish.  Not in this defiling way.  My sacred gyudon reduced to the level of what appears to be a hot plate.  All this with a hefty price increase, further adding insult to injury.  

Back to the past.  Kenji Tei dished out one of its best-sellers, and still is. The spicy cheese gyoza.  A small package packing a lot of punch.


Cheese Gyoza, (then P100-120, now P198)

Each piece was generously packed with ground pork and lovely cheese.  The spicy mayo dip was the perfect partner to this mouth-watering appetizer.  A meal in itself, I used to see some people ordering just this to-go.  A testament to this fabulous creation.  What was once a steal at just above a hundred bucks, is now overpriced at almost twice that.  I would still order this of course.  That's how good it is.



Crispy Chicken Teriyaki (then around P180-200, now P228)

Another sublime dish, the Crispy Chicken Teriyaki was a sure winner.  The teriyaki sauce embraced each piece of chicken fried to a juicy crisp.  The sauce was perfect, not too sweet, with a hint of salt.  There was once a time when BF Homes was the home of the crispy chicken teriyaki, with Little Rio's own creation ruling the west, and Kenji Tei's masterpiece lording over the east.  But that was a golden age long gone.  I haven't tried out the teriyaki again, but I fervently hope that it would still be its old self: pure bliss.


Ebi Tempura, 5 pcs. (then P220-250, now P368!)

Perhaps, one of the bigger (pun intended) reasons why I chose not to divulge this previous secret was Kenji Tei's stunning serving of the Ebi Tempura.  Each large piece of tiger prawn was lightly but lovingly dressed in the crunchy tempura batter, enticing one to immediately partake of this dish.  And when I say large, I mean REALLY large.  This was one of the biggest servings of tempura I have ever encountered, if not the biggest.  And it's not just the breading.  The shrimp was huge and fresh and succulent.  As I had my first bite, I vowed selfishly never to share this secret.  

But Kenji Tei was destined to leave its comfortable nook for the greener pastures of the Ayala malls, the first in Greenbelt 5 and the other in ATC.  And with its transfer was the inevitable escalation of prices.  (Notice that I quoted the previous prices in range, I could only roughly remember the actual previous ones.  But I'm pretty sure the prices increased by at least P50-P60 per dish).  Of course, its newly baptized followers would never complain about the price increase.  But to those who worshiped Kenji Tei in its infancy, it was sheer betrayal. What used to be an affordable Japanese indulgence was now a proud superstar.  Don't get me wrong, I still love Kenji Tei, despite its violation of my sacred gyudon.  But with its heftier price tags, its disappointing transformation of the gyudon, and now longer queues, I sadly might search for another.  One that will stand for what Kenji Tei used to deliver among the BF homies.

Feel free to chastise me for my bitter critique of Kenji Tei.  But this is the sad truth of establishments going for bigger markets.  I love Kenji Tei, and will forever be loyal to it.  Ramen enthusiasts heap praises on its new branches (I am not a ramen fan), and I believe it should be one of the best ramen houses.  But, I still hope Kenji Tei will not forget its other masterpieces, the gyudon, for one, and the chicken teriyaki, the other.  Here's hoping that someday, prices would be more reasonable (if not back to previous levels), and that Kenji Tei will return to its days of legendary lore.  For those loyal fans.


Kenji Tei Ramen House
Now with two branches:
3rd Level, Greenbelt 5 AND Alabang Town Center (near the cinemas)




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Wingin' It at B. Wings


I hate Fridays.  No, not the resto.  I hate Fridays because of a single reason: traffic!  It's quite a spectacle here in the Philippines whenever the week hits Friday, most of the metro's main thoroughfares become one humongous parking lot.  So, on a usual Metro Manila Friday, we braved the traffic of C5 (oh SM Aura, what a wonderful location you have) to seek that one comfort food to soothe our week.

Everyone has their own comfort food.  I have quite a handful, but nothing quite hits the spot right on than a crunchy and tangy piece of buffalo wing.  Countless joints specializing on buffalo wings have sprouted all across the metro, each branding its own unique twist.  I chanced upon B. Wings when we curiously tried out the food truck bazaar Cucina Andare at the Glorietta.  This small stall was abuzz with life, and their chicken wings was shouting with flavor.  No wonder it was, and remains to be, one of the best-sellers at Cucina Andare.  Soon thereafter, I happily discovered that B. Wings had an actual restaurant along the back-streets of Katipunan.  Armed with my Google Map, I searched for the elusive home of one my favorite comfort foods, perfect for this infuriating traffic.

The B. Wings main branch wasn't too hard to find, but their shop was unassuming and simple.  No big signages, no screaming advertisements.  Just an air-conditioned nook, with mundane black chairs and boring stainless steel tables.  No matter, the wings was the star of the show anyway.  Settling down on our seats, we quickly ordered half-a-pound of one of our favorite flavors, the Black Mamba.  For the other half, we opted for a stronger punch with a medium spice Original Buffalo Wings.



Black Mamba (left) and Medium Spice Original Buffalo Wings (right)
P230 (1/2 lb. each flavor, total of 1 lb)

I know the pieces look small, and I agree.  Other buffalo joints would serve larger portions (at a heftier price of course), but size isn't all that matters.  In fact, you'd be surprised that a half pound is enough for the average sized Pinoy.  We already knew what to expect with the Black Mamba, having tried it at Cucina Andare.  Each wing was oozing with a delectable mix of flavors, a triad of sweet, sour, and spicy.  The glistening brown glaze was packed with a distinct taste, it was hard to distinguish what was in the concoction.  Not to mention, the wings were perfectly deep-fried to a crisp, I nibbled it down to bone.  No wastage whatsoever.

The medium spice Original Buffalo Wings supposedly had a hint of cheese flavor, but I only got wind of it at the bottom of the plate.  Nevertheless, the spice level was just right to leave a tingling and burning sensation on your tongue and lips that lingers and tickles your taste buds, tempting you to devour piece after piece.  Don't chide me for not going for the highest spice level.  Believe me, medium is already hot (and I eat green chilies, so go figure), but not comparable to the Nuclear level of Buffalo's Wings and Things (that was a painful experience).  Again, each wing was impeccably fried, with the meat beneath remaining juicy and tender.  Each order of a pound of wings comes with a single dip, but the flavor of the wings itself was already prominent.  We hardly noticed the garlic aioli dip.  Both flavors should have gone well with rice, but I was watching my weight so I skipped the carbs.

On second thought, my body needs a few calories from carbs.  So I ordered an extra side of french fries.


French Fries, P40

Crisscross-cut potato fries was a good combination and neutralizer for the overpowering flavors of the wings.  These aren't your fast food lard fries either.  My only complaint was I hope they served a larger portion, as you can't stop eating these with the wings.




All these wonderful flavors for just under 300 bucks?? A definite steal.  I won't ever go to Chili's or Friday's for my buffalo wing fix, that's for sure.  B. Wings also offers value meals (wings + rice, even bagnet + rice!!) that are easy on the pocket and heavy on the flavor.  Some buffalo wing joints are also too flashy and expensive, but fall short of flavor.  B. Wings, on the other hand, hits the mark with flying colors.  It's small wonder why they often sell out in Cucina Andare (and Levante in Eastwood).  Cooking times at these bazaars often exceed 30 minutes because of the really long queues!  So, if you're in the QC area, better troop to their main branch instead for a more relaxing dine-in.  Without the sweat and smoke of bazaars.  Just you and your comfort food.


B.Wings
Loyola Heights Condominium
Esteban Abada Street, Loyola Heights, QC




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Kicking and Screaming: Shifu Style!

Chinese food often becomes too monotonous.  Sweet and sour here, dimsum there, add a mix of noodles, and voila: any shop can lay its claim as a Chinese resto.  Many times though, the overpowering MSG and the thick cornstarch leaves the palate numb.  Some times however, a true Chinese restaurant can dish out authentic tasting fare.

Shifu Master's Kitchen is a virtual hole-in-the-wall: situated along the busy Gilmore-Granada thoroughfare, its small spot challenges the more veteran Mien-San just a few feet away.  Again, I discovered Shifu through foodie blogs and I quickly pounced on a voucher on one of those group buying sites.  The place was quaint, small but enough to seat 15 people at the most.  It was like a carinderia in Binondo, only with parking space and air-conditioning.  How authentic can you get?



Pork Siomai, P45

At first, we couldn't find the dimsum on their menu.  To our surprise, it was written on a white board just above the counter.  We went traditional with our choice of pork siomai.  There was no regret.  Each piece was tightly packed with pork meat!  No starch or flour fillers here, just true pork mixed with a hint of fat for added flavor and black mushrooms for that contrast in texture.  I could eat this with a cup of rice, but I wanted to feast on my favorite Chinese food staple next.


Lechon Macau Rice, P145

No visit of mine would be complete without sampling Shifu's version of my favorite sinful pleasure: Lechon Macau!  And the master did not disappoint.  A half slab of crispy pork liempo fried to perfection.  The skin was flawlessly crunchy, while the meat itself was tender and oozing with cholesterol.  It's for days like these that cholesterol medications were created.  Chuck out that diet plan through the window for now, and enjoy this cardiac delight. Served with a leaf of pechay to simmer your guilt somehow, and a hefty portion of rice to complete your day.  For those who desire more pain in the future, order this ala-carte for a full-on attack on this crispy wonder.


Spinach with Crabmeat, P185

To lessen my guilt, I ordered a vegetable dish.  Lacking visual appeal, this dish however more than made up for it with its impressive taste.  The spinach was light and chewy, and the soup base just right in consistency.  The crabmeat was obviously manufactured, but I couldn't complain with the spinach taking center stage.  No traces of MSG here, as the flavor truly stood out.

Lomi, P155

On a soft drizzling night like this, a piping hot bowl of lomi was precisely fitting and appropriate.  And this was not a small bowl; the serving was good for 3 people with a huge appetite.  The saltiness of the soup was immaculate, and each strand of noodle was thick and firm.  Slurping is the way to go, to show your appreciation to the cook, of course.  And that's not all: each bowl was filled with slices of cabbage, thin pieces of pork, a few bits of shrimp and crab meat.  We added a dash of chili garlic sauce and the experience was sublime.  Perfect on a cold night.

Chinese fast food stalls are quite common, but hole-in-the-wall, authentic Chinese restaurants which offer affordable fare should be the preferred choice.  No MSG, no marketing lies, no bloated pictures, no silly excuses.  The word "shifu", if my Chinese lessons memory serves me well, means "old master".  Indeed, this venerable restaurant serves up the high kicks and spinning swipes like a true kung-fu master.


Shifu Master's Kitchen
58 Granada Street, 
Valencia, Quezon City




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Four Dirty Fingers Are Better Than Your Middle Finger

Long before I found the audacity to write my own food blog, a hot craze was sweeping the nation from north to south.  These winged creatures were taking the country by storm: from the invasion of BonChon to the local upstarts Chicken Charlie and Manang's Chicken.  All three offered basically the same concept: the double-fried technique, drizzle them in your top-secret sauce, toss in a cup of rice, and you're in the game.

No fuss, no frills. Nothing fancy. Until one day, while watching Pop Talk on TV, I found one secret that I was so reluctant to share (hence this delayed post).  This secret was so good that I would raise four dirty fingers to all three chicken champions.  4 Fingers Crispy Chicken was quietly hacking away at the competition, fighting for a coveted spot atop the chicken pedestal.  Tucked ostensibly inside the deep bowels of SM North Edsa, 4 Fingers attempts to bring its own brand of uniqueness. 

When one has tried the top 3 double-fried wonders, the palate often grows tired of the taste and too often they all tend to taste the same.  But this is where 4 Fingers delivers a brash attempt to stimulate your other senses.  We ordered two combo meals, and this was the delightful surprise.


Get those dirty fingers up!

Each meal came in a military-type tin box, which gives 4 Fingers its own distinct image.  Whenever I see a tin box now, I'm reminded of that sumptuous chicken meal!  But there's more than meets the eye.




Drumstick Rice Box (2 pcs), P129

My first reaction when I saw what was inside the box was, this was bigger!  Each drumstick seemed larger than the other chicken chains.  I immediately doubted that it might just be an illusion of the breading.  But as I took my first bite, I was wrong.  It was really big!  In addition, the sauce penetrated deep down to the juicy meat, rendering each bite a wonderful experience.  The same savory sauce was drizzled on my cup of rice, and that alone was heaven. (You know, of course, that Filipinos love to virtually drizzle whatever sauce there is on their cups of rice).  I had 2 complaints, however: the rice portion was a bit meager (come on, you're giving 2 lovely pieces of chicken and I have to contend with this portion of rice?).  And of course, even if missus and I ordered "hot", there wasn't even a remote presence of hot in there.  Maybe we were used to eating spicier wings (we could tolerate Buffalo's Nuclear), but it simply did not suffice.  IMHO, Chicken Charlie is the top spice, Bonchon is halfway (we always order double glaze of spice), and Manang's was all ditsy.  4 Fingers?  Well, maybe just below Bonchon.  Still, with all that pizazz going on with their presentation, I expected a heftier kick!


Chicken Rice Box, P119

If you adore wings more than the drumsticks, then you can opt for the chicken rice box which comes with 3 pieces of wings.  And this is where it gets tricky.  The wings seem a bit smaller, at first glance.  But the taste more than makes up for it, and there is still more meat in there than it actually looks.  Still, I would rather go for the 2 piece winner than the wings.  But, to each his own.


Iced Tea (small), P25

Drown each lovely bite with their own iced tea with a hint of raspberry or some sort.  A perfect combination to the powerful flavors of their glazed chicken.  Again, the paper cup was distinctly garbed in the 4 Finger fashion.  In fact, their store was distinct with its industrial New York vibe draped all over the walls, consistent in its aim to stand out among the chicken champions.

So, move over fellas.  There's a new chicken in town.  In fact, I believe 4 Fingers has opened another branch in Mall of Asia, and another one is coming soon at SM Aura.  Too bad for me, this little secret is out.  4 Fingers offers more than just chicken.  I would definitely come back for the other stuff: the chicken burgers and crispy calamari are definitely tempting.  What really stands out however, is the distinct flavor that penetrates inside the chicken meat, and the bigger serving size, and of course, the unique presentation.  So, if you're tired of the monotony of the other chicken shops, then join me in raising four dirty fingers instead of just one middle finger.


4 Fingers Crispy Chicken
Ground Floor, SM City North Edsa, Main Building
North Avenue, Quezon City
www.gimme4fingers.com


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Break down that darn gate! Songkran: The Thai Behind


Gates are the proverbial opening to a world beyond.  But closed gates are a hindrance, a nuisance, an insurmountable border.  I remember back in my high-school days, that gate along D. Tuazon Street was wide open, a short-cut to Aguirre Avenue and its greener pastures beyond (okay, at that time Hen-Lin was the only restaurant nearest to that corner).  Sadly, in years past, the gate was closed permanently with no other exit through (of course, there were two other exits at our sector).  I therefore had to go around just to reach those joints that were practically just behind our house!

And so, lazy that I am, I didn't really bother much about what goes on behind those walls.  Until I read about Songkran in another foodie blog.  This blog however, talked about its original Makati branch.  And I was quite amused that a branch sprung up just at the corner of D. Tuazon, beyond that Berlin Wall.  So one Sunday after church, the family finally decided to try this restaurant.

Nestled nicely among lush coconut trees, Songkran peeks curiously with its purple signage and a homey vibe.  Located just beside a store that sells Asian vases (I think they own this too), you can never go more Asian than this.  On that lazy Sunday noon, the place was virtually empty and we had it to ourselves.

I browsed through their menu and snappily ordered my favorite staples.  No Thai food experience would be complete without any order of spring rolls, fried or otherwise.  

Fried Spring Rolls, P125

These spring rolls are fun to eat, each packing a generous filling of sotanghon noodles and a sprinkle of ground meat, tucked carefully inside a crisp wrapper.  That sweet spicy sauce is a perfect partner to this appetizer, which in fact, masquerades as a main dish as well.  Five medium-sized pieces for just more than a hundred backs?  A certain steal.


Crispy Catfish with Mango Salad, P200

The Thai seafood version of our pinoy favorite adobo flakes, I discovered these bundles of joy while eating in another restaurant.  This flaky treat combines the crunchy texture of the fried catfish and the sour-y goodness of half-ripe mango, a perfect and addicting combination indeed.  I could eat a whole bowl of this, but I think it was a bit overpriced.  Still, you would definitely love sprinkling these flakes atop a bowl of jasmine rice.  Just like our adobo flakes.


Tom Yum Ta Lai, P250

Of course, if you go Thai, you have to go Tom Yum! This seafood version packed a lot of punch (believe me, I did not do the dish justice with my crappy phone camera).  Beneath the murky broth lies the bounty of the sea: fresh medium-sized prawns, succulent and tender squid, and a whole lot of other stuff. The spice level got our lunch kicking. (Although I did order for milder, in hesitant deference to my parents.  I requested instead for chili powder for my own sadistic satisfaction).  I always believed that Tom Yum was a notch higher than our Filipino sinigang (crucify me, my fellow Filipino loyalists), and Songkran delivered a sure-fire hit.  And for that price, this was good for up to 4 people.  A definite choice when dining with your buddies.


Green Chicken Curry, P270

I fell in love with Thai curry ever since my first bite.  So, it's always a staple whenever I visit a Thai restaurant.  At first look, one might be disappointed with the lack of viridian in the sauce.  No matter, the taste more than made up for its looks.  Coconut milk was distinctly present, along with the spice of the curry powder and the precarious slices of green chili (I ate those actually).  The chicken was good, soft and chewy.  My only complaint was the small serving size (I could finish this up alone) for that price.  But hey, drenching the jasmine rice with that curry sauce was heaven.

I had been hindered by that darn gate from discovering the Thai behind.  We even asked the waitress, in jest, if we could order by phone and then they could just throw the stuff over the fence! To our amusement, she said they do accept such unusual orders, and they would simply reach over the fence to deliver their delicious food!  One of these days, I guess.

Songkran is a budget-friendly, family type of restaurant that BF homies would love.  No need to endure the traffic going to ATC or Southmall.  Just drive along Aguirre and stumble upon this Thai paradise.  In my case, it's just a leap over the fence.  Or perhaps breaking down that gate.  Now, if only I could find my wire-cutters...



Songkran Thai Restaurant
Aguirre Avenue, corner D. Tuazon Street
BF Homes, Paranaque City





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The Reds are Taking Over

Who says joining the reds isn't fun?  In a unique twist, a relatively new, Commie-inspired Chinese restaurant changes the way we view Chinese cuisine.  It's fairly uncommon to find Sichuan and Hunan cuisine, but Komrad manages to bring forth another aspect of Chinese food.


Located at the Il Terrazo mall, which specializes in food, by the way (practically everything else gets booted out here), Komrad: Mao's Hunan and Sichuan Kitchen stands distinct with its fiery red markings and uniformly communal interior.



I wonder if Communist joints in China in the 50s were as classy as this

Despite the imposing facade, however, the look and feel is classy.  Numerous images of revolutionary Chinese dot the red walls, with an almost idolatrous altar of Mao himself right smack in the center of the restaurant. 
In loving memory of Mao.

Atrocities during the Cultural Revolution are documented in this section. Just kidding. 


But aside from the look, the other thing revolutionary here is of course, the food!  The menu is filled to the brim with things both familiar and curiously interesting.  Images are bright, colorful, and well-described.


Mao's Little Red Book. Full of insurgent food.

It took us at least 15 minutes to peruse the little red book.  Everything looked good!  Still, we had to pick a chosen few (because of our budget haha!).

Pork Dumplings, P125
+10% service charge

For starters, we got the pork dumplings.  Ubiquitous as it may seem, but this was really different.  Each piece was fat with pork meat, juicy with each bite.  The shredded green onion leeks offered a contrast, both visual and gustatory, to the otherwise common dish.  We didn't even need any sauce to complement this appetizer, but the chili sauce was a superb combination.


Sichuan Spicy Tendon and Crispy Pig's Ears Duet, P145
+10% service charge

A higher-end version of famous Filipino street fare, this duet was music to my ears!  Pig tendons drenched in Sichuan spicy sauce was perfectly tender and gooey at the same time, while the pig ears were crunchy with each bite, reminiscent of my favorite street food skewers. And at a reasonably affordable price, this dish stole the night!

Sea Bass in Blackbean Sauce, P85 per 100g
+10% service charge

A whole sea bass drenched in black bean sauce! The fish was oozing with flavor, fork-tender, and succulent.  The chili was an added kick to this well concocted dish!  This dish was also available for Lapu-Lapu, although more expensive at P165 per 100g.


Sauteed Kangkong with Squid, P198
+10% service charge

A side dish yet a viand in itself, this dish veered away from the common condiment of bagoong that used to go along with kangkong.  The chili sauce gives bold flavor to the crisp of the kangkong, while the squid is cooked tender.  Another winner for the night!


Tender Cumin Beef Slices, P288
+10% service charge

It's like Sichuan spicy short ribs.  Although this time, the beef takes center stage.  And cumin was generously added, kind of like spilt Milo powder.  This gives a distinct spice to the soft beef strips, and a little sour vinegar adds another dimension to the taste.  I personally loved this dish!

Sichuan Pata Tim, P535
+10% service charge

Ooops! Damn, this dish was so overwhelming that I forgot to take a pic! I immediately dug in on the succulent pork leg swimming in sweet spicy Sichuan sauce.  Although I had wanted it to be a tad crispier (like a Crispy Pata in sauce), the juicy fat was enough to put a smile on my face that day.  A bit pricey, but worth every piece.

Komrad was a different take on Chinese cooking, perhaps showing us that Chinese food isn't just pansit and chopsuey and fried chicken with kropeck.  Nope, it's a more complicated taste, a more complex art.  Sichuan cooking has captured my taste buds, all because it is almost entirely cooked in chili! I would definitely be coming back to try out the more exotic and interesting dishes here.  Although on the pricier side, it is definitely worth the adventure!



Komrad: Mao's Hunan and Sichuan Kitchen
Il Terrazo Mall
Tomas Morato Avenue, Quezon City






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Tonkatsuya: The Way of The Katsu Warrior

Many foodies would agree, myself included, that the Philippine food scene is in a state of massive upheaval.  Take the example of the Japanese restaurant in the metro: gone are the days of dark nooks tucked ostensibly in the shady streets of Manila, replete with barely visible windows and ominous red lanterns looming intimidatingly outside, as if gangs of Yakuza were holding clandestine meetings within.  Nowadays, Japanese joints are brightly lit, hip and urban, inviting massive throngs of hungry people and catering to particular dishes: be it yakiniku, ramen, or the popular katsu.

I once remembered that I didn't fancy katsu dishes not so long ago.  I was more fond of the heavenly gyudon, often paired with a serving of crisp tempura.  To me, katsu dishes were painful - literally.  Those bread crumbs smothering the meat were often too spiky and would leave my palate a harsh reminder.  But then again, it is the prevailing craze nowadays, so I tried to ride on the bandwagon.

Tonkatsuya was pretty famous, some say notorious, even before I found out about it through food blogs.  Makati people new about this shangri-la and often would swear it in secrecy.  Its notoriety was born out of the difficulty in looking for it, hence, a true shangri-la.  Compounding that was the equally scary stories of parking woes.  However, the clamor for another branch soon led to its  birth down south, just a stone's throw away from my home.  I didn't pass up the chance to try its much talked-about specialties. 

This branch in BF Homes was in stark contrast to its mother branch (which I have never visited, but only read about it in blogs).  It was a converted house, with the front yard providing ample parking space.  A big store sign was right out front, as if screaming to people to try this out.  And so, I hoped these were the only differences, and the taste should be pretty much similar to its original branch.

I was with my family, so each of us ordered a set meal, which actually makes up most of their menu.  Mind you, there are no sushi / sashimi dishes offered here, as they exclusively specialize in their beloved katsu. 

Thus said, I proceeded to order - a tempura set! Much as I wanted to try out the herikatsu set, I figured mom and dad would order it, so I beat them to the punch.  Anyway, I could always grab a piece of theirs.  As my order arrived, I almost instantly regretted my choice. 



Ebi Tempura Set, P340


At first glance, each piece of shrimp seemed bloated with too much batter.  Although five shrimps was a good number, I feared the batter concealed baby shrimps inside.  Thankfully, as I took my first bite, these were regular-sized shrimps.  However, the batter was really too thick it felt like eating a waffle-dog.  Adding insult to injury, the tempura sauce was too diluted and practically lacked flavor. I thought to myself, why did I even order a tempura dish in a katsu place??

But redemption beckoned.  Good thing I sampled the other dishes which saved my impression for this restaurant.  The Mixed Fry set consisted of 3 medium-sized slabs of herikatsu pork and a regular-sized ebi fry.  And my, it was a great combination, akin to a Japanese surf n' turf.




 Mixed Fry Set, P290

Each herikatsu piece was crisp and plump, yet tender on the inside.  However, it still paled in comparison to the other katsu (enter: Yabu), as it lacked the distinct juicy aspect of the latter.  The katsu sauce was quite good, but without the intricacy of Yabu.  A generous siding of cabbage with Japanese mayo complimented this hearty dish.  The prawn was regular-sized, fresh and succulent.  Drown these morsels with sips of your miso soup, and you're all set. For people who want to try out both pork and seafood at the same time (and eat with selfish picky buddies), this is an easy choice.

Mom was always fond of katsu, but this time she opted for the Chicken Katsu set.  I got to try out a few pieces, and the meat was a tad dry.  The crisp covering and the overflowing katsu sauce made up for it, but I expected more oomph from this dish.  


Chicken Katsu Set, P210

Overall, the katsu experience was quite fulfilling, save for the slight tempura disappointment.  (I should have known better).  And browsing through the menu, each item was reasonably priced for a specialty restaurant.  Comparisons with Yabu abound, with Yabu winning in virtually all aspects.  There are no ceremonious grinding of sesame here, no pageantry in presentation, and no pomp in flavor.  Tonkatsuya, however, may just be the next-best-thing.  The service is prompt, the dishes warm and well-cooked, the flavor satisfactory.  No fuss, no frills, just delivering what you expect for your money.  And for those simple reasons, I would definitely come back and try out their other katsu dishes (no more messing with tempura this time).  Not surprisingly, Tonkatsuya has its loyal disciples, both north and south of the border.  It owes its reputation to its strict, almost bushido-like code of cooking: it does its duty and delivers.



Tonkatsu-ya Restaurant
252 Aguirre Avenue
BF Homes Paranaque City

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